Diseazd

.......and the definition of a restored Z vary by a wide degree. A professionally restored Z......done by crafstsmen, the correct way, will bring between $30,000.00 to $50,000.00. That's the good news. The bad news is the restoration costs will probably be much higher than the return. Most cars on EBay advertised as restored, need a total restoration IMO.

Puff your chest out Carl .......Jeff..You can have your choice for a bizillion! A pretty accurate pricing guide that I've found is that an early 240Z is worth about 75% of what you've invested......not counting your own time!

Not sure, but I think Les at Classic Datsun sells their stuff. Why not order from him if he does?

Yes.....But your early Z has the short drive shaft......so you'll need another early Z manual or auto driveshaft. Why not try the spacers first.....a lot easier to eliminate alignment of the driveshaft ends first. If someone removed the mount without replacing the spacer, that could easily be your problem. BTW....beautiful car! PS.....make sure the PO didn't already move the diff rearward.....in that case you would need the 72-73 longer driveshaft.

When I swapped out my 72 from auto to manual, there was a spacer between the tranny mount and tranny. Make sure your mount has this spacer.....it makes all the difference in alignment of the drive shaft.

Gather all of the parts that need plating.....clean them up with carb cleaner.....never use steel wool or sandpaper. DatsunSpirit is in Manassas. Don't know for sure, but would bet Eiji would throw your stuff in with his next batch. His cad plating is very,very nice!

Carb linkage should never be painted IMO. You want it to operate smoothly with no binding. Either leave it like it is, or have it plated. Eiji at DatsunSpirit in your neck of the woods may be able to help you with plating.

E31 with stock valves and seats.....not L28 valves and seats. Good Luck ole boy....takes a while to figure out what works and doesn't work with these cars.

Eddy....If you're going to put a head on for the 2500 mile trip to the resto shop, go with the E88 or E31. If you install the N42 or N47 head (with the larger L28 valves, you'll need one of two things). 1) bore it out at least .030 inches so the exhaust valve clears the side of the L24 standard bore block or 2) notch the side of the cylinder to allow valve clearance. Install the E88 or E31 and you can bolt it right up with no clearance issues if you go back with the stock L24 valves. Once you decide for sure which head you'll use, our knowledgeable members will advise you on further needed steps.

Jeff is talking a P79 head with deep chambers. Don't think for a minute you can shave .050 inches off of an E88 or E31. You don't want to contact the valves against the pistons. Like Steve suggested.....get a copy of "How to Modify the Datsun 240Z and 510". I believe (but not sure), that you don't want to take off more than .030 inches with a stock gasket.

Same here.....black Phillips....no washer.

Looks like it must of come from the small hole between the cylinders, or possibly the larger hole opposite the side of your red arrow....the way it was eaten away from that direction. I've seen it eat the metal ring in the gasket and get in that way. Still have the old gasket? Too bad....looks like a nice head other than that.

Eddy....Check the two water passages adjacent to number 3.....see if you can see any etching along the gasket surface into the cylinder. If so, it needs to be milled out if you reuse the head. That's where the water would enter the cylinder. Number 6 has a big water jacket and therefore that's where it usually occurs.

Just wondering....any other brave tasks you're taking on mate? Like wrestling a 16 foot crock or boxing a kangeroo? It is a low number and it'll be fun watching you take her apart. Good Luck.....if you run into Ozconnection, give him my best!

Not necessarily......the electrolysis eats a little tunnel under the gasket, into the combustion chamber. The water continues to eat aluminum and other metal. I had one do the same thing. Can't remember whether it was 5 or 6. It's like an electric current flows through the water and slowly eats metal like a weak acid. Probably has something to do with the electrical system being neg ground and a very small short in the circuit somewhere. Like I said SteveJ is our resident electrical guru and could probably explain it. The head can be welded, ground down and new seats installed. You need a pro though....don't want to warp the head. Good Luck Guy

That looks like electrolysis......Never use tap water or well water in your radiator...use distilled water and anti freeze. The metals and other contaminants in H2O cause an electrical reaction that eventually eats a little tunnel under the head gasket and gets in the cylinder. It reacts with aluminum and other metals and eats it away. This usually happens when the car is sitting for a long time. I'll bet SteveJ can help with this.

Glad it's you and not me! :tapemouth

Save the Z for Zedytwo_kenobi.......borrow the money to buy the Alpha. Gotta admit....the yellow one is beautiful!

Replace 'em.....w/o lead additives, they'll be pounded out shortly. IMO

Very cool....the car closed the deal!

Wael.....Are these wheels going on a 240z or your 280ZX? If they are going on your 280ZX, you'll have a completely different result than on a 240Z. BTW....you guys in Q8 have some nice Datsuns!

225 50 16"s with 0 offset Panasports...... This car would rub until I installed coilovers and tucked them under the fenders with camber adjustment. If I change tires, I'm going to install 205 55 16's........best tire IMHO....good wheel well fill with no rub issues. :classic:

205 55 16 with 0 Panasports.......no problems! :bulb:

205 55 16 tires with +6 Panasports.....no problems! :bulb:

Has anyone purchased the bumpers at Black Dragon? If so.....how was the quality?