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beandip

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Everything posted by beandip

  1. Well you have come to the right place , for when you do find your Z . As for where to look , I don't know how many you will find in your area . But here in Oregon they still show up on Craig's list from time to time . 240s are becoming fewer and fewer every day . I was just at a ''bone yard '' yesterday and found 5 Z but all were either 280s or ZXs . It seems that even the 240s with sever damage are being picked up as parts cars and don't make it to the ''yards'' . California and Arizona and New Mexico seem to be areas to have a look at . Good luck in your quest . Gary
  2. Not a big project really , I just used the fuel pump to pump out any fuel that was in the tank . Just disconnected the fuel line in the engine bay and used a long length of hose to a 2 gal can . I used the gas in my other vehicle. I put the rear wheels on ramps to have plenty of room to work under the car and just removed the tank . I did use a length of 4 X 4 on my floor jack to lower the tank but it is not heavy when empty . this was only because it was more convenient . Gary
  3. Arne , arent the ITS car's required to run ''stock'' heads ? So if they are running a '70 Z the E-31 is needed ? Just a thought . I met some ITS racers at PIR and the regulations are specific on what they can remove and use on there cars. Maybe a knowledgeable ITS or SECCA racers that know this stuff will chime in. Gary
  4. I am running a MSA header 3 to 2 to1 and the 2 1/2 '' exhaust that they sell . It went right in and I didn't have any fabrication to do. If you are running a stock L-24 you do not want the 2 1/2 set up . It will lessen your power at street speeds . 2'' or 2 1/4 max would be a better choice. Both for sound and torque . You mentioned sound he headers will increase the sound level . Plus put more heat under the hood . Just a couple of factors to consider. Which ever header or manifold you end up with . Buy the gasket from Motorsport and get the heavy duty one they sell for headers. Gary PS the headder from Kmack would be a good way to go and just take the car to the muffler shop and have them do the pipeing. If they cannot mandrel bend the pipe then go with 2 1/4'' I have a Dynomax super turbo muffler on and it has great low rumble sound at idle .
  5. For less than $50.00 you can do it your self. POE-15 sells a kit for tanks.
  6. FAST ? that's a fact . They just stopped one on the freeway a while back going over 145 mph . the driver got a $1000.00 fine 3 days in the gray bar hotel and a suspended licence for 6 months and 2yrs probation .
  7. You need to take it to a frame shop and see what is what. If you are lucky it is repairable. Not knowing any more info , this is the best I can offer. It could involve the replacement of all the rear suspension . As long as the body is still straight. Sorry , Gary:( By the way welcome to the group.
  8. beandip replied to semitch's topic in Introductions
    Great looking Z she is a great find. Enjoy every mile . And Welcome to the group . there is a ton of knowledge to be tapped here. Gary
  9. You didn't mention this but , is one of the dist, in question a ZX dist. Or is it possible that a ZX base part , the part that actually bolts to the block, is coupled to a 240 dist. These parts look the same at first look but they are different and you will have timing problems if they are interchanged. Just a thought .Gary
  10. Ash tray , smash tray ! you could have been in the car , and the propane could have ignited . Gary
  11. Ksteve , The clamps I used were from Summit and they are stainless steel and are band style clamps ,and are about 4'' wide . I also rotated them so the bolts are up in the tunnel . This makes a clean installation and they don't leak, plus if needed , access to the drive shaft and or trans removal is no problem being able to disassemble the plumbing. JAYRU The super turbo Dynomax I bought is oval and has the inlet in the center and the outlet on the end of the oval , which I put at the bottom . The muffler tucks up in the fender well and doesn't show below the bottom edge of the fender . This positions the outlet in the correct position to exit the opening in the rear finisher panel .I would post a picture , but I am computer challenged and don't know how . Gary
  12. Arne , I think you would be best suited with 2'' or 2 1/4'' piping with the stock L-24 . I am going to do the 2 1/4 when this stuff gives up . I don't think Motorsport carries 2 1/4 , only the larger stuff. Summit Racing has the Dynomax super turbo for only $35.00
  13. I have the mandrel bent system from Motorsport . Its a 2 1/5'' system it is coupled to a 3 into 2 into 1 header. I was able to tuck it up and my Z sets lower than stock .7 1/4 '' at the jack points and I rarely scrape unless I have a heavy weight for a passenger or going over a vary high speed bump. My Dynomax oval muffler is tucked up in the fender well and hardly shows at all from the rear. the muffler I bought have off set intake and outlet but it is a 2 1/2'' also. I plan on adding a thrush glasspac under the car to eliminate the resonance at 1500 to 2000 rpm . Thrush mufflers are made by Dynomax by the way , and they have a perforated inside pipe instead of louvered . Louvered pipe extends into the flow of the exhaust and causes resistance by restricting the flow. I also really like the sound of the system but without the glasspac the drowning can be a bit much . Especially in the mountains where the engine is under a little load at those revs .Gary:)
  14. beandip replied to tanny's topic in Help Me !!
    the '72 linkage will be fine . With 3 screw carbs , just be careful when you remove the domes from the carb body. Do not interchange them as they are specifcally fitted to each carb body at the factory . There is no adjustment for the nozzle like on a 4 screw , so the dome MUST align correctly so the main needle will align with the nozzle .
  15. JB just did it to my friend in Calif. GAry:devious:
  16. A friend just sent me an email . DONT BUY ANYTHING FROM JT OUTFITTERS on eBay . According to my friend , he takes your money and doesnt ship the item and says it is out of stock . If you bitch he gives you a negative feedback and won't return the funds . Says he will ship the item later and it's been over a month . Apparently he has been selling a lot of stuff for Z cars , so be careful . My friend frequents hi-bred Z . Gary
  17. beandip replied to rif222's topic in Help Me !!
    It could be any of a number of things . If the battery is going flat overnight . You have a serious draw. If you have a multi meter . connect it in line with the ground battery cable so that you can measure the amps being drawn from the battery. (disconnect the ground cable and check for current flow between the neg post and the cable connector) . You should see a reading showing power be drawn form the battery. Now go to the fuse panel and one by one remove the fuses watching the multi meter . When the meter shows the draw is gone , you have found where to look for the trouble. ( if you don't have a multi-meter , use a 12v light bulb connected to a wire so you can put clip the wire end to the battery cable and touch the bulb to the neg post. If the light lights , this is power flow drawing off the battery. When the light goes out when the fuse is pulled . that is the offending circuit. I hope this makes sense . Gary
  18. I am running the stock 240 tach as well with the ZX ignition. back to the carb problem . What about the shut off valve on the float on the rear carb ? could it be flooding the rear carb and there by adding fuel so you cannot adjust the needle to lean it out ? It is not wise to swap parts with these SUs , you might get by with a 4 screw but don't do it with a 3 screw. The domes are fitted at the factory and should not be interchanged . Since you have another rear carb , give it a try , swap out the needle so those are the same. I also have a color tune but find that it indicates proper mixture when actually it is lean . It is a great tool though. When I set the mixture with it , I get a lean pop when I blip the throttle. I find the color tune to be a good indicator at 2500 to 3K when trying different needles.
  19. I am running the stock 240 tach as well with the ZX ignition. back to the carb problem . What about the shut off valve on the float on the rear carb ? could it be flooding the rear carb and there by adding fuel so you cannot adjust the needle to lean it out ? It is not wise to swap parts with these SUs , you might get by with a 4 screw but don't do it with a 3 screw. The domes are fitted at the factory and should not be interchanged . Since you have another rear carb , give it a try , swap out the needle so those are the same. I also have a color tune but find that it indicates proper mixture when actually it is lean . It is a great tool though. When I set the mixture with it , I get a lean pop when I blip the throttle. I find the color tune to be a good indicator at 2500 to 3K when trying different needles.
  20. beandip replied to 2/72's topic in Introductions
    Welcome to the web site . I cant help you with the shipping , I am on the west coast. There are a few members in NC that may jump in here with some info. Do put your location on your signature , it help us to offer help and information . Gary
  21. Sence you already have the tank, and if it is not damaged or leaking . Why replace it ? If it is rusty inside order a tank kit from POR-15 and clean it out and coat the inside.
  22. Welcome to the web site. Do fill in your location , it may help you when you are looking for parts and or help . Gary
  23. I thought that was your project !
  24. If you plan on running hi revs , change to a electronic ignition and get away from the points. You wont be sorry . I am running a '79ZX ignition and am VARY satisfied. Have you balanced the carbs ? You said that you cannot lean out the rear carb? Some thing is out of whack there. Check the float level , it sounds like maby it is set to high and could be allowing raw gas flowing at idle and or low rpm. Set the balance then the mixture. How many miles on the engine since rebuilt ? Do check the fuelpump for both pressure and flow .. And you can remove the banjo filters.
  25. I have always used permatex form-a-gasket . It was recommended to me by a top notch mechanic . I cannot compaire it to anything since I never have had it fail. I have had the black sylicone come off stuff when I have used it and have not been imressed with it and wont use it any longer .
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