jasonparuta

looks like an old modified SKYLINE...

I am in CT

they are for an R200 going in as a swap on a 73 240Z

hey do you have: - '75-78 mustache bar - '76-78 driveshaft - '75-78 front differential mount and insulator

- '75-78 mustache bar - '76-78 driveshaft - '75-78 front differential mount and insulator thanks

looking for a '81-83 ZX R200 3.9 diff to buy.

I am looking to buy a fuel tank out of a 1975-76 Z. (hopefully in decent condition..

I bought the header adapters and some straight and 90 bend tubing. I had it bent, welded and clamped. My dad did all the work, he's a wizard when it comes to that stuff!

MSA is motorsport auto: www.zcarparts.com. I use them and ebay alot. But if you want a more complete list of suppliers go to my web page: http://www.geocities.com/jasonparuta/partlist.html Click on the headings to go to the links...

I replaced everything, pads, rockers, springs. When I bought the cam motorsport never mentioned I needed to block of the oiler. I noticed that they now have a note about this, and apparently they ship the block off plate with every new cam kit. I bought a new one today and will wait to see if this is true. I also needed to buy a new set of rockers, and I threw in the performance oil pump as well. In all about $400 dollars for what seems to be a 4 dollar mistake of not using the block offs!

I bought a cam from motorsport (part# 10-2003) and I put about 6000 miles on it. after pulling off the valve cover to inspect it was very worn. I think it wasn't geting enough oil. Do I need to block off the cam oiler with the block off plates or do I need a new cam oiler? thanks

I'm using 3dsmax 5.1

thanks alphadog for the print. it is exactly what I have been looking for! check out my Z website: www.geocities.com/jasonparuta

I am looking for blueprints for the 240Z. Technical drawings of the top, front, side, and back of the car. I want to build a 3D model of it. If anyone helps I'll send them a render of it when I finish! thanks

I finally figured out the my fuel regulator was not giving the proper 3 psi to the webers. books say that you can go between 1.5 and 3 psi. I think I need 3psi due to a radical cam. I bought a pressure gauge from summit and dialed it in. I haven't gotten a "pop" since. Now I just need to figure out why I get high pressure when I cold start. After I drive it some it goes down to 3psi... weird.

Thanks, this subject really warrants plenty of research. I'll take your suggestion and gets some books. Thanks!

I am thinking of getting a R4 diff and 5 speed. As for the ignition I have a MSD 6AL, pertronix inside a mallory distributor. I think the MSD system should be fine, i hope. I don't know If I am really going to do the N20, but the thought of it all is very entertaining! thanks for your help

Sounds tricky. I saw this kit at Jegs: http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=3786&prmenbr=361 It says it has a system that adds the correct ratio of fuel and N20 I think that is the only way to do it, or otherwise it would mess with normal driving. I don't want to change the jets, just add a separate fuel / nitrous assembly. I have never dealt with this system before but it sounds like it might work.

I guess I could drill and tap a hole in each intake port then. Would that be the only real issue? I heard the fogger type is the way to go anyway...

My triples do the same thing but only about once every time I drive it. I can't tell want it's from either. Any help is appreciated!

Just wondering if there is a reasonable way to hook up nitrous with triple webers and a cannon intake?

hey all I finished my website for my resto project. Go here: http://www.geocities.com/jasonparuta/

Painting it myself saved a bundle. the base coat cost $250 a gallon though. The, base, clear, solvents, primer, etch, paper, etc. added a lot, but in all it was about $800 in supplies. (this doesn't include all the metal work and rust repair costs which I did myself along with my dad - fabrication guru) but better than paying $4000+ for someone else to do it!