geezer

Mike, I was cataloging some spare parts and packing them away when I came across a set of the long luggage straps. They also are woven from the heavier/coarse material you have described. These came from a '70 parts car. From the looks of these, they have never been extended. I think I got a good pic of the weave texture.

I find it astounding how many wheel options were available for Z's early on. I know Appliance had at least a half dozen designs to choose from also. It would be interesting to list all the manufacturers and their vintage offerings, if it hasn't been done. Worldwide, there were probably quite a few I've never seen. Great thread Mike!

Here are a couple more from Shelby to round out their vintage lineup, although I'm guessing these two came a few years later. The first scan is the Shelby Serpent (sorry, no specs). In the second scan, on the right, the Shelby Diamondback was designed with offset for maximum fenderwell clearance. This wheel was available as 13x5, 14x6 and 14x7. The Viper & Diamondback wheels are shown mounted with Shelby tires.

Ha Ha,,,Rick will have to dig this up when he gets back in a few weeks, but we appreciate it. I couldn't help thinking that a 1964 would be a major upgrade for some of us though!:stupid:

The Suspension Techniques lowering springs available today for '70-'73 are progressive spring rate, will lower the car 1" and cost in the neighborhood of $175.00 a set. I have a ST set from the mid '80s for '70-'73. Both front and rears are linear spring rate. The rears have labels attached to identify them as such, no labels on the fronts and no part numbers are visable. They were mated with a set of Konis and were on my car when I bought it. I haven't been able to find out anything else about them. If you look in my gallery you can see how the car sat with them installed. Are the ones you have linear also? No indication what model years they fit? Edit-Didn't see your post before mine. I have it backwards..the fronts are labeled, not the rears.

Truly, the jewel of Seattle! Beautiful car indeed. The Shelby Viper wheels look great. Good score on the center caps. I agree, save the D caps for showing her.

You see these stick on emblems on Ebay available in two sizes. 1.50" and 1.75" I think. They are available in different styles. MSA has the Z emblems. The caps look good done up this way and all that matters is that you like them. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-WHEELS-EMBLEMS-240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-B210-Z-CAR_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43961QQihZ011QQitemZ320258698816QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

I just had a look at mine from a 10/70 which are still tagged in a baggie. They are the standard flat black oxide finish. I tried to remove some of the finish to reveal what you describe, but couldn't.

Very nice Arne! The spook looks good body color also. Everything seems to have fallen into place nicely in a short amount of time.

Bummer Jason, If it isn't one thing it's...

$40.00? Dang that sure seems a bit pricey for a bolt & washer package. Anyone know what the difference is between this and the stock bolt & washer?

Welcome Dave, lots of work to be done and lots of information at our fingertips on this site. Either someone is doing it or has done it. Good luck with the project.

Sure does! I've heard the view is even better from the other side of the windshield when you get the wheels moving.

I'm not familiar with the testing proceedures used for these gauges and don't know what the voltage reading should be at the VR (limiter), but if you feed it a ground in place of the transmitter wire it should peg the needle. If not I would suspect the gauge itself as being at fault. That's just my guess. You need to hear from someone that is familiar with a tried and true method of testing these.

E, I don't have a lot of experience working with or testing these gauges but I know that less resistance will result in a higher current flow, which will make the gauge read higher as the temperature or pressure rises. So yes, I would say the sensors decreases resistance as the temperature or pressure rises.

Either you like it, don't, or are indifferent. There is no right or wrong as long as we live in a "free country" where we do with ouir property as we wish. Just be prepared to reap the wrath of people's likewise "free speech".

An explanation is in order here. Both Carl & I recognized the location these pics were taken as the same used by another seller. That, and this seller having a 0 feedback immediately put up a red flag. I apologize if this erroneous warning caused any inconvenience to the seller or potential buyers. The protection of our members was foremost in my mind. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-911-1989-PORSCHE-911-TURBO-CABRIOLET-W-363-ORIGINAL-MILES_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ10156QQihZ020QQitemZ300227124596QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

You got a great deal! It's been my experience that if you keep putting in low bids, sooner or later they fall into your lap. The Body & Chassis manuals come up for auction regularly. About a year ago I won one in incredible condition on Ebay for $10.00 plus shipping. In between the pages I found the bill of sale for the manual.

I've seen several cars up for auction that were poised in front of this very garage, but not by this seller. The name of the other seller escapes me. I agree..SCAM!!

Sorry Carl, I'm an arse. I resisted the urge on Post #23 but the perfect straight man lead in got me.:stupid:

Not Me! I found out I'm wearing a hat that says "I NEED A TUG"!:classic:

Good tip Dan. I once had this same problem with different car. The unibody subframe was so deteriated and weakened, I had to jack the car up from underneath in proximity to the door latch before the stress was relieved enough to allow the latch to release. Don't know if this is relevant in your case though.

The 240Z Dynamic Dampener used on the cars with automatics, that was provided on request was Part # 55490-E8300. A much more refined piece than the other type. This illustration depicts the parts in the kit that was provided to the dealer and installed, on a customer complaint basis only. The crude layered steel plate Dampeners that came later were Part # 55418-N33000 (up to 12/74) & Part # 55418-N3701 (after 12/74). Details on the use of these are somewhat sketchy but they look to be a quick fix, used to correct sporatic vibrations and installed by the dealer also.

A solid rumble in the rear that occurs between 65 - 70mph. Does it go away after 70 mph or are you just describing the speed range it begins? Two possibilities come to mind. A driveshaft that is out of balance will cause vibrations at varying speeds. A good test to rule this in or out that has worked for me is, using a large gear clamp on the driveshaft that you can rotate in increments to try to achieve a balance. Also if the vibration comes in at between 65-70 mph and is constant and increasingly worse at higher speeds, look for belt separation in one of your rear tires. Use a spare to rule this in or out. I have found a Nissan publication describing the 240Z Dampener Installation. It was the "fix" for automatic transmission equipt vehicles that had vibration problems arising from body bending frequencies and the bouncing and pitching motion of the differential mounting and also torsional motion of the power train. Is your car an automatic? Apparently the dampner was only fitted at the dealership if there was a customer complaint. That explains why some have them and some don't.