TomoHawk

When you select your vacuum hose, keep in mind whether it is just plain air (like for the he heater controls) in the hose or if it might contain oil or fuel fumes (rocker box or emissions system.) The latter requires an oil-or gas-proof material. Also make sure you get hoses that won't collapse from the vacuum.

No evidence of why you think Dan Gurney should be on the list? thxZ

If you want to see the stats for the Rolex Daytona 24 hours live: http://grandam.racersites-cluster.com/OrbitsServer/grandam/TimingView.html?sid=692&VN=66608 The race ends at 3 PM Eastern time

Sorry... $11 delivered.

I just got a set of 10 copper washers off eBay. Good deal? At the rate I change the oil (annually) it'll last me for the next 10 years.

Is it the newer Mustang that has the high mount brake light with sequential segments?

I'm glad the brake light is separate on the later model. We will just need the one wire.

You probably could paint the pulley without removing it, but the back side might be rusted too. You can't see the back from above.

I only have manual tools also. but I think there might be a length of gaspipe in the attic somewhere. Is there any problem with painting the pulley? It is somewhat protected from flyong debris by the radiator, but still gets a fair amount of water-spray on it. I still have some silver ceramic caliper paint I could use. thxZ

I did a little research earlier and it seems on other cars, you need to remove the nut, and then use allen wrenches to remove some grub screws before the pulley comes off. It was a big pain to get the alternator on the first time, so I was going to leave it on this time. If I have to, I'll take the fan off, so I can get at the pulley with steel wool and a stubby paint brush. thxZ

Higuys, The alternator on my 280Z is a recent replacement, and after one year the pulley is rusted on the one visible cheek. I'm not sure is a rusted alternator pulley is correct/OEM for stock, but it doesn't look nice. So I'd like to de-rust it and paint it. I don't think the polished Zinc plating would look right, unless I left it unpolished, but it would be difficult to just plate the one check and leave the groove unplated. Is it possible to remove the alternator pulley while the alternator is still on the engine? What is the usual way to remove the pulley? thxZ

I just finished plating the alternator arm using the Eastwood Tin-Zinc kit, and it came out really nice and shiny, almost like chrome. I just hope that I got enough of a coating on it to protect it for a bunch of years, because it's sanded so smooth it would probably completely flash rust the first humid day that comes along. :eek:

Carbs OFF the engine??? It looks like the thieves knew what they wanted; like a shopping list, and they knew where the stuff was. Like they were going to outfit a 240Z...

Is that a one-off design, or are you planning to make a mold or something for suplication? BTW- when I started looking around, I fund that the one on a Saturn Ion had the same angle to the window, but didn' think the $60 price was justified.

I'm doing a light myself. It'll have a Z logo cutout with LEDs.

That's correct. I'm thinking that I might strip all the paint off, hammer the one flat and weld it together, then plate it all.

The thing is (or was) that some "automotive experts" told me last summer that a bracket like that should NEVER be made up of so many parts- just the arm and the clamp. I like to keeps things simple, but not if it's going to fall apart while driving somewhere.

This is the assembled bracket, with the tubing clamp: Maybe I should strip off all the paint and just Zinc plate it?

A picture of what? What was on there is now off and in the solvent bucket.

On a 280Z, there is a bracket bolted to the oil pan in front of the starter to support the transmission oil lines to the radiator. Mine has some kind of bodged bracket made up of several pieces of metal bolted together and I don't think it is supposed to be that way. Is there a photo, or a drawing in the microfiche I can refer to, to make or get he correct bracket? thxZ

Better yet, can you summise your whole plating process?thxZ

Are you going to do anything with the gauge faces?

as long as you can keep all the components of the EFI system maintained and working (especially the connectors) it ought to be well-running car. My '78 was WAY under the limits when I got it in 2002 and is only getting better with some maintenance and a few rebuilds (distributor, injectors.) You probably have a few extra components to your EFI for CA regulations tho, and there are people here that gotchya covered. :classic: thxZ

It's (HLS30-OOO13 ) in the newest issue of Nissan Sport magazine.

http://www.tsdroadrally.com/ You will find much information about rallying, tsd rallying, schedules & events, etc. There is also a discussion forum. thxZ