TomoHawk

Do you still have those two videos? thx

I used some Seafoam today. It went in through the vacuum port just ahed of the brake booster vac tube, using a thin vacuum hose ( so it goes in salowly). Almost immediately, I saw the dirty gray smoke. I let about 3/4 can go through, then I shut off the engine and put on a door/windowframe weatherstrip piece. The rest of the Seafoam went into the gas tank. Then went for a drive. It smoked in the driveway (and smells bad), it smoked on the way to the freeway, and it smoked a short time on the freeway. I was wondering why some "expert" didn't chase me down to 'inform' me that my muffler was smoking; maybe they all thought my "old car" normally smoked. I kept it under 3000 RPM (60MPH) on the freeway for about 10 minutes, then up to 3300 (65 MPH). After about 20 minutes, it wasn't smoking any more. I haven't noticed anything different in the engine (yet?) It bogged a little while sucking the Seafoam in, and then smoothed out after I stopped the treatment. No increase in horsepower or acceleration. Possibly the engine needs another treatment, or its clean enough now, and the horsepower problem lies elsewhere (like low fuel pressure). fwiw

Thank you.

Yeah, what do I care about 4 speeds? My car was a/c equipped, but not any more, and the 3 speeds seems to be adequate. Except for those strange days when you need the windscreen defrosted/defogged NOW, so any speed is too slow. I would like another 2 or 3 weeks to be really prepared for show season tho.

Ok, I opened up the front and I looked to see what there is. I could see the switch lever arem, and some of thte teeth on the arm that drive the gear, but the gear itself was inside a little metal housing. After I get the car back ( and after next Saturday's car show) I'll see if I can get that gearbox out. After that, I hope some JB Weld will help fix things. I want to vacuum out the blower box too. I hear some tinks that I don't recognize. thx.

Thap picture in #11 looks familiar to a certain Italian desgn from the back, and like a certain Japanese design from the front....

I would probably have the hood, doors & hatch off. The hood would get media blasted ( undercoating on the bottom side), maybe I would have the windshield & hatch glass removed, and everything then painted. Do you think they would paint the inside?

IMO, it was economics, and too MUCH engineering that caused the 350 to look like it does. Some guy decided that the wind tunnel wants a blunt nose, so they gave it one. The accountants said it has to be lighter, so they took out the metal, and made it shorter(so the blunt nose will fit).Throw in some guy that keeps saying "This is the 21st century! Make it look, feel & drive like something else, not something "OLD.":(

Thx Arne. I'll see what here is out there.

I found out that the spark plug wires I bought from NAPA for my Ford Escort really aren't the same as the OEM, because the resistance was way off! It caused the idle to be a little rough, less power, etc. Is that normal? I got the wires for my 280Z from NAPA too, so now I'm wondering if I should pitch those and order a "correct" set? The NAPA ones weren't what I would call the correct length, either, and the boots (esp. # 5 &6) weren't bent correctly, from all the photos & cars I've seen (stock class cars). I think the same for the ign coil too. My L28 seems to have (less power than I would think). Who should stock the right spark plug wires & coil for a 280Z? MSA? thx

Yeah, since I don't know exactly what's going on inside the lamp, andit's not a filament-type, I could only speculate. It would probably be good to install new lamps, anyway. IF I can get inside there. The inner liners are pretty fragile, and 'glued' in with undercoating. thx

I lost the low beam on the right side on my 280Z. Both Hi beams work tho. I checked the wiring using a test light and the circuits seem to be good, so I checked the lamp itself via the connector behind the rad support. the VOM shows (continuity) meaning that the filaments are good. My lamps are the Koito type, do those have filaments? I can look thgrough the glass, and I don't see any filaments, just some things that look like a ball on a stick? BTW, I bought some halogen lamps from the NAPA to install, assuming my one lamp was out, and the book says it's got MORE candellas, with LESS wattage! thx

Join us for the 7th annual Midwest Z Heritage Show in Kent, Ohio. On July 14-15, 2006 Car Show is at Summit Racing...this year's event offers the traditional ZACO "Keg-N-Clean" parking lot social Friday and Saturday night and a new optional car museum tour in Canton, Ohio following the car show. The Hampton Inn in Kent, Ohio is hosting us this year and we're expecting a great show (hopefully, great weather...) and alot of Z cars. 8) Download the form and preregister for this year's event. We're looking forward to seeing the folks from ZROC, CincyZ and other local clubs in attendance to show their cars' best in battle for the Midwest Z Travelling "Club" trophy. Registration Form Download: (right-click & choose "save as") http://www.clevelandzclub.com/MWHeritage_2006_RegForm.pdf

Your common wire on the light connector should be the +12 volts from the battery, andthe relays should control which ground wire is connected to the chassis.

Well, they'll just have to go looking for tougher challenges or car shows, then. And we'll be there to cheer them on.

My gf lives in North Tampa, and she & her dad keep suggesting I move down there... I'd just like to get a job up here (Ohio) for a while, so I can tie up all the loose ends before I do any moving.

thanks Lon, I thought of gold because it won't get oxidized. My other option would be some aluminum soldering rods (the kind you see a guy fixing holes in soda cans), but that won't stick to ferrous metal. I guess I'll have to sandblast, and get out my brzing stuff. thx

I just got a good oilpan for my L28 off eBay because the one on the car is dripping oil. At the last oil change, we looked at it ( followed the oil drips & hosed it with cleaner) to find what the problem was. the leak was directly below the oil sender, but I don't think that was the culprit. It looks like there are some pinholes in the oilpan, maybe from rust? Do you think I could repair the leaky one and sell that? I was thinking about sandblasting then silver solder. Could you solder both the outside & inside? Gold would be better, but also more expensive. I could even use JB Weld, but that would probably show, and not look good. Opinions? thx

Good one Vicky and Scott! IMO, it's easier to really go all-out on an S30 than the 350, which has so much junk, tubing, wires, etc. You can't even see the inner fenders! And never mind about the interior. And that's why an S30 has all that much more potential ( like a artist looking at blank canvas). I like the stuff you've done!!! I would also like to see a 350 stripped down to the bare minimum under the hood. or anywhere else.

I will!. It doesn't hurt to get some opinions, like you would for any body shop or paint shop. Maybe the paint job that's on there is the cheap type that only getsthe car sold.

I firgit to mention that you can even get a deduction for the wrong bolts, but that depends on the other things too.

I saw a neat tool on the Eastwood website, that will measure the thickness of your paint, so you'll know if it can take any sanding.

I'll try to get those screws out next week, but it won't be easy(screw slots look stripped). Do you thinj I could get or make a license plate fram to bolt into those holes? I measured, and you were correct, as the distance between the holes is less than the U.S. plates. I thyink an off-set bracket would work. thx

My car could probably use a cheap paint job to hold it over until I do the whole body job. What will a place like MAACO paint? Like will they do the door jambs, the hatch sides, etc., or will they just mask off the windows & spray what is left? I first thought of just doing the top & fenders, but there are chips & scratches all over. Some rust around the windows too. the top is starting to show light areas, which might be (white?) primer! The fender have llittle dark spots that remind me of freckles, the vent panel feels rough, and other stuff. thx