zKars

More great break down pictures, this time from AutoZone. What is unique is the text that describes every part. All of the Nissan parts catalog pages I've seen just show the reference numbers. https://www.autozone.com/repairguides/Nissan-Pick-ups-and-Pathfinder-1970-1988/MANUAL-TRANSMISSION/Transmission/_/P-0900c1528004f739 This page also gives you C type trans pictures and STEP by STEP instructions for break down and re-assembly.

Today there is a request for hazard switches in the classified forums which leads me to go to the stash and see what I have to help. Pawing through the group, I see plenty of differences. Of course this brings up more questions. We know about the change to the back lit, round pull knob style switch on the North American 240's in 73, and the shorter wires on the 72 switch (6 pin connector wires), but I was surprised by a couple of differences I didn't know about. The marking on the handles vary, and most surprisingly, as does the angle of the switch's bat style handle from one to the next in either position. All of these are the long lead variety, but there are at least three different marking styles. We likely discussed this before. I suspect the center is oldest, (one triangle), the right second oldest, and third, newest. All of the short lead switches I have share the markings of the switch on the left. All fancy and most clearly marked, must make things "better" don't we? But what surprised me the most was the difference in handle angles in the off and on positions, comparing across all three switches. The first pic has them all in the "ON" position, the second "OFF" Well the handles are simply bent you say from repeated use you'd likely say. I say NOT. Look at the thickness of the metal of the handle. It is both thick and oriented so that its rectangular cross section has the most bend resistant width in line with direction of motion. NO WAY you could bend that metal without doing damage to the switch mechanism. All switches click nicely into both on and off positions. Nothing wonky or loose inside. Let the speculation begin!

http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/Transmission2.htm Sure enough, its the 1-2 rod that's larger. 16mm vs 14mm But a little 1mm thick bushing could be used to make the C fork "fit" the B rod. Never say die!

And then you find things like this: and you begin to wonder just how similar the C type transmissions are inside. Especially since, as previously mentioned, you CAN get parts for THEM Oh look, there's a couple of "C" cores out on the grass.... (actually a snow bank at the moment). Guess I know what I'm doing this afternoon. Other than shoveling snow....

Now something VERY interesting. I have two 5 speeds and a 4 speed apart. I've been working on and showing pictures from the rusty one with the bad 1/2 fork. The OTHER one, now that I look at it's shift forks (the one with the totally gone counter shaft intermediate bearing) has, just as ZedHead had mentioned as a possibility, shift forks that are exactly like the ones in the 4 speed! Haven't put it on to prove it yet, tomorrow! Roll pin's in the same place by the looks of it, shape and orientation is the same, they are just steel in the 4 speed, aluminum in the 5. Well that doesn't solve my need to source a fork for the other 5 speed, its shifter rod has the dowel pin holes in different places, but you 'COULD' slide the 4 speed fork on and tack weld that sucker in place on the rod. Or drill and tap for a couple of set screws, etc etc. There is always a way! Now I'm cursing myself for all the 4 speeds I've recycled.... and those little balls for the rod detents that go astray, etc etc. Oh well. I also have to take apart a C type and see it THOSE shift forks adapt into the FS5WB.

Ok, stupid insulation is in place. Man I itch all over, but some antibiotics will cure that ? First pictures of the worn fork. Here is the "good" side of the fork so you can so the little plastic wear block with the two pins that hold it. Then the bad side. both tips have the wear block worn right off. The pins push through to the other side, so they stay in place, but look at the groove worn in the entire circumference of the fork from pushing against the selector. Here is the full shot of the bad side. Here is a repost of the shot that showed the groove and selector together so you get the full picture. You can even see the plastic pad pushed away from the fork with the pins keeping it in place. To think about a repair on this part, sure, you could weld up the new groove at the ends where the pads were (that's all that touches), and machine it back down to the right thickness, but very hard to come up with a new wear pad. How long would a newly welded bare aluminum pad last? As long as the shifting is easy and you keep your sticking mitts off the shifter when driving, maybe a long time!

I could clear this all up with a couple of pics. There is a step in the entire fork that was created after the plastic wear tip wore away. Must have been some heavy shifter leaning going on. I’m just engrossed in another shop improvement project (insulating my roof) while I wait for the trans rebuild kits to arrive. Nothing more fun than stuffing fibreglass bats between rafters 12 ft off the floor on a rikkety ladder.

Ill take better pics of the failure. yes its the plastic rub block that wore out then then groove started

Megazip is one of the companies I tried. Amayama was another Japanese company, again, No dice. Nissan parts deal indicates its discontinued. I took that as NLA.

Done. Didn't know you can do that! Just click and hold on the title text, and it turns into an edit field.

While I agree with Madkaw's statement about C types, (I have one going in my 510 shortly), they are not always as available as I'd like. They also need shifter location in the console adjustment, and shortened drive shafts, and engine mount tweaking, so not all will choose them. Given the reduced cost now of rebuilding a B type myself now vs getting someone else to do it, I will keep all the B's in my life alive until all the shift forks give out.

No big surprise here, but the two japanese sources that claimed to have new shift forks have said NLA and returned my money. Poop. Now I need someone with a trashed 5 speed that I can scavenge for parts or this entire trans is trash or will be a donor for other parts.

Yup, that tip has to get deep enough into the hole and then the tip has to move far enough back to get the rod back far enough. Needs the right length tip for sure. Out of all the 5 speed swaps I've done, to have never run across this before is down right astounding. Just another example of something new to learn every day.

Well there's definitive proof. I will grab my collection of shifters and go try some and see if we can get that sucker in 5th! I have some of those ZX shifters that have the plastic center section with the springs where the pin goes through. There certainly are differences in the pin to end of shifter ball/nylon bushing that sits in the shifter selector rod hole.

I'd love to find flashers that have adjustable volume clickers. The combination of a bit of a loud engine, small dim indicators on my Speedhut gauges and advancing age, means I leave my signals on after a non-cancelling low angle turns too often... If I could hear the tick tick tick it would help! Anybody have LED capable flashers with a loud click built in?

Purchase and successful assembly of this https://puralty.com/collections/mechanical-masterpieces/products/marble-coaster should be pre-requisite training for manual transmission rebuilding.

Okay, got a 4 speed opened up. Short answer about the fork interchange 4 vs 5 sp. No. However, the forks are the right "size" for the selector sleeve, and the rods fit through the fork holes correctly, BUT the roll pins are in different locations, both rotational and longitudinally. So you "could" interchange them IF you re-drill the rods for the pins in the right place. Simple right? They aren't hardened or anything, right? BTW the roll pins are smaller OD on the 4 speed. And since the 4 speed forks are steel, you "could" cut the rod part off and "move" it to the right place for the roll pin on the 5sp rod then weld it back on! Short answer no, but in a pinch, you know race day, car broke, final race of the season, if we could just finish the race, we get first overall, then yes, you can make it work..... You know the "C" type trans are more or less the same inside too.... Maybe their forks are backward compatible. You're going to make me take a C type apart, aren't you?

Decent quality parts blow up diagrams for the FS5W71B with the included source URL's where you can go to get detailed part numbers for every little itty bitty piece, as well as a merged in part number listing from EuroDat. trans gear and shift drawing_Land.pdf

Quick word on parts availability, in this case my badly needed 1-2 shift fork Note the list of other Nissan vehicles at the bottom that have a 32805-Q0101 Also encouraging is the Availability column. Apparently they have more than 1, the other site wasn't quite as encouraging.

Thinking back to some of the 4 speeds I've torn down and scrapped in the past, I seem to remember that the shift forks are steel not aluminum. The 1-2 fork in the five speed also has an extra hole where the 3-4 rod passes through for extra support. I do not remember that extra hole in the 4 speed fork. It may "work" if its exactly the same size, and the roll pin is in the same orientation and position. The 4 speed referenced in my parts search above isn't an FS4W but is R4W71B, so our Z four speeds may be quite bad donors for the Z 5 speeds.

Inquiring minds must know. 4 speed tear down and comparison coming. I have enough. More donors for input shaft clutch alignment tools. Those plastic POS alignment tools that come with clutch kits are, well, not good enough.

I need a 1-2 shift fork for one of the transmissions: That groove on the left edge of the fork is not supposed to be there. It can't push the selector over far enough any more to engage 2nd. Part numbers are: 32805-E9001 or superceded to 32805-Q0101 Two sources in Japan "may" have them in stock: https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya-avtomobilej/nissan/datsun-2091/720-6047/cg720-616817/shift-control-7732629# or https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/32805q0101 Listings also suggest they share with 4 speed transmissions (R4W71B reference below). As I have a couple of stock 240z 4 speeds, I'm going to open one up and see if the shift forks are the same. I also have late 280z 5 sp trans, maybe they are the same in them as well (short ears, 2 muffler hanger castings). I'm ordering both and see what shows up for Christmas

And dyslexia and or bad editing skills wins the award again for making sure nothing clear comes out of my fingers. FS5W71B is what I mean. Nothing special, just regular zx trans

Can't imagine that the shifter is the cause of not being able to get to 5th. They all work the same way. Would be a hoot if that was the actual problem. if the geometry of the shifter below the pin were a bit short and couldn't quite push it all the way in..... I won't be able to diagnose that particular 5sp until spring when I yard it out and exchange it for one of freshly rebuilt ones. I could give the guy a few different shifter styles to try and see if one of them magically works.

Tools: I hope I can edit this for a couple of days. Not going to list common stuff. Just stuff you may not have. 1. BAV attached to a BAB. (Large Vise 5 or 6" jaws, attached to Large sturdy workbench). You get to guess what BA stands for. 2. Bearing puller with splitters, large and small, with length extensions. Mine uses 3/8 course threads so I bought a bunch of Gr8 all-thread and coupler nuts. Cheap and strong enough. 3. 38mm open/box end wrench. Also 1-1/2 is just fine too. 4. Snap ring pliers. There are two thick stiff little suckers on the reverse counter gear shaft that if you don't have a proper fitting snap ring pliers, you will curse your life for hours . The tips I used are 0.090 and fit perfect. OTS makes them, sure there are many others. Don't buy cheap. see above. 5. T45 6pt star bit. 6. A press. For assembly, you may not NEED a press if you use the "heat the bearing in the oven", freeze the shaft in the freezer or snowbank, then tap together with maybe nothing more than a pipe and hammer. For disassembly bearing splitter plates and pullers do most. The main shaft has to be pushed out of the bearing in the intermediate plate, and if you had a tall enough press its easy. I'll show what I did instead below. 7. The right size magnet on a stick. Little, like 3/16 to get a couple balls out of holes. 8.