GreenZZZ

My favorite mods in random order; Unilite distributor, 16" Panasports (thinner sidewalls really help), SU carb throttle shaft bearings (ZTherapy), E31 head, R200 3.9 rear end and 5 speed tranny, Dave's stuff (headlight wiring upgrade, RT diff mount, 280ZX alternator), Honda heater fan, urethane tranny bushings, sway bars, ATE Super Blue brake fluid.

My stuck valve was a Grose jet. It happened after the car was sitting for a year so I cleaned it and still run the Grose jet. That was about 10 years ago and no other incidents.

I just noticed that BJHines drilled a hole in squirrel cage probably to vent the blower motor. I'm cross posting his photos from the heater restore thread. Anyone else doing this? Just curious, I'm doing this subassembly right now.

Bad wiring to or a failed O2 sensor will do that.

My thougts are: No matter what, you are dealing with plastic that was pored 40 years ago and it is probably 25 years past its life expectancy. It will crack. Red with white interior car? Looks nice!

I had a float bowl needle valve stick open and it leaked while the car was running. I was lucky it didn't burn the car up.

Agreed. The floor plugs, squeegees, and seat cushion guard would all sell well I think.

Move the temperature control knob and watch the flaps move. You will probably see one flap is moving and one is stuck open or closed. Usually the passenger side flap will rust up and not articulate due to the water heater lines being located on that side and a coolant leak getting them wet. Sometimes the driver side flap will rust up if the heater core leaks on that side. Sometimes the rod inside the heater box which connects to the flap comes off due to a badly done heatercore repair done in the past. Get a flashlight, move the temp knob, watch what the flaps do, free any debris restricting movement of the flap if there is any, report back.

Check out this thread that shows how the flaps operate. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23409 Mine had to be pulled, blasted, painted, repadded. Took a LONG time to do the job.

Dashboards

I'll do POR over powder. You can hammer on it and it stays there. Looks pretty good too. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=32786&ppuser=14083

I've used VersaChem 13 and Koppercoat liberally, instead of sparingly for 25 years. Never had a bolt backoff with vibration or seize with corrosion. Works great on exhaust fasteners too. I started playing with using this in minute amounts on brake line fasteners last year so it doesn't foul the fluid.

Stuck PCV valve would do it.

Makes me wonder what busted it. I'd look very carefully at the body shell and the rest of the suspension. Something really whacked it to do that much carnage. I also have a R200 in my '72 with the stock mount.

I'm with Dave, car looks fantastic! Nice job. Drives good?

The 4 speed pulled from my '72 has a plate on the top of it next to the reverse light. The 5 speed has the switch mounted elsewhere and no plate on the top. The 5 speed showed up at a Z shop on a palate from Japan in the mid 80's so it is probably from a Nissan pickup in the Japanese market.

It felt like I got 5-10% more horsepower after the alternator upgrade even though I didn't hit an RPM wall prior to the upgrade. I run 92-93 octane with an E31 head.

I'm predicting you set it at 3.0 and love it!

The way I see it... Cutting the edge off a piece of sheet metal with a dremmel and a steady hand leaves a tiny line of exposed metal to hit with a QueueTip dabbed with POR. Rolling a fender cracks a bunch of old paint. BTW, I'm running Yokohama ES100 225/50/16 tires as well.

Curious about this tuff kote job. Is it in the rocker and in the rear fender well behind the doglog? If so, the shell is probably in real good shape I'm shooting 113 hopefully real soon. Love that color