TomoHawk

My 280Z siiits a little low in the back compared to the front. I did take the a/c pump off, but I don't think it would make the front come up an inch or so. How would you know if the rear springs are bad or weak? Could there be another reason the front is higher? thx.

I think you are right about tail lamps that use the same bulb for brake and turn tignal. I was referring to a 280Z that uses separate bulbs for both.

On my 1978 280Z,The brake lightsare on separate BULBS than the turn signals. I spent a week or two cleaning and replacing the bulb sockets, and replacing bulbs. Even the wiring diagrams in the Hayne's and Mitchel's book agree with me. Maybe the car you are referring to is different.

The switch for the brakelight is on the brake pedal arm. It works the same as the switch on E-brake handle. I would probably replace it if you can for safety. The hazard switch should pop if you can pry it out. Or you might reach in from under/behind to push it out. It has a connector to the under-dash wiring. Mine gets a little loose and quits working sometimes. Most important: The hazard lights are totally separate from the brake lights. The hazard flasher is connected to the turn signal lamps, not the brake lamps.

I saw a program on history channel about the early porches and they did say that the early ones were a real man's car to drive because you had to be in total control all of the time on curves or it'll let go & you're done. Need some good strong arms too.

If you want to try a vibratory method, you could get an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner and fill it withl a slurry of water & some kind of granular cleaner (dishwasher detergant, small bb's or some sandblasting agent?) Don't use something that will make the surface rough- you just want to knock the rust off.

He's probably referring to the big changes in body styling.

If you use a rock tumber on nuts, won't it round off the corners? You'd want them to be sharp to fit the socket/wrench. I'm interested on how the chemical "CLR" works on rust. Tthere is also a nother chemical: REMOVE RUST WITH NO WORK, ACIDS, OR ENVIRONMENTAL WORRIES! NO VOC's; NO HAP's; NO Solvents; No Acids; No Bases; Non-Corrosive; Non-Toxic; Non-Flammable; Biodegradable; Sewerable in neat form Safe for brass, copper, aluminum, glass, vinyl, rubber, plastic, wood, and cork Will not harm non-oxide paints or coatings such as chrome or black anodizing. Orison Marketing, L.L.C. <http://www.orisonllc.com It sounds like plain water....?

Corroded wires going TO the voltage regulator (sensor side) would probably show a lower battery voltage, and the regulator would appropriately bump up the volts coming off the alternator. In that case, the things are working fine, just the resistance in the one wire is screwing things up. I.E: try a fresh wire from (the alternator to the regulator's sensor), or whatever is right for your stuff. Then let us know if that's the thing.

How big are tyhe charcoal cans on the newer cars? If they're smaller, then you might get that big sucker out of your Z and use the space for something else. Can you mention a newer car that you KNOW has a charcoal cannister so I can see for myself? Thx.

Can I get some specs on the ignition coil that comes stock on the 280Z? Better yet, what's a good replacement? Thx.

You mean it was on yesterday... for people in the Americas.

Thanks, I will have to look at all that stuff. It won't be easy or simple, but it looks like it will have to be done.

No smoke out the tailpipe, but the tip is sooty inside. Can you explain what you mean but the injectors/regulator leaking?

I suspect that my engine is running a little rich ( from looking at the spark plugs) that's why I was asking.

I'd like to know if anybody has a good idea or gizmo for letting you know to turn your lights OFF? I don't want to be stuck somewhere with no juice. Thx.

the volt meter on my 280Z reads 16V with the engine on, a little less with the headlights on. I measured the voltage at the battery with the engine running and it reads a nice 13.5, so I will have to assume that there is a little something going on with the wiring somewhere else and the voltmeter is reading that. Can you get a volts reading at the back of the voltmeter? It would tell you if it isn't reading right & should be replace/fixed.

Is it possible to tune the ECU on a '78 280Z for more power or better fuel economy? What, if anything can you do to the ECU? Should it be swapped for something else? I'm looking for fuel economy (currently at about 17 ,mpg- would like to see 20.)

That might explain why it passed the e-check when I got it last summer.

My '78 280Z didn't have any emmissions stuff on it. No smog pump, no catalytic converter. The Haynes book says only Calif. cars had that stuff. BUT, I'm in Ohio and my 25+ year-old car is now exempt. Oh yeah-- no air conditioning, either. Another 100 Lbs less stuff to carry around.

I used to have a bookmark for an Z car interchange guide or book you can buy from some website. Does anybody know about it? Thx.

So they just expect you to toss out the driveshat & axle shafts if they go dry?? What kind of dumb logic is that??

How much lower did the Tokiko struts get? Were they a bolt-in? How would/do you know if your springs are weak? the back of my 280 is lower than the front.

1978 280Z, 3spd Auto. Is there a way to know IF you can grease your drive shaft & axle sahafts? I think I read somewhere that there were ones you could and couldn't grease. Thx.

Can someone please confirm that the pin will come out by tapping from the bottom? I hate to do that and hurt the hinge it it won't go. Thx.