bpilati

Amazing coincidence.

Vintage Rubber actually supplies PRP now on the door seals, but can't answer about possible remaining old stock left. The owner of Vintage told me this. Vintage changed the durameter of the rubber to make it softer. Still not perfect but much better.

Are most you priming and painting the surface, then coating......or what?

Jeff Gordon and Pepsi MAX go to a car dealership where a disguised Jeff Gordon takes an unsuspecting car salesman on the test drive of his life. #GordonTestDrive

Were these an aftermarket option?

You use 80 grit paper on your control panel? I'm surprised there is any finish left at all?

The two outer vents are not connected to the heating system. They are controled by push-pull contols under the dash at either side. I have never had cold air pouring out of the center vent while hot air is coming out of the floor vents or defroster vents.

What are you putting this on?

It makes absolutely no sense to attach an unfinished steel splash pan to a vehicle being shipped overseas for corrosion and appearance reasons. In that case, they could have left a lot of other parts unfinished. I imagine it was at least zinc plated, but even this seems counterintuitive, because they typically would paint something black to hide its appearance from view. No matter, mine is black and will remain so. Maybe someone could ask Matsuo.

Funny, my rubber seal goes about another 2" past the channel, I'm going to have to cut it off.

Your Source For Hard To Find VW - Datsun - Mazda - Porsche- Audi Seals and Weather Stripping and More! These guys supply some items to Precision Rubber. I purchased new door seals from them, they soften them up (lower durometer) to overcome the infamous door slamming issue. You still have to close your door with a good push, but nothing like before.

Here's what I found yesterday after removing the black rubber compound that apparently filled this area with at the factory. There is another smaller hole at the other end of this crevice. Looks like removal of the air intake duct in this photo will be part of the solution. This hole is actually a bit larger than it appears here. Once I started scraping around there was more rotted area.

No, but the 73 did have an electric fuel pump (at the tank) as well. The original York compressor had a bracket around the mechanical fuel pump, if I remember correctly, and stood off the engine further. The original piston compressor stood vertical. Looks like someone added a 12 VDC outlet in the rear bumper.

Where's the best place to buy POR-15?

Where do you get these?

James Whitman of JW Sport Cars in Albany, OR starts the full restoration of a 1970 Datsun 240z.

3.2 stroker motor.

Discover what really happened after one fine gentleman passed another fine gentleman a jar of GREY POUPON. Recently discovered under mysterious circumstances, this "lost footage" uncovers all of the suspense, greed, revenge and savory pork loin that was meant for the original commercial. Please visit GreyPoupon.com for an even more rewarding experience.For behind the scenes interviews:Farnsworth's Outtake: http://youtu.be/xPAjCA7rGvsAlfred's Outtake: http://youtu.be/NRPi9oO_Eb0The Distinguished Gentleman's Outtake: http://youtu.be/Ikhy4FTzvmI

It would be wise to avoid such weather with you Z as much as possible. That Ford has corrosion resistance that the Z will never have no matter what. If you have to drive your Z in such weather probably wise to flush everything with fresh water.

Check out my car. It was apply not to long after painting.

I've put about $10K in the paint and body, and mine was rust free compared to yours.

That might be wise.

I certainly wouldn't spray any oil products in there. The Eastwood stuff appears to be made for rust surfaces to stop and prevent further rust.

I have one of these that I picked up at Costco for about $150 I think.

Did you eliminate the ballast resistor? I have to check mine, but I think even if you go with a 3 Ohm coil, you need it for the tach. Correct me if I get this wrong.