TomoHawk

I noticed the date on that earlier comment. I thought this topic was one I started last spring.:nervous:

You shouldn't install this buzzer on the fusebox of an S30 car because the fuses are always hot, like the ones for the hgeadlights, so the buzzer would always be on. It would only work on a car thatswitches on the +12V leg of the circuit, and not the ground leg. So that means you'll need to find a place inside the car to hook into a dash light (like the heater control light) and an switched source for the ignition. I think I just answered the question I was going to ask... (where to hook in) You've got the heater controls light and maybe one from a switched radio power supply line. Test the hookup first before making it permanent.

I keep one of the new water-based fire extinguishers in my car, plus a halogen one. the water-based one is from http://www.fireadesource.com/. You can even buy the concentrate and make your own.

I think the B.C.D.D. is just hooked into a switch inside the speedo, so disconnecting it & removing it shouldn't affect the way the engine runs- but you have to plug the hole it was from. More wiring diagram research needed. I think you'd probably just get a puff of black out the tailpipe when you let off the gas pedal.

It even has two kinds of hoses (one hose and one tee) for the aux air valve. My 78 didn't have the tee fitting, and I've seen many others with the tee

Ok, Maybe chocolates or soft csndy instead of marbles. Greens- If you're lucky, you'll be on astreet where the speed limit is 25 MPH, which makes getting all the greens easier. Maybe you can get a few runs at the lights, so you can figure out the timing. Funny? Yeah, maybe. But I see I got you thinking!

Well, we will need to invent some new things to do with no or little setup. While you could draw some tulips for a trek from the car show to a certain watering hole, anything beyond that would require you to do some research. Most people don't want to do any research, or mapping, boards, etc. For a scavenger hunt, all you'd need to do is to pass out some blank pages and then call out the items to find. Hide & seek only requires you to set certain limits (how far you can go from HQ, how long before the 'seek' begins, etc.) For the marble or candy toss (candy is biodegradeable in case you miss) is simple, except that IMO, you need a second person to toss or catch the catch the item. You don't want the driver to be distracted from safe driving, and getting hit in the face (with candy even) can have potentially serious consequenses. Is it more clear now? Usually defining the problem is the hardest part of doing anything. Another idea: drive a certain distance down the street (like 5 lights) catching all the greens with or without using the brakes.

Actually it does. The person who wrote the article admitted that he had a number of people helping. What I'm trying to get at is something you can set up on a parking lot or around town that anybody could do without any kind of preparation or knowledge. Just a little preparation, like setting up some cones or typing up some simple rule sheets. Things you can do during a weekend of a car show, instead of the $40 for amusement park tickets. Remember, not everybody travels with a co-driver.ideas: Scavenger hunt Obstacle course Grapvine game wFRS radios Hide & seek dodgeball? thx

You add to the stupidity of the criminals that they don't know you "can't outrun Motorola," or the Police or TV choppers either.

First make sure your circuits are working. Get a good wiring diagram. If yours is like my 78, then you can probably just plug into the connector under the dash, and ground the circuit to turn it on- but check first. It might be just a saimple connection problem, and not the switches.

Make sure that the inlaid button actually can pop out, and use the biggest rod you can fit into the threaded hole to push the button out. Maybe even use a long threaded rod?

Don't you think that after watching all those TV shows of the in-car video of Police chases, and how the fleeing car & driver/criminals alway get caught, that those kind of crimes would be declining... Or maybe so many people don't have a TV...

I was wondering what kind of LEGAL games people can do with cars? Maybe you (as a passenger) could toss a marble into the other car's window while driving down the street(legal?), or you do that thing from theBrady BunchTV show, where they had a driving contest (like an obstacle course and at the end you had a approach a cone with an egg sitting on top without knocking it off.(remember?) Other than a poker run or other gimmick rally thing, where you need lots of preparation, there has to be some simple games or contests you can do legally or safely, and still be challenging to get a group of people & cars out on a weekend, or even do it at a car show! Im tired of parking the car and walking around, looking at somebody's 24" chromed air cleaner... How about some ideas? thx

the BCDD (Boost-Controlled Deceleration Device) injects a little air when you let off the gas pedal to prevent a cloud of smoke coming out the tailpipe. It is electronically controlled, and can't be adjusted. Maybe it can be disconnected & removed, but I don't know if it would affect the way the engine runs. I suppose if it leaked air, it might raise the RPM.

Onmy '78 280Z, the door lock tumblers are fine, but the arm connecting the barrel to the locking thing seems to have worn out the hole in the arm where it attaches to the lock barrel. To unlock the door, you need to turn the key, then wiggle it up & down a some to get the lock knob to come up. Sound familiar? I've looked at it when I got the car, and the door panel was off, and it (the lock machanism layout) does't look a lot like the parts diagram, so I think the lock might be a later style ('79?) unit. the car is supposed to be an 11/78 build. My idea is to make a new arm of steel or whatever to replace the one with the worn-out hole(s). Can anyone tell me if the lock mechanism is made of steel or aluminum? If aluminum, it would explain the wear & looseness. Getting in there would be fun too.

That middle section (button?) should pop out somehow, right? Maybe the threaded holes goes through to the button. if it did, you could use paints or whatever to restore the color. be carful if you try to remove that button.

My 280Z with Fed. emmissions didn't have the dashpot, nor do I see any room where it should be located (I'm constantly comparing mine to other "stock" cars.) It runs fine nevertheless. I'm wondering about the BCDD myself lately ( as in do you really need that?)

You are right, Lance. You wouldn't want to put chemicals or solvents on the helmet that might get into the resin it's made of, and weaken it. And like Arne said, a helmet should have painting info with it, so you know what you can use. thx

I was thinking about painting a helmet a different color because sometimes you can get a good deal on one of a color you don't like. Maybe to match the color of the car.

Can you paint you SA 2005 helmet or add graphics to it? What is the basic painting process, and are there any limits? thx

Thx Virto I had the dizzy out last winter, to clean & rebuild. I did everything but a new pickup & vacuum pot (NLA). The cap is new also. Spark timing night need a little adjustment. As for electrical connections.... The tech that checked out my car after I got it out pulled ALL the injector connectors off (they had to be attached using RTV stuff. I think I could pull them again, and tighten the connectors a little. Injector-side pins were clean & shiney when I last looked. I've been checking all the connections as I seem to be hearing a vacuum hiss, but can't tell from where. I've checked, serviced, or replaced many things, except the hose on the underside of the intake manifold to the block. thx

I'm (only?) getting about 35-37 PSI of fuel pressure at the fuel rail on my 280Z, and I'm wondering if that's an answer to the low power problem I seem to be experiencing (slow acceleration from a stop). There seems to be some power at highway speeds- enough to get 60 to 85 MPH within a reasonable distance for passing, but acceleration & merging with highway traffic is kinda slow. I put a can of SeaFoam through the engine, so I would assume it 'breathes' better than before, but still no improvement in power. The injectors were also serviced (and were pretty much matched for flow) about a year ago. So right now I'm looking for reasons that would explain low fuel pressure on the fuel rail, like blocked strainer on the fuel pump ( can you buy new ones?) or low voltage to the fuel pump, or even the 6mm hard lines. thx

Steven, I barely had to stretch my rubber duct over the intake tube. It is snug enough and the rubber 'sticky' enough that it stays on there fairly well by itself, but you still need a clamp for safety and mechanical & effeciency correctness. BTW, I used a newer worm-screw clamp on the filter itself and the tube end of thte rubber duct, since that end is "new," and you can't see it well, but a wire (correct name?) clamp on the AFM connection (for period-correctness).

I tried out some "wheel cleaner" on my ZX 5-spoke rims the other day, and they came out kinda nice. I used the Eagle-One cleaner with the acid in it, and I had polished the wheels last spring. Just used Mothers mag polish, and it really shined. I was dissappointed that even the 600 grit sandpaper couldn't take out the grooves in the wheel spokes (from the machining process to make the wheels.) thx

As far as I can tell, none of the wiring can be moved, or I wouldn't want to move it much because the connections are fragile or funny that way. I have noticed all the many rubber-covered steel things in there to hold the wiring, but there are a few loose things like bundles of wire that I feel should be protected by panels or tied up but aren't. I'm especially concerned with the wire bundles behind the center panel. There's not much rroom, and the PO seems to have (untwisted?) certain bundles to make patches, and so the wires are not gathered to well or even tangled. Even the carpet near the lower pass. heater output is pulled up, and there's no documentation about how the wire bundles there should go and how the carpet should lay. It may even be a crappy aftermarket carpet that's cut badly and doesn't fit the car around the heater. I did get a fusebox cover from eBay and I put it on. It's nicer, but not as nice as the newer cars. I need to go crawl around some correctly restored/maintained stock 280Zs.