TomoHawk

I need to get a new AFM for my 78 280Z, because the dealer tekkie said it was messed up from somebody trying to adjust it. The omly problem isthat the number plate on it is worn clean, so the part # is not there. How can I determine the correct part # for my engine? Could I just upgrade to the 240SX AFM instead (assuming it's an improvement)? I will be returning to the dealer to have them adjust whichever AFM I get later. thx.

I get that too. my tailpipe has a nice thick coat in it. I think it's a fuel/soot mix from the engine running waaay rich. I've been trying to lean it out, but still get a drop or two sometimes. I haven't noticed the oil level changing.

I just got a valve-job from the Nissan dealer. Only adjusted the valves. I picked up a few mpg. I think I'm up to about 22 mpg now.

My thoughts exactly. What talent does it take to go in a circle (besides a tolerance to dizziness)? Anybody can mash a gas pedal to the floor.. Take rally racing. THERE'S a real driver's sport. Those guys are going like mad down country roads, in the snow, on pavement... Add in an occasional passenger car (with non-professional driver) out to get groceries (or whatever,) or even a horse-drawn cart, and you get a 100% difference between circle track and rally racing. You don't know what the next turn is like, you don't get 200 laps practice at perfecting the turn, and you spend a significant amount of time in flight! You need a strong co-driver too. Man, I get ill looking at a map while driving straight down the turnpike, but these guys look at the notes for a long time without getting nauseous.

What i ment was that the printer will print you a new copy bound & all. Brand new, hot off the printing machine.

I inquired at the local Nissan dealer about getting the FSM, and they don't carry it. I even heard you can get it on CD somewhere. Anyway, the dealer gave me the number of a local publisher, who could print out a copy for me for $75. Maybe that's what the others are talking avout.

I mentioned the phrase "go to a show" and right away the tekkie at the dealer started seeing $$$!!! He tells me I'll need to renew just about everything to get it working right, starting with that junky wiring harness. I tried to explain I want the engine working right & 'reliable' so I can go TO car shows with my Z. Some people at the local cruise-ins get a kick out of that ol' beastie, so I thought I might fix it up fairly well as well as the GTO body kit I got. So I'll look into the factory book. It might be a (little) better than the Haynes book? Some people... Oh SPORK - It's a "79 280Z" but some will say it's a 280Z built 11/78. contact me via email at magnum@nacs.net thx.

Can I change out the AFM (Air flow meter) myself? Dealer did a tune-up and tells me the egine is way rich ("off the scale") and wants to charge me $600 for the AFM alone :shock: . So I think I will give it a go, or have the regular service guy do it? VB and MSA both have the AFM for under $200 with a $100 core. My aim with this one is to end the dripping of liquid (gas?) out of the tailpipe. I think I might get an addition few mpg out of this too (currently ~18, would like 22 (400 miles per tank). thx.

Why doesn't somebody make a mold of the plastic cover behind the headlights? It would protect the back of the headlights from water splashing and reduce corrosion of the wires & connector. Then we could all get the old ones out and attach the new ones with pins, so You can get them off easily. Also, a nice hole through the inner fender with a rubber wire protector would be nice. That way, the wires are protected from water splashing. What's there originally, is OK, but they should have seen the problems with water straight away.

I thought of repairing the panels. The material you susgested should be as good or better than original, but I think it would look better with the proper screws. I was even thinking of losing all that vinyl for alminum panels- hence the screws.

I was planning on using the holes that are already there in the door. I think they are about 4-6mm diameter? Where did you get SST sheet metal screws?

Those clips that push into the doors and hook onto the door planels should go. Well, most of the slots on my door panels are broken from whoever worked on the car before. So, I had the idea of some kind of threaded insert that would go in the hole so you can use some decorative SCREWS to attach the door panels, and whatever other panels, like the ones behind the seats (speaker panels), and maybe even some of the plastic parts. Maybe something like a 10mm diameter pop-rivet with a threaded shank? thx.

My car is at the dealer for a tune up, so maybe they have a way to test the springs .

I've been using several different grades of gas, but usually from the same place if I can. In my Escort, the 89 octane seems to work best (mileage & power.) But in the 280Zed, I haven't noticed much difference between the 89 or 92 octanes. BTW, I usually only get about US$5 worth, so I can flush out all the rust from the gas tank:o I didn't even know you could use leaded fuel in the Zed, there's no warning sticker anywhere in there, or the usual places. Would it be good to try some lead?

I have gotten a couple of those bullet-style mirrors off eBay. Hopefully they might match( somewhat.) If you look for some, make sure it's got an Aluminium body, not just chrome-on-plastic. I would prefer to get some real Talbot green-dots for when I finally get to do my GTO(!) conversion I'm going to make a temporary plate for one to see what it's like driving with a fender-mounted mirror, then maybe mount it to the fender permanently.

I haven't noticed any 'squat' during hard acceleration, but the back end seems a little more sensitive to bumps than the front (new shocks there.) I was planning on a set of those lowering springs, and new shocks in the back, which might fix things up right. thx.

My 280Z siiits a little low in the back compared to the front. I did take the a/c pump off, but I don't think it would make the front come up an inch or so. How would you know if the rear springs are bad or weak? Could there be another reason the front is higher? thx.

I think you are right about tail lamps that use the same bulb for brake and turn tignal. I was referring to a 280Z that uses separate bulbs for both.

On my 1978 280Z,The brake lightsare on separate BULBS than the turn signals. I spent a week or two cleaning and replacing the bulb sockets, and replacing bulbs. Even the wiring diagrams in the Hayne's and Mitchel's book agree with me. Maybe the car you are referring to is different.

The switch for the brakelight is on the brake pedal arm. It works the same as the switch on E-brake handle. I would probably replace it if you can for safety. The hazard switch should pop if you can pry it out. Or you might reach in from under/behind to push it out. It has a connector to the under-dash wiring. Mine gets a little loose and quits working sometimes. Most important: The hazard lights are totally separate from the brake lights. The hazard flasher is connected to the turn signal lamps, not the brake lamps.

I saw a program on history channel about the early porches and they did say that the early ones were a real man's car to drive because you had to be in total control all of the time on curves or it'll let go & you're done. Need some good strong arms too.

If you want to try a vibratory method, you could get an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner and fill it withl a slurry of water & some kind of granular cleaner (dishwasher detergant, small bb's or some sandblasting agent?) Don't use something that will make the surface rough- you just want to knock the rust off.

He's probably referring to the big changes in body styling.

If you use a rock tumber on nuts, won't it round off the corners? You'd want them to be sharp to fit the socket/wrench. I'm interested on how the chemical "CLR" works on rust. Tthere is also a nother chemical: REMOVE RUST WITH NO WORK, ACIDS, OR ENVIRONMENTAL WORRIES! NO VOC's; NO HAP's; NO Solvents; No Acids; No Bases; Non-Corrosive; Non-Toxic; Non-Flammable; Biodegradable; Sewerable in neat form Safe for brass, copper, aluminum, glass, vinyl, rubber, plastic, wood, and cork Will not harm non-oxide paints or coatings such as chrome or black anodizing. Orison Marketing, L.L.C. <http://www.orisonllc.com It sounds like plain water....?

Corroded wires going TO the voltage regulator (sensor side) would probably show a lower battery voltage, and the regulator would appropriately bump up the volts coming off the alternator. In that case, the things are working fine, just the resistance in the one wire is screwing things up. I.E: try a fresh wire from (the alternator to the regulator's sensor), or whatever is right for your stuff. Then let us know if that's the thing.