TomoHawk

Thar's correct, but the video gives him more credits than he actually earned.

There's a neat video on YouTube about a distributor with a clear cap. It shows you the arcing while it spins. I would like to see a similar one showing the mechanicals moving with changes in RPM and vacuum.

I can think of much better things to spend $1200 on than new distributor.

Exactly as I said, there's no reason to fool with something that works fine, or "isn't broke." I would rather spend time in the driver's seat than looking at a computer screen, and fooling with "curves." If it was $89, then I might consider trying it.

I think I will keep using the electronic ignition on my L28E engine. Spending $600 to "upgrade" what is already there with what is just a fancier version doesn't sound like much of an advantage. On a 240Z with the points ignition, this looks like it might be a useful upgrade.

MSD already has a thing called the E-Curve distributor.... But they make stuff for American engines mostly. http://www.msdperformance.com/product.aspx?id=5411&terms=E-Curve

I thought I might look at some photos online to see if I can find a shot of a good panel at the orientation I need to get the details needed. Then I looked at some eBay auctions, and I did find one but the seller only had one photo from the front. I asked for more photos, and the seller was quite shocked that his part had the ends broken! So he closed the auction. This is an example of the kind of detail was was looking for to repair the ends. The only problem left is to figure out how to get the panel on or ff with out breaking the ends again! There were no auctions that had images of the mode control lever.

Contrary to what is in the OP's video, Mr K. didn't design anything. He just built up and ran the American part of Nissan for a while. I thought you were going to say he was ill or something.

The 280Z did not come from the factory with any kind of warning device to let you know the headlamps or parking lamps are on, but it's easy enough to add one. The Fasten Seat Belt lamp is on the repairs list for the summer. It's operated by the relay mess near the fusebox. The bulb might just be out or there might be a bad connection. A test lamp/buzzer and wiring diagram is useful for this situation.

Well, maybe some details on the function lever then? There are notches on the metal bar that goes across the control assembly, and the function lever slides along that bar. The lever is somewhat tubular ( a drilled-out rod?) and it looks like there is supposed to be a spring-loaded thing that goes in there? But what is it that contacts the bar and catches in the notches when you move the function lever? Probably a rounded-over piece or something with a roller bearing... A photo of that would be nice too.

I would like one on the bench so you can see the end view.

I'm sorry to tell you that the model I got was either a dud, or doesn't "ding-dong" by just putting power to it. It needs some kind of oscillating power to get it to go ding-ding, as the thing is really just an electromagnet with a little metal bar that will ding, like a doorbell chime. I will need to go with a modern electronic chime. Durite makes one, but it's only sold in the UK.

Hello, I would like to try and repair the heater control panel (the part where the levers go through the slots.) On the sides of the panel there are some plastic 'legs' that probably keep the panel tight against the outer heater fascia panel. What I'm asking for is some photos from the side. From that I can rebuild the panel to what it's supposed to be like, and it'll be tight again (it rattles a little.) ThxZ

thanks for the video link. It's too bad the video technology or the shot wasn't better at the time. I too wondered if a Z (or any Datsun) ever made it to a venue like that. I hope the vintage group can make it there again for the Vintage event, and possibly even set up the live cams.

This really sucks. Haha... Now I can't argue with "auto maintenance experts" about how the engine doesn't have the digital fuel injection control unit they expected to see. But at least you're not replacing the factory ECU with another worn-out unit, and it'll be what I call the "manufacturer and marque-approved replacement." I'll set up a box for dollar bills somewhere and start filling it. Should it be a BIG box or a small one? :classic:

The point was that when you stray from the OEM wiring, you are responsible for documenting changes, or even the entire new system, for future reference, or even the next owner. The factory wiring diagrams are readily available, complete, with notes and without any errors.

I would stay with the OEM connectors and pin numbers. It'll Make any later diagnostic or trouble-shooting efforts easier. It's just a shame that you can't adapt a tubular AFM or MAF sensor to the original ECU (you probably can, but it's not easy.)

Al I did to fix the handle from coming off was to squeeze the clip together a little. They loosen up when you pull the handle off. Also, try to get the steel clips instead of the copper ones.

Thanks Lenny. Would you please get a photo of the intake manifold to see how it looks with the extra parts? I'm trying to take stuff off my for a clean look, and you need to add sensors for the new control system.Perhaps the new sensor(s) are not very noticeable?

Oh yeah, right. You need to also make sure that the clip is squeezed just tight enough so the handle doesn't fall off or get pulled off.

There is a simple tool for getting the clip off. OTOH, on my '78, you can see the clip after you take the plastic cover off.

Maybe we should take the screws out and put in some rivets in stead?

Mine are the same, but a car show "judge" took a point off because they weren't how he expected they should look.

If you drive the car anywhere but the desert, they'll not be that way for long.

How are you going to shine them up? there's a lot of grooves on those.