d240zx2

Yeah, I agree. It's our ride heights. We're low and swoopy. The big guys gotta have a ladder (relatively speaking) to even get into their behemoths. To quote a well-known airline cabin attendant after a particularly rough landing, "It's not the pilot's fault, it's the asphalt."

Hello, Daryl, and welcome. Let's do some basic info gathering. First, there is an engine plate on the passenger fender well under the hood. Check the numbers you see there against the numbers you'll find stamped on the head and block, passenger side. Do those numbers match? If the block stamping says L28-XXXX, you've got a 280 block, if it says L24-XXXX you've got the 240 block. Heads can be and have been swapped from L24s to L28s and vice versa, so the head number doesn't necessarily tell you what engine is in the car.

Used to ride a Huffy.

Since I paid for 'em, I'm sorta partial to Konig Rewinds. They look damned good on my Z, too.

Take a peek at my Konigs....

You may be correct H4. My '70 has screws, too.

#5. I have the Pertronix and am one that's never experienced any sort of bogging or hesitation at any rpm. It just goes and goes.

rkas, check the bolt tightness of your diff mounts, especially the diff to moustache bar. Can't help with the pricing stuff...

My '70 had the stock 3.36 rear ratio. I plugged in the '82-'83 5 speed 'cause I love a CR tranny. The performance sucked in 5th gear. Popped in a R200 3.9 and boy, howdy! did that car come alive. Before the rear end swap, the best I could do in 5th was about 100, just wouldn't pull past it. Now, with the 3.9, I've seen 6700 on the tach in 5th and still climbing. Point being, you've got to mate your tranny with the rear ratio to optimize your performance.

I admire your taste in color, Colby. Beautiful car.

It wouldn't hurt, but you'd likely not see any difference in terms of oil or engine life since you're typically not placing the engine under extraordinary stress.

Same here, Carl. I ordered a set of pre-drilled to replace the 40 year-old covers and the pre-drilled covers were half-inch too short... would not fit. So, if you've got a source, put me on the list. Frank

I had to replace my Gonculator. My Disgronificator valve failed, pushing the discharge chute smack-dab into it. What a mess!

Ditto Panasports

Based on what you wrote, it MAY be a problem with the mechanical weight in your distributor that's causing the problem. If that weight isn't free-swinging or if the spring is broken, you could experience what you're describing.

Not to disagree with FastWoman, but I've read here and elsewhere that the 240 doors are not the same as 260 doors. You'll need to explore that a bit more in my opinion.

Pics would help, Tim. If you're a good welder, PM me for a simple solution.

Damn!

It's been too long ago that mine had stock anything, so I can't really give you a comparo. I do know that my BRE set-up is pretty stiff; you can liken it to a buckboard when crossing tracks, unless you get a bit of speed up and do a General Lee.... Since I put the 16s on, haven't had any problems with speed bumps. The 14s caused a bit of metal erosion on occasion...

Lowered mine 39 years ago. Absolutely NO regrets. Handles better, ride is acceptable and it looks like it should.

Mike said it all. Every nook and cranny (with no offense to the delicious muffins) should be inspected for the iron oxide demon. Body work will, literally, eat any budget you might have established, therefore, the less work for the body, the more you'll have available for go-fast and pretty.

Glad to have you about. Post some pics when you get the chance.

Just from your driving about town, Stephen, how do you think they'd hold up as a track pad?

Ralph Reber is the owner. I've gotten several parts from him over time. A good man, and local to me.

Early Zs and some later, mid-70s Zs, had issues with vapor lock. This was an attempt to minimize or eliminate the problem. It seemed to work on some cars, but not on others. I never had to use it on mine, and I don't know why.... Frank