Oiluj

Thanks for the info. I thought I'd sen right side mirors in that style. Perhaps it was just wishful thinking... Bummer. Guess I'll have to consider other options...

I think they were factory stock on some 260 & 280Z's. I'm thinking a pair of these might look "cleaner" than the MSA black pearl repros. Do you know if they are still available? Any issues installing these mirrors on a 240? Thanks, Julio

I'm changing the interior to black & charcoal. Yes, it "IS" blasphemy, but that's what I had on my previous 240 and I really liked it... That's why I'm selling the left-over red parts. I've got both red door panels in very good shape and the interior plastic panels in good shape, (with the exception of one quarter window panel that has some cracks). Also have one seat cover in good condition, (not perfect, but useable). Could be used as a replacement if someone needs only one. I have to figure out an asking prices for these parts. Am planning to post them here first, then on eBay.

I have original red interior panels I'll be selling soon. Most in good condition, one of the quarter window panels has a few cracks.

McMaster-Carr p/n 4810T192 1/4" BSPT Hex Head Plug, 304 S. Steel - $2.10 ea or if you prefer McMaster-Carr p/n 4810T182 1/4" BSPT Square Head Plug, 304 S. Steel - $2.22 ea If you go to the McMaster-Carr website, type in the p/n in the upper box for the catalog page with pictures.

Check your gauge out on another engine to verify it's not reading low.

Where was this car when I was looking! Looks pretty nice. As bkelly indicated, I'd be talking to you if I wasn't in the middle of doing one already... For selling to a non-local buyer, try to look at the car as if you were a non-local buyer. What questions would you ask? I think some statements relating the non-perfect items such as the dash cover, usual dents in the bottom of the front frame rails, battery area, etc will help reduce buyer questions. Post info on engine & drive train condition, indicating any fluid leaks, (or lack of leaks), the condition of brakes, tires, etc. Have some close-up pics of the rust prone areas: quarter panels, dog legs, front floor boards, spare well and hatch deck. Indicate when the car was last painted, interior refreshed, and any details of what was done. Also indicate total miles on rebuild of engine, if applicable. The more detailed information you provide, the fewer questions you will get. I agree that I'd try to sell first to a site member, because they know what they are looking at and what is a reasonable value for the car. If that doesn't work, then I'd try your local Craig's List and eBay. I've sold a motorcycle on eBay and sold cars on Craig's list. I had no problem with eBay, but did not have the same experience as in bkelly's post above. I tried to eliminate potential issues by being VERY clear about shipping and escrow requirements for non-local buyers. I also set a "firm" minimum price. From my listing: "I will not accept offers below the asking price, so don't waste your time and mine with a lower offer". Sometimes though, no matter what you do, you get an a-hole as bkelly described. It's the luck of the draw... Good luck with selling the car. I expect she will sell fast.

Montanagrl, You are in Santa Clara? Perhaps we could orgnaize a peninsula Z rendevous with other local 240/260/280 owners. (after my car's done this fall).

I was in a hurry when I posting as the wife wanted to leave, and was trying to keep it short. Yes, not "true" libre's, but as the listing said, "almost identical". I figured you could all read the listing... FWIW, they are identical enough for me. In fact, I had not already bought panasports, I would have probably bid on them, (after seeing more detailed photos of all wheels). Looking back at pics of my previous 1971 240, I really can't tell the diffference, though I'm certain a more discerning eye could.

Here's the link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Carroll-Shelby-Libre-wheels-240Z-260Z-280Z_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43954QQihZ018QQitemZ280205728955QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Thanks for the referral, but I already delivered the car to Williams Auto Body in San Mateo. William is very familiar w/ early Z's and from what I saw does good work. I stripped her down pretty well, no fixed glass, no interior, no chrome. Attached is a pick of the delivery to the body shap a week ago.

The lights can be inside the windshield or grill and non-obvious, as long as they are readily visible when lit. The police markings need not be the contrasting "black & white". I've seen markings on some police cars that are very subtle, but still fit the "distinctively marked" requirement. I'll be watching out!

I'm planning on ordering an aftermarket A/C kit for my 1972 240Z in about 6 weeks so I'll have it when the car comes back from the paint shop. I've searched the previous A/C posts, gained some insight into Z air conditioning, but still have a few specific questions for you Z guru's... (especially Carl Beck). To start, here's what I gleaned from the previous posts: 1) The fan "pulls" through the heat exchangers, is not very powerful and limits cool air delivery. 2) There is poor circulation in the interior, limiting air conditioner effectiveness. (I'm planning to install a rear window louver that should help reduce the greenhouse effect). 3) On most of these systems, (but not all), the A/C heat exchanger hangs down low into the passenger footwell. (Ugly and encroaches on passenger foot space). I read in the posts some units hang down lower than others. I've found several sources for A/C kits: MSA, Courtesy Auto, Nostalgic Air, Vintage Air, Hotrod Air. Question: Based on the pics, it looks like the MSA and Courtesy Auto kits are sourced from Nostalgic Air. Is this true? If not, which of these takes-up the least real estate in the passenger footwell? Vintage Auto's kit is not "specific" to the 240Z. The vintage air kit looks like it's a more modern unit, replacing the existing air box, air valves and heater core. The controls appear to be servo operated, not manual like the stock set-up. In searching the posts, it looks like Carl Beck installed the Vintage Air unit. Question: It looks like this unit would be less obtrusive into the interior. Is this true? Question: How hard is it to convert to the Vintage Air unit? What are the main issues? Controls Set-Up? Given the cost of these A/C kits, I really appreciate any sage advice before I place an order...

In California, (from the DMV web page), model year 1975 and older for vehicles less than 14K pounds.

Here's a pic of the exhaust air tube plugs I got from McMaster-Carr. They are 1/4" BSPT hex head and I think they look pretty nice. With that big hex head, I'll be able to remove them if required...

Wow! That was a score. Libres are my absolute favorite wheels on 240z's. My previous Z, (early 1990's), was a white 71 with Libre's. Great wheels.

I tend to agree w/ Arne, but I'm no expert on wheels and tires. Depending upon tire availability, on my 15" panasports I plan to run no wider than 215's, but am really thinking of going with 205's. Regarding my selection of panasports, it's not nostaligia, I just like the way they look. I also considered the slots sold by MSA, but the panasports won out in the end. Just my 2 cents... Julio

I'm planning to do the rear disc upgrade. Discs are not perfect, but I like them better than drums. In my experience w/ various cars, I've found disc brakes to be more reliable and easier to work on. But that's just me...

I agree with BRE-240Z on 17" wheels. They just don't look "right" to me. I went 15" panasports, but 16" looks fine as well. One thing to consider is ride quality & potholes. I know two people with tall rims and low profile tires, (which is how I would characterize 17's on a Z). Their cars ride very hard and both have had to repair or replace rims after hitting a pothole on the highway. There's not enough cushion in the tire sidewall to protect the rim. Just my 2 cents...

I'm doing their lowest cost upgrade. Basic rebuild / bore-job where they make my L24 into an L28 with a mild performance head. Everything replaced on the head, all new bearings and seals below. Magnafluxed, etc. With exception of the machine work, nothing I probably couldn't do myself. Difference is I'm sure they do a better job... With this upgrade I should get slightly more performance than a stock L28, but am told it will still idle smoothly. According to their web site it should produce approximately 200 hp with increase in torque to about 195 ft-lbs. Gas mileage should not change if I can keep my foot off the throttle. *grin* Quoted cost was approximately $3,500, complete. Of course, it could go higher if they find something wrong. A bit pricey for me, but it's actually pretty reasonable for a "quality" engine rebuild. My buddy just spent $5,000 for a mild performance rebuild of a Ford V8. I figure it will be worth it, since I plan to keep the car till they carry me out in a box or the DMV tells me I can't drive anymore...

Rented a small tow trailer and dropped my car off at Williams Auto Body this morning. Now comes the 8-10 week wait... Showed William the light rust area I found and he will contact me after they have stripped it down and can see it better. Next I have to finish getting the engine ready to take to Rebello in about 2 weeks.

Very Nice Job!

If you remember I had a problem with some door panels I bought about 1-1/2 months ago on eBay. I filed a dispute w/ Pay Pal and yesterday they ruled in my favor. Seller agreed to refund my money upon reciept of the door panels. I'm out about $30 for shipping, but that's OK. Happy ending! Also, I purchased another set of panels from the seller in Canada. Very nice reproductions with chrome strip that appear to fit fine...

I phone ordered from McMaster. They typically ship the same day and are a great source for anything mechanical. Here's the link: http://www.mcmaster.com/

I considered that as my best back-up solution, one I would have used in preferrence to tapping the original fittings with the 1/4-20 plug option. Getting the correct fittings from McMaster is less work. Call me lazy... *grin*