d240zx2

cozye's route sounds most logical to me, Ben. And since 240 bumpers and brackets are fairly difficult to locate, I'd take him up on it. PS: Sorry I missed your PM until yesterday morning. We had a pretty nice turnout, ~50 total cars. Sorry you couldn't make it.

cozye's route sounds most logical to me, Ben. And since 240 bumpers and brackets are fairly difficult to locate, I'd take him up on it. PS: Sorry I missed your PM until yesterday morning. We had a pretty nice turnout, ~50 total cars. Sorry you couldn't make it.

I'd go with an air dam fitting your finished product.

That is a beauty, Rob.

Check w/Courtesy Nissan in Big D. They'll have the part and info you need. If it was a 240, I'd know...

You need to make the acquaintance of Doug Bakke of Awesome Z in Houston. Top Z wrench in the state. Also, check into the Z Club of Houston. Lottsa talent in that organization....

There's a radiator shop just south of Spring Cypress on Kuykendahl, east side of the road. I've used him for radiator work, but don't know if he does gas tanks. Can't remember the name of the business, although I can drive you there.... typical me. Frank

Pretty car. Do you get to drive it often?

Courtesy Nissan is the dealer you're thinking of...

Yep, you were right. "LIKE"

Since you're running Pertronix, the ballast resistor is not needed.

Your English is OK, don't sweat it. If we don't understand something, we'll ask you to explain it in a different way... Based on what you said, new rotors, and you bought used calipers but haven't rebuilt them yet, I'd suspect a definite possibility of caliper failure. Rebuild the used set you bought, bleed properly, and test. I suspect your problem will have gone away.

After pondering the cut-out some, I've concluded that it has something to do with the shock absorber assembly used on the 280, but not on prior year cars. Could be wrong, tho...

From all you've said and done, I'd lay $10 on you having a bad coil.

My '70 is absent that cut-out as well.

I suspect something got pulled loose, Ben. Recheck for broken/loose connectors at the sending unit and gauge.

What you don't know is whether either t-stat is opening at the rated temp. Submerge each of them, individually, in a pan of water. Insert a thermometer capable of reading to boiling. Watch the t-stat whilst submerged in the water as it is heated. Note the temp on the thermometer when you see the t-stat open. Do the same with the other t-stat and you'll know which is the more accurate of the two.

Willoughby Z is correct, Ben.

I have Tokiko Illumina struts on my lowered '70. Set at the "softest" setting, the ride is pretty stiff ( I wouldn't call it "buckboard" stiff, though ). I also run Konig Rewinds, 16 x 7 w/0 offset. No clearance issues w/225-50 Yokohama rubber.

Wow! That is a PRETTY set-up!

That's a real nice improvement, Ben. I've had some success with aluminum polish from MSA, a three-part buffing process. Also Mother's makes a fairly decent cleaner/polish that works pretty well after you've removed the surface oxides.

Adjusting the valves is one of the simpler things you can do. Verify the factory specified clearances for intake and exhaust valves, have the appropriate feeler gauges on hand, 17mm & 14mm open-end wrenches, remove the plugs and valve cover, place car in neutral. Use your crank pulley bolt w/27mm socket to rotate the engine to measure the clearance between the cam and lash pads. Adjust to specs as required. You'll be done in just a few minutes.

Are you going with Boeing 747 front tires, too.

I am sorry to have to amend my earlier post. A recent transaction with Too Intense was completely unsatisfactory. I will not do business with them again.

Good lookin' car. I'm with you on the carb set-up....not sold.