reddie73

Lots of discussions on this issue. You can do a search and find a lot of suggestions to get the clutch working. Since their is no bleed on the clutch master try pumping the pedal then loosening the hard line at the master. Bleed the same way as the slave until you get a steady stream of fluid, then move to the slave and bleed it. After bleeding the master in this manner the clutch pedal should be firm or firmer than when you started. Also you might want to take compressed air and with the hard line loose on the master and slave , blow air through the hard line. Could be rust crud in the hard line. You might also want to replace the rubber line going from the hard line to the slave.

Try starting at the master cylinder first to bleed the system. Pump the clutch pedal then loosen the hard line going from the master to the slave. Do this until you get a stream of fluid coming from the loosened line. You should also start to have some resistance in the clutch pedal.Don't take the line completely off , just loosen enough so the fluid and air will come out. I placed some rags and a metal can under the master cylinder to catch the fluid. I've had success with this and a long time Z car mechanic told me to try this method. I must say that these cars are a pain to get air from the clutch system.

I now have a working clutch after putting another master cylinder on and a kit in the slave.The master I replaced was new and the slave was also new. I also blew out the hard line going from the master to the slave and bled the system. The pedal is pretty tight, but the car moves and the clutch engages about 1 inch or so from the floor. I'm sure I'll need some adjusting , but at least it is working. Thanks for all of the responses to this, I really appreciate it.

It is also easier to install with the hatch removed from your car. I wouldn't say it's impossible to replace the weatherstripping without the hatch removed, but it would be very messey.

Stop by a graphic design shop, one that does decals, stripes etc and talk to them about applying the decal. I think basicially you apply water to the area you are placing the decal , take off the backing (just enough to start) ,spray more water if needed , remove more backing and use a squeege to smooth the decal and remove air bubbles. While you are at the graphic design shop you might ask how much they would charge to apply this. Their use to be shops called Trimline that did window tinting, pinstriping and decals that might also be a source.

If you have little or no undercoating I would agree with Oiluj on not adding more. As for the rust I have used POR-15 on nearly every car I've restored. I would knock of any heavy rust and apply the POR-15 over the area. You could coat the entire underside floor pans and you can paint over it should you want to match your cars color. POR-15 makes a variety of products for rust prevention, cleaning, gas tank sealing etc.

The old pressure plate is 7/8 inch thick. I went to a repair shop in Little Rock, Arkansas where the owner has worked on Z cars for 30 plus years and talked to him. He told me he had always used the same collar that came out of the car when he replaced the clutch. I showed him the one I used and he didn't think the longer collar would cause the problem. He thought it sounded like I still had air in the system. He told me to bleed the master cylinder by pumping the pedal, holding it down and loosening the hard line and to do this until no air came out, then go to the slave cylinder and bleed it. I tried this and still no decent pedal feel or engagement when the engine is runing. He asked me about the fork condition as well as the pivot ball and I told him they looked to be okay. He said the pivot ball could be cracked as well as the fork. I've looked at these and they look to be okay. I have another new master cylinder that I took off because of the length of the rod and connecting it to the clutch pedal for adjustment. I still feel like their is not enough pressure when the clutch pedal is pushed in to engage the release bearing against the clutch fingers. As much as I've bled the clutch I can't believe their could still be air in the system.

Below is the reason for the use of the longer sleeve on the release bearing. Althouth I haven't swaped transmisions like the question asker Cutlass 372, I am having the same issues after putting in the new clutch pressure plate with a thinner pressure plate than the one I took out. Yes. The original clutch Pressure Plate used in the 240-Z's was thicker - so it needed the shorter sleeve. If you order a Clutch Pressure Plate for a Datsun 240-Z today, from your Nissan Dealer (as well as most aftermarket sources here in the US) you will get a Pressure Plate that "fits" 240Z, 260Z, 280Z and 280ZX models. Over the years all sources have consolidated what were many different parts - into one part, that does the job for all. That one part is actually the 280Z Pressure Plate. If you are dealing with a knowledgeable Nissan Parts Counterman - they will tell you to order the 280Z throw-out bearing sleeve, when you order a new Clutch Pressure Plate for the 240-Z - - because they know they don't actually get the old style 240Z parts any longer... Yes - the 280Z Pressure Plate has greater clamping force than the original 240Z Pressure Plates. The 280Z Pressure Plate has less clamping force than the 280Z / ZX 2+2 unit - but to use the 2+2 Clutch Assy. you need to install the flywheel from the 2+2 (it is a larger diameter machined surface for a larger diameter clutch disc and Pressure Plate... For anything other than all out racing - dollar for dollar it's hard to beat the OEM 280Z Clutch Assy (Pressure Plate + Clutch Disc). For Drag Racing the 2+2 set up offers a little more durability and higher clamping force. FWIW, Carl B. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Last edited by Carl Beck; 05-08-2008 at 01:35 PM..

The clutch kit is 60-000 for the 70-75 240-260Z.The box shows 8-7/8" on it. The distance from the back of the slave to contact with the fingers on the clutch is 1 3/4 ". I had the smaller collar on the car and worked for quite some time trying to get the clutch to work properly and last week I took the transmision out, ordered the different collar and put everything back together. The collar that was on the car when I bought it is the one I used with the new bearing in the clutch kit. If I'm not sure about installing a part I look on this site or in one of my two manuals for reference. When I got the car to go into gear while running the adjustment was closest to the back of the slave cylinder with the spring on it still had more than an inch before the lock nut would hit the rubber boot. The article about the collars show 4 collars and one is for a 5 speed, so I've tried the longest and shortest, so the only one left is the middle one (kinda like the three little bears) which it shows as L26-Unknown under the picture. The difference in the Type A and the L26 is very minimal and even the Type B collar is not that much difference in the dimensions considering they are millimeters.

The 280Z release bearing sleeve was used because in another archive on this site it said the original 240Z clutch pressure plate was thicker than the ones that are sold to replace them. The replacement pressure plates fit 240,260 and 280, thus the need for the longer sleeve. The clutch kit is from Black Dragon (Rhino) , the master cylinder and slave are from Courtesy Nissan. The new sleeve/bearing came as an assembly from Black Dragon for a 280Z and is longer than the one I had that was on the car, which was from Black Dragon. I don't think the clutch disc is on backwards and the bearing is making contact, I just don't think with enough force to push the fingers on the disc. I have the pressure plate and disc that was on the car when I bought it for reference/compare to the new pressure plate and disc. The slave is the adjustable correct one for the car. The fork is the one that was on the car and has the hole in it for the adjusting rod etc. I have gotten the car into first and second with it running , but could not go into 3rd or 4th. I'm wondering if the master or slave could be the problem even though I don't see a leak from either. I also tried bench bleeding the master during the bleeding process.

1971 240Z I replaced the clutch pressure plate, throwout bearing, bearing sleeve with a longer 280Z sleeve per information in another thread. I have bled the slave cylinder numerous times with pressure bleader as well as with the wife pushing the pedal down method. The pedal still feels to easy to push down, but the relase fork is moving the rod on the slave. I have adjusted the rod a number of times and can change gears with the engine off, but have not been able to change gears with the engine running and still on jack stands. I don't know what I'm missing with the adjustment of the rod. I've also adjusted the clutch pedal to 8" from the floorboard. New master cylinder, slave cylinder, etc. I compared the old pressure plate to the new one and the new one is thinner than the old one that had the shorter release bearing sleeve, thus the reason for using the longer 280Z sleeve. I've searched the archive and have gotten some good information, but thought someone out there might have some input or suggestions.

The Z-Barn might have this 800-247-2793. I would check at the salvage yard for this.

I tried the chrome pin stripe tape on mine and it looks pretty decent, but the main problem is getting the tape to lay down/stick to the curved molding on the door panels. I also tried applying contact cement to the chrome tape hoping it might form to the curved molding. The contact cement worked, but was a messy job and I was affraid of getting the cement on the door panels. I'm also not sure how well the tape would hold up in summer heat. Mine hasn't come loose and unless you get close you don't notice it is not comformed to the curve of the molding.

The clutch pedal on my 1971 240Z was changed out with one from a 1972-73 due to the pivot pin hole being in better shape. The clutch master cylinder rod had plenty of adjustment after the 72-73 pedal swap, but when the pedal was pushed to the floor it didn't hit the rubber on the stop plate. I reinstalled the clutch pedal that was on the car when I bought it and the pedal hits the stop, but the pedal heighth is now at least an inch lower than the brake pedal. I've bled the clutch several times using various methods. Has anyone had a problem with the pedal swap or have an idea on the pedal as well as the ease of pushing the clutch down. The car is being restored and I have not started it . New master cylinder and slave cylinder.

Another place to check is the passenger side strut tower where the vaccum lines go to two senders and then to the plastic vaccum tank. I've had a split in this area that has caused this problem on my 1977 280Z.

I replaced the guage with one from a salvage yard 77 280Z and also replaced the oil/fuel guage while I was at it. All is working fine and since buying the 77 the oil pressure guage never gave what I thought the pressure should be, but I thought it was the sending unit on the engine. Now with the used guage the oil pressure is reading correctly. I got both guages for $ 20.00.

I agree with grif260z. My 71 had melted from the back side and I got epoxy glue and filled in around the back where the wire was and the fuse holder is stable now and works fine. I also pulled a console and fuse box from a wrecking yard 72 and the same thing on that fuse box, melted on the back side. Doesn't sound like a ground if the taillights are working, but I would check it anyway.

Thanks for the reply on this. I just didn't think the gauge from the 71 was working correctly, but wanted another opinion. I'll get another one from a salvage car I have access to.

I did about the same thing you have done with your fuel system in regards to the tank FPR, filter etc. Check the small screen in the fuel pump for debris. Look in the phone book and see if you can locate a fuel injection repair shop and take the injectors to them for cleaning and flow testing. I took mine to a shop that specializes in fuel injection systems and they charged $ 20.00 for cleaning each injector and doing the flow test. I came back in about 2 hours and picked my injectors up.

I replaced the temp/oil pressure gauge in my 77 280Z with a gauge from my 71 240Z. The connector from the 71 gauge was replaced with the one from the 77 280Z so it would plug into the wiring. I'm not so sure the gauge is working properly and wondered if this had anything to do with the difference in the gauges . The back of the 71 gauge has the same number of connection points as the 77 gauge. Has anyone tried this swap or would it be best to get a gauge from a salvage 77 280Z?

Check the fuse for the fuel injection. Check the fuel injection relays. Check the fuel presure regulator. . Their is a Fuel Injection Bible on this site or another that I have seen. Their is also a small screen inside the fuel pump on the line going to the front of the car and it could be partially clogged. The gas tank could also have rust in it if the car has set for some time. If you see rust in the fuel filter or the small screen it would be a good idea to have the gas tank flushed and sealed. Just some ideas.

I have a new master cylinder from Courtesy Nissan that is the large reservoir in the front. I would be interested in the lines if you want to sell them. Contact me norrisrx7@suddenlink.net.

I'm having a problem with the hard line going from the brake master cylinder to the proportioning valve on my 71 240Z. The previous owner cut the original lines and I've bought several lines that were already flared and had the end fittings. The length of the lines have been 12 inch aluminum and steel lines that I bent to try and fit. I can't seem to get the line to seal properly. I've tried several times and all eventually seep fluid. I've tried teflon tape on the end fittings ,but they still seep fluid. The you bend lines come in 12, 18 and up inch lengthes. Does anyone have any suggestions that might help?

My tank has about 3 gallons of gas in it, but the gauge is reading full. I have new sending unit, black wire attached to pin on sending unit marked G, yellow wire attached to other pin. Tried reversing wires and no reading at all. Any suggestions ?

I have used a heat gun/hair dryer to make the rubber easier to slide off or on the connector. I have used this method on a number of the connectors on my cars.