Diseazd

Zed....What you just said makes a lot of sense....If the pressure plate, collar, arm and slave cylinder are all 280z stuff, the system should work. The one thing that is a question mark is why is the slave cylinder linkage not moving enough? The only thing left is the clutch master cylinder. If the distance pushed on the piston in the M/C isn't enough to push the needed fluid to push the piston in the slave cylinder, it would be possible that the M/C is wrong, or that there is air in the system.....make sense? He's confirmed measurements are correct on pressure plate and collar, and has tried two different slave cylinders. If the push rod in the slave cylinder is touching the clutch arm now, then an adjustable 240Z slave cylinder isn't going to give you a longer push than what you have now. Awconroy.....Are you sure the clutch master cylinder is correct? You said it was bled....try it again. What else could it be?

I give up......seems like it's got to be in the master cylinder or a bleed problem......you've already tried two slave cylinders. What else could it be?

R u sure about 8 3/4? Seems like 7 inches comes to mind on the 240....just from memory.

It seems to me if the clutch, collar and fork and slave cylinder are all from a 280Z ( these have been confirmed) the clutch should work. I always install 240Z clutches in my 4 and 5 speed transmissions, so I use the collar, fork, pressure plate/disc, and slave cylinder from the 240Z with the ability to adjust. I've never installed a 280Z clutch, but with no hole for the plunger rod to go through the fork, there is obviosly no adjustment. From what I understand, awconroy is saying with all his 280Z clutch parts assembled, the fork arm still has an inch or so of play between the end of the plunger rod and the contact dimple in the fork arm. I suggest that he drill a hole in the center of the dimple so an early 240Z slave cylinder could be used to give you adjustment to take up the slack ( I set mine at 1/8 inches clearance). That being said, he needs to drill a hole slightly larger than the slave plunger rod diameter in the clutch fork dimple and install a 240Z slave cylinder....you could then adjust the plunger rod to attain the 1/8 inch clearance that the FSM calls for. Still have no idea why his existing set up doesn't work. Make sense?

No I haven't driven a sidedraft Z.......My son had a Rebello Mikuni 2 liter 510 and it was fun....sound and performance. I am also impressed with the simplicity and performance of the SU carb......Bruce Palmer...don't lose any sleep...I'm your biggest fan!

Steve.....I'm not looking for obscene numbers, just something "fun to drive" and these engines are a ball. I really like the simplicity of the SU's.......don't really want to get into jets, bleed valves etc. etc. For what I'm looking for, street performance, these engines fill the bill. I would like to build a stroker motor someday, but right now I'm motored out. The mix/match L24/L28's are quite a bit different from the straight L24's......might have something to do with the bore to stroke ratio you get with the big bore L28 blocks.

Jeff....My friends dyno still isn't set up....my guess is 170 at the wheels. It runs best at 18 degrees advance at idle. I love the combo of short stroke and bigger CID. It's a really smooth engine. I'm running this combination in the orange and gold car while the white and green car are running the L28 crank and rods .....all 4 L28's are running shaved and shimmed P79 heads with stainless swirl valves and Isky Stage III cams. The silver 73 is running a .040 over L24 with an E31 head with L28 valves and an Isky Stage II cam.

Put 50 miles on the new engine......runs great....I haven't pushed it yet, but will soon.

Pull the front cover and you risk futzing up the head gasket, the oil pan gasket and the front cover gasket. If you pry out the seal carefully, you can probably reuse it. I recommend my method.

It works with the damper and seal to keep oil from leaking. You can get to it rather easily if you think you may have put it on backwards. Pull the damper, pop out the seal and remove the slinger. If backwards, simply reinstall correctly, tap in a new seal and replace the damper. You should then be able to install the spindle easily.

Did you possibly install the oil slinger in backwards?

Sorry....I checked the records...110 was a 72 color.

Question.....I don't recall you giving the paint code number. Was the code 905, or was it a different code number red? There was a lighter shade of red.....I think it was called Persimmon Red (code 110)...I believe those cars came with a white interior. Which code number was yours originally?

Zedy......The so called curved bar was so that the diff could be moved back in the later Z's to move the half shafts back so they didn't come out at an angle. Your Z is obviously an early 71 with the straight bar and the short driveshaft. While you've got the diff out, you could get the curved bar, longer driveshaft and fix the early angular flaw. Simply install the curved hangar, longer driveshaft, late style diff mount and flip the mustache bar and you're updated. You can get the used parts at a Z wrecking yard. BTW .....installing the R/T mount in the early Z's (your Z) requires mods to the mount for clearance purposes.

I restored a 67 912 Porsche in Guards Red. Under flourescent light, I told the painter he had screwed it up.....it looked orange. When he had put it back together and rolled it out in natural light, it turned Guard's Red........amazing!

Color looks great........I wouldn't change a thing. I'll look even better when you get the chrome and emblems go back on! Nice job.

Would anyone else other than me like to see a picture before they "make the call"?

How about a picture?

Good luck.....So sorry you had that problem....hope you get things straightened out!

git......Something doesn't add up with your block. It would take a total idiot of a machinist to tap out a bolt hole with the wrong size. You do know that there are two different length head bolts.....right? Where did you get the head bolts? Sorry to hear about this problem. Motorsports is a good source for head bolts....I always use the turbo head bolts....they take more ft. lbs. of torque.

Install Tokico shocks, Eibach springs and replace the bushings with rubber original rubber bushings. Keep the stock brakes ( rebuild of course ). New rotors and pads are dirt cheap. While everything is apart, clean up and paint the suspension. Very rare to have an original owner.....good luck. All of this IMO

Dowell pin on the cam should be straight up (12 o'clock) and the woodruff key on the crank should be straight up (12 o'clock). Everything will be correct if this is done. Come on SteveJ ......tell him to download a factory service manual! :ogre:

The O ring goes against the round grove in the tank, the face of the sending unit goes on next and the clamp snugs the metal face against the O ring snugged up against the tank. Vaseline will hold it in place while you stick the float arm thru the O ring into the tank.

Nice gold Z behind Pete's Steve....

Looks just like Eiji's custom pistons and rods.....wow.....don't think you'd be running pump gas with those chambers!