Z train

Batteries are one of the few things were the biggest one is the right one.

First thought is corrosion.Second is you're approaching the load rating of the link.

Sorry.

http://www.peranausa.com/

SD to Pittsburgh?Wait 'till December-parts of your body that you didn't know could disappear,will.

No such thing as "too many parts".Go get more....NOW.

Couple of things: 1)pay attention to the FSM.Folks like me in Arizona,the book calls for 140 weight.And 20/50 in the engine. 2)Make sure the vent on the trans is clear and operational.If it is plugged,the lube/vapor would have no other place to go than the shift opening.This goes for rearends too.Except when this vent gets plugged,the oil gets pushed past gaskets &seals.

Listen real close to the wording of the narrative.

....x2

THe Factory FI is a good piece.In it's day it had no rival especially from Detroit.You are letting a tiny problem steer you into massive $$ outlay when all you need to do is fix the existing FI.Parts are available and not that $$$$.Switching fuel delivery systems because of a "time table issue" on your part is really not a good idea. And if it is a timing issue,you'll still have the same problem and much llikely worse.

Yes.HOWEVER......Classic car policies have mileage restrictions & other limitations.And if you wreck it on your way to work-you're screwed. And you will still have an issue with the car that needs addressing.

ANY car in Arizona 15 years old or older that is insured under a "Classic Car policy"is emissions testing exempt.ALL motorcycles in the state DO NOT have to be tested unless you are in Maricopa County

Yours is a California car.And you're stuck with the Cat.CSV is the COLD START VALVE. Timing has to be right as a basis for everything else.Get a temp tag for the car. and lower your blood pressure a bit.

Last ditch effort-borrow someone's MSD box.

From some reason,the old adage"if it's too good to be true".....comes to mind.The suspicious bastard that i am.

I agree with Mr.Blake-however, being in Phoenix,you will lose nothing by pinching off the CSV line.It is POSSIBLE(however remotely)that the CSV could be dribbling just enough to screw up the idle

First thing you do is Seafoam the motor.

Interesting.That's 6 bucks cheaper than the local shop doing mine.

Throwing synthetic in a high milage motor with a KNOWN history is a crap shoot at best.But in a motor with UN-KNOWN history?......

If the underside is sound,your life is gonna be a lot easier.Everything else is easily replaceable.The only place i's use synthetic is the rear-end & gearbox.I would Seafoam the snot out of that motor.

If that sticker is to be believed,Eastern New York.

5 bills?Don't let the bank door hit you in the arse on the way out!

As good as J-B weld or other like products are,"thermal cycling" dooms them to eventual failure.Take the cover off.get it in spected & welded and be done with it for good.

You're kidding-right?

THe chain does stretch.Hence hole numbers 2 & 3 in the cam sprocket.