Diseazd

You're a brave soul Jeff......I'm proud of you!

Getting started on the build.....scrubbed out the block.....masked, inserted the plastic freeze plugs I got from Eiji. Cleaned out the head stud holes, attached an old front cover,acid etched primered, then Datsun blue.....looking good! The block was cleaned and bored .040 inches before painting....

Thanks Jeff......I've never timed a cam before, so not sure where you contact the lifter. Also, since you are just ckecking number one at .050", isn't the 0 to .5" indicator good enough to time the cam? How about finding TDC with the head off? How much travel would you need in the dial indicator to locate exact TDC? BTW, back to the thread.....I picked up the block and pistons yesterday, so I should be moving on with my build shortly. Thanks Guy

Isky sends a complete instruction sheet on finding true top dead center as well as degreeing a camshaft with each of their regrinds. Their precision ground cams are so precise that you can use the stock locating holes (according to them). I need to get those items anyway......who sells em?

Gotcha.....Need a good dial indicator.....I'm looking forward to hearing how she runs with your new set-up.

How did you know where and how much to mount the offset timing bushing?

Nice damper Jeff......

Another week's work....

Wonder what happened to X-ray anyway? He started the thread 6 years ago. I remember one thread he did where he taped a camera under his car aimed at the diff. It showed the movement of the diff under load as he rammed through the gears. I was impressed!

It's not mine Zedy, but I believe it would have enough torque to pull the cape off of Superman.

That piston is going in an 800 cubic inch two cylinder stroker for a tractor pull motor!

Another weeks progress.....things are looking good!

The kid has real talent......It looks like a factory installation....everyone needs 600 horses in their family wagon!

Decided on some bigger pistons....

Vintagerubber.com This company makes great door weatherstripping........easy to install....great fit.

No Jeff....you're not alone....I operate in the dark often.....thanks for clearing this up. I assume that all ZX's use the rear sump pan.....for clearance issues. I've never owned one, so don't know anything about their crossmembers. Guy

Crikies mate.....just checked.....all 3 F54's have the oil pans as Jeff described. I didn't even pick that up. Not sure now, if the L24 pan will fit with the oil pick up from the F54 or not. There is no clearance issues whatsoever in the 240Z's, and I don't know why there would be any on the S130's either. When my block comes home from the machine shop, I'll try a 240Z pan with the F54 pick up......see if they inter change.

Thanks Leon....that would make sense....was it a turbo in it's former life Jeff?

Steve.....I asked the same question. I've built 3 F54 blocked ZX motors to date. The oil pick up and oil pans have all been interchangeable between the 240Z engines and F54 engines. It was news to me that the oil pick up and oil pan on Jeff's engine was different between his 75 L28 and the 82 F54 ZX motor. Anyone else ever run into this?

Looks good Jeff.....no erosion of water passages. Something about a fresh machined engine.....gives me goosebumps!

Remove the starter and put a flathead screwdriver in a flywheel gear till it locks against the tranny housing. Torque the crank bolt to spec. This obviously takes two people.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-zcar-discussion/25643-total-restoration-project-71-a-2.html Check page 2 to see what can be done. My frame shop replaced the whole front driver side clip on the 71. You do need a competent frame shop to do it so everything lines up, but it can be done. Now is it worth it? That's why it's so important to pay up for a good chassis.

End of the first week....Chuck is starting at the driver side corner, working forward. I'll post pics at the end of each week.

OZ.....Good to hear from you again Mate. Yes, this engine is exactly what you and I discussed several years back ........we thought it would be fun, and we were right. It doesn't feel like it's got quite the low end torque as the longer stroke L28 crank, but the smoothness and quickness to 7000 are awesome! I highly recommend it......the modern head (shaved P79) with the short stroke L24 crank and rods are a great combination. I liked it so much, I'm doing it again. Hope you and the family are good.....keep dodging those Wallabies! Guy BTW.....Yes I love motors......can't have too many motors....I've got nine extras.

Low compression (leaking valves) were my first choice.....his characteristics are exactly what a car with a couple bent valves or too tightly adjusted valves exhibit. He said the only thing he did was adjust the valves.....well maybe that did it. Also, he did a compression check.....do it again....you've tried everything else. In all the higher compression ratio engines I've built, I've never gotten a reading of over 185 lbs., he got 215....on a stock engine.....wow...maybe a bad gauge? Regardless, I'd run another compression check. IMO