TomoHawk

The link in post #4 isn't for a video.

there wasn't any video at that address.

I'm curious. How did you com up with the term "ghettoness " and/or what does it mean? thxZ

I saw a TV commercial on the movie, and the debut date is: May 9!

MO, it's the sound of a 12 cylinder short-stroke engine.

The ECU isn't responsible for turning on the fuel pump (I think.) The fuel pump is controlled by the EFI relays, the ignition switch and a set of contats ( like a snap switch) in the AFM. Get a copy of the 280Z fuel injection book (bible;) there is a section on the fuel pump relay (bible)

About 100 billion dollars :lick:, but you could get it more cheaply by building a time machine, and going back to 1977 to get a new one, an hopefully about 50 dozen for the rest of us. That means new ones aren't available, but you might get a used one from a salvage yard or another owner with a parts car or cache. It depends on what your goal for the car is. If you want to restore it to oem or stock condition, you'll have a tougher time getting 'good/new condition' parts. To make it just work again, you can splice in the same parts in 'OK condition' or put in the 'upgrade' parts. Either way, like Will says, try to keep the circuits the same as the manufacturer designed, so the car will be servicable later on.

From the first post, the one fusible link bracket (the one that's not so obviously melted) looks like it might be reattached if you could Goop the metal bracket back on. GOOP is that good & strong! The other one looks too well gone. Not to mention a whole LOT of scrubbing, rubber & vinyl treatments, some re-taping, relabeling and other maintenance. (cue "Bruce Almighty.") thxZ

You really should stick with the fusible links on that car, although the connectors look pretty bad. I'm surprised that it didn't catch fire from trying to run all that much current through "alligator clips?" He (PO) could've at least used spade connectors. Never use wires in place of fuses. I think that you could consider the fuse link conversion (http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/index.html ) That one little black thing below/behind the glovebox is the tachometer resistor. (pg BE-5 of the FSM)

He did my sunvisors, and they look a TON better than the cheap plastic oem stuff! thxZ

Great. In the meantime, get some books au the library or hang with some audio dudes and learn all about what you need ( which costs nothing)

That looks like just a wire shunt going into the cabin (or wherever.) The only fusible links on the 280Z (mine is a '78) are the ones that are mounted on the relay box, as in post #3 (2 green), and the other four usual ones (3 red & 1 blk.) It looks like you have a lot of extra wires going to the battery. Are those really needed? The stock system only has the two heavy wires for ground & the starter, and one smaller wire on the (+) side to power the smaller electrical stuff. thxZ

Which fuse link was melted/burned? You must have one hell of an aplifier or stereo to bedrawing enough current to melt a fuse link, which could be anywhere from 25 to 50 Amps. Did you burn up your wiring too?

Which radio or amplifier is in the car? I've used home stereo speakers on car stereos before, but the stereo was made

I just leave the windows down & drive fast to a show, instead of vacuuming :lick: Hopefully more dust ges out the window than comes in.

Never mind, I went back to the wiring diagram, and it shows two fusible links connected to the battery with blue wires that go to the Fuel Injection relay. The FSM and other resources I've read only show one fusible link. So what I have is correct, but needs to be re-wrapped, or cleaned up, or whatever, and I will look into the "missing" blue wire. thxZ

The red wire is the battery wire, which isn't connected right now, so just ignore that. The thin red wire seems to be unwrapped, and can be corrected. What are those two fusible links used for? thxZ

Here's a shot of the two green fusible links (for the EFI system?) with the two white plastic connectors that snap onto the relay bracket. I haven't yet followed the one red wire on the left connector that goes underneath the relay box. The two white wires on the right connector go to the battery (+) side. It would be good to know if those parts are correct for a 1978 280Z. Maybe it can be swapped out for the correct ones, rewire it correctly, or just snip off the extra stuff somehow. thxZ

I think you will see a number of signed items from Mr K. for sale at the ZCCA convention next fall. thxZ

I have a Haynes book, but I use that along with the FSM, and other resources you find on the Internet, like AtlanticZ.ca. The Hayne's books and such give the basic stuff for your series of car, and the FSM gives the more specific information for your model. the internet resources will give you alternatives to the tech books, and that's where you'll find the real 'shade-tree' stuff. I copy & paste all the stuff I read from Internet website, or car discussion forums into a notes database. I'm using Jot Notes. You can even paste pictures into it, but probably isn't for those people who prefer paper copy & notebooks. thxZ

None of the manuals show you where it's mounted- only a diagram of the fuel system. All the crud and undercoating make it hard to tell what is what. There was no mention of removing the one wheel to get at the one end either, so thanks at least for that bit.

Do you have a picture of the fuel pump mounted to the car?

Reading about the beading tools on the Eastwood company website tells me that those kinds of tools are used by radiator shops. So, Instead of spending hundreds of bux for a tool I'll only use twice, I went to the radiator shop and they rolled the two ends free (they service my cars.) It's a LOT better than using a double-flare tool, like I've been told. thxZ

My car has 2 green fusible links by the battery going to the EFI system, is that correct? The specs on a green fusible link is 40A ( or 50A, depending on the source) but I don't really think you'd need all that current (80 or 100A) to run 6 injectors, and the FSM only shows one fusible link. The plastic holders by the battery have the two green fusible links in them, and they neatly snap into holders on the relay bracket too, so it "looks" like it's correct. Or did the PO patch this in in from another car an attempt to make things work? I can get a photo, if you want one. thxZ

Can you access the dtrainer without removing the gas tank? The pictures in the books are confusing. thxZ