bjhines

90/10 silver/tin solder takes too much heat... you will burn everything up before you get it done... 60/40 lead/tin is the proper bullet for the gun...

http://alteredz.com/drivelinemods.htm Halfway down the page...

In order to use them you must solidly mount both the front and rear of the differential... I have owned and currently race several 240Zs... I have used the solid diff mounts in the past... I have pictures of a diff lower X-member cracked and fatigued to the point of failure... this was because I used a solid front mount with a poly bushing mounted rear bar on track for several years... The mustache bar is a SPRING!!! it really does not matter how solidly you mount the eyes... it WILL FLEX.... the differential is rock solid.. it is very heavy.. the differential will wobble and twist under pressure and eventually cause the stamped sheetmetal crossmember to crack and fall apart... It is absolutely imperative that you mount the front and rear of the differential solidly if you change factory mounting at all... A good alternative has been posted on HybridZ.org... it involves using a bracket that bolts to the restraining strap mounts... ignore the factory front mount and replace the mouting with a bracket the holds the front of the differential under compression not tension...

Hmmmmm..... There are several dozen unsoldered(crimped) connections in the S-30 Z-cars... The fuse panel gets hot because it is assembled with rivets that pin the wires and bussbars to the back of the fuse holders... these can get loose due to improper fuse removal techniques and corrosion... High resistance at these contact points causes the panel to get very hot before the fuse rating is approched or exceeded... Here is a good way to fix that issue forever... ^^^^ I have heated both sides of the fuse block parts and soldered all of the connections... This was not an easy task.. and it required a huge soldering iron on one side with a smaller conventional soldering iron on the other side.. I cleaned everything carefully and used electrical paste flux and rosin core solder to ensure good connections... This is a shot of a ground splice that overheated and browned several high current wires... There are dozens of these dry splices that should be soldered to make the electrical system more reliable... ...

Lean running will cause the carbys to hiccup... it is typical for most carbys... check float levels and check operation of the needle and seats... Most commonly... a lean condition at startup will cause that... considering the original "choke" mechanism is set up wrong on most SUs... You generally have to apply full choke to start and then gradually reduce choke until the engine is warm... or it will hiccup... The key is to get everything functioning and moving freely and then fine tune the bent rod to give just a few hundred extra RPMs at idle full choke... and then gradually reduce RPM to normal as you return the choke lever to the warm running position... The needle must drop enough at full choke to provide extra fuel... and the extra fuel and RPM increase must also be calibrated to work together as you decrease choke action... The choke system will work properly assuming you have everything else on the carbys set up properly... things like improper float levels, improper needle seating, improperly bent actuator rods, etc, will cause problems starting on cold days...

Extreme seating... I worked on seating this evening... I removed stock slider rails from an old set of stock seats.... carefully cleaned and relubricated them... and installed them on the Corbeu seats I am using in this project... The first thing I found was that the seats were WAY TOO HIGH... with my helmet on I had <2" clearance to the roof... Im 6'... I have no problem with the Recaros on stock sliders in one of my other cars... ohh well... every seat is different... The seat mounts had to come out... I wanted something a little tougher than the flimsy stamping the the factory intalled... the original front mounting showed cracks and fatigue around the bolt holes... The front mount is very tall ~4"... the rear mounts are only about 2.5" tall... this provides an extreme rake back for aftermarket buckets... it is hard to apply pressure to the pedals without forcing your legs into the bolster... I decided to remove the front stamping entirely... I cut away all of the rear spampings except the rear part attached to the rear siffener strip on the floor... I seam welded the remainder of the rear mounts to the rear stiffener... I cut 2 4x6" plates to attach the front cross mount to the side of the transmission tunnel and the rocker/floor junction... I used 1.5" square tubing... coped to fit... I mocked it all up several times.. I built in a slight rake back... and I centered the seat better than the original mounting holes did.. this replaces the original seat mounts with a much lower, stronger, better angled, and properly lined up mounting surface... I drilled 1" holes from the bottom to allow access from underneath to the mounting nuts using a deep well socket... I will use rubber plugs to seal the holes... As a final touch I cross drilled lightening holes everywhere... I still have to tie the floor into the inside of the rocker with another plate... The front cross bar will also be tied into the subframe connectors with 2 L-gussets.. I have to mount the connectors and then finalize this part of the seat mount...

Flyer... http://www.ncrscca.com/Pdf/2006Entri...dx_bitmap1.pdf JULY 29-30.... ATTENTION there are only 25 cars signed up for this 2 day event... they have waived late fees and registration is open until July 28th... you can run both days or only one (I am running Sunday 30th)... $250 for both days... $125 for one day... no late fees... OPEN TO ALL!!! Register... NC region SCCA Performance Driving Experience at North Carolina Motor Speedway... http://www.myautoevents.com/pls/mae/frmEventDetail.Show?psevent_id=5729&psrnd=.2489774 8576405362215536518247607232918 It is my understanding that there is no timed event... No Time Trial for this event... that leaves much more time for running in the non timed sessions... there should be 5x 30 minute sessions each day... For those who have never run at "The Rock"... it is a steeply banked oval with an infield section... you will get to run the long straights and banked Nascar turns.... 115MPH in a steeply banked turn will place enormous Gee forces on your body and your car... check that fender clearance before you come... your car will be crushed to it's bump stops going 115MPH for an extended period of time... NC SCCA website... http://www.ncrscca.com/

Here is what I made mine to do... and it does it in spades...

you lower the S30 more than 2" and you get no more travel from the original size struts... the method for fixing this is to cut a section out of the middle and shorten them to fit a different cartridge... like the Toyota mk1 MR2, or the VW rabbit cartridges.... The first stage would involve cutting off the perches and fitting coil over sleeves... for stock height or slightly lowered... The second stage would be to section and reweld the strut tubes to fit shoter cartridges in them... for 2" or more lowered... You might think to yourself... why would I need to lower it more than 1.5"???? well.... if you run 17" rims with a 50 profile tire.. you are goona need to drop the chassis at least 2" to get it back to a reasonable height... Some more problematic issues are the lower control arm angle and TC bucket height in relation to the lowered suspension parts... I would check to see if the front crossmember mounting holes are relocated... Jmortenson has been through great effort ot correct TC bucket location and "anti dive" properties...

The rod moving into the shock tube displaces quite a bit of fluid and will give them some spring action even without gas.... the high pressure gas is working against the rod displacement like a spring...

I have invested in hundreds of dollars worth of parts trying to squeeze out every last HP on my set up.... expect them to be somewhat of a project.... I found that my raw TWM intake had larger runners than the raw port size on my E88 head... I went ahead and port matched my head to my intake... and smoothed out the intake as well... I also tapped every runner and made up a custom vacuum manifold. That set up is a good choice if you have patience... It helps to get it on the dyno several times... between jet orders that is.... I could not find anyone who had a good selection of jets locally... so I had to bite the bullet and order them... I also tried 3 different venturi "choke" sizes. The real deal with these carbys is the infinite tuneability... I have a much better mixture across the board.. I can now drive the car out of corners in 3rd gear with good results... it also has good power to 7500RPM.. the SUs pooped out after 6500RPMs

TWM has a website I think... in any case there are several Weber carby specialists who have a huge variety of linkage options and parts... Try Pierce Manifolds.... or Weber direct.... Get some measurements and they can crosscheck parts...

That looks like a TWM manifold to me... Check if the runners are 45mm at the carby ends...

Mine are DCOE 45 - 152s... late models with the plastic floats and air bypass needles... made in Spain... 125 Main, 180 air, 60F9 idle, 34mm chokes.. I tried 30mm chokes... it ran great on street.. It felt like it was missing high end HP.. even though I have A/F ratio meters installed and mixture was correct throughout the range... I tried 36mm chokes.. the mains would not come on until 3300 RPM... I ended up with 34mm chokes installed for mostly track use.. occasional street driving... It comes onto the main circuits at ~2800 RPM.. It never bogs on track(even with 3rd gear corner exits)... but it does surprise me sometimes with jackrabbit starts from stoplights... I would bet that 32mm chokes would work just as well at high RPMs... but would get onto the mains sooner and more smoothly at low RPMs... I just ran out of patience... and I don't have any street tires right now anyway...

I tried 30mm chokes in my 45s... I had the same feeling that I was missing high end HP... I only dyno tested the 34mm chokes... 30 and 36mm were my other attempts.. but the 36s would not get on the mains early enough >3300RPM... the 34s still don't come on the mains until 2800RPM... I think the real dyno test for my set up would be between 32mm and 34mm for street and track respectively... I just don't use it much on street... so I have stuck to the 34mm chokes...I never have problems with it boggin down on corner exits.. even in 3rd gear.

hmm... as I recall... you could reduce the air correctors several steps... this would richen only the high RPM mixture... You could go to 125 mains and leave the air correctors where they are... you may have to increase them a few steps... as long as you don't end up overrich in the midrange.... 3 to 5K... I have DCOE 45- 152s... I am running 34mm chokes with 125 mains and 180 air... I notice that the smaller chokes like smaller mains.

Don't forget the great quality TWM manifolds... they have TWM embossed in the center top of the middle carby flange... I can get the thickness of the rod for you if you have this one...

Hybrid V8 conversion in progress FULL RACE.. willwoods, coilovers, full cage, 350SB, TKO 5speed, Nismo CLSD R200 (3.54), 17x10 CCWs, factory 1972 Blue 115... fiberglass front end.. etc... etc...

Cannon Elura IOPort roll cage mount

Chase video... HQ: <IFRAME SRC="http://videos.streetfire.net/iPlayer.aspx?fileid=02F7DCCB-5743-4B87-8CE0-AADC0E9D9C5E" WIDTH="470" HEIGHT="375" FRAMEBORDER="0" MARGINWIDTH="0" SCROLLING="no"></IFRAME> small version: Click here to see Video 1972 240Z mostly stock drivetrain... L24, 10/1, 3 Weber DCOE45s, 4 speed tranny, 3.54 open R180... full interior... bumpers removed.... Cut MSA springs, stock length Tokico non adjustable dampers.... Toyota front calipers, stock rear drums... Race brake pads, ATE fluid, cooling ducts, shaved Victoracers 225/50/15.... all bushing are aluminum/delrin... The BMW E-30 is light and fast... he is on coilovers with an M3 suspension.. race brakes... Hoosier slicks... some engine mods... The 350Z is on Hoosier slicks... intake and exhaust mods... coilovers, race brakes.. etc. The Mustank is not even worth talking about... but he is on slicks as well.... I take them all to school... except the E30... that guy is NUTS... he throws that little car around with abandon.... I have a great deal of trouble catching him... but I eventually get past him too.... Keep in mind.. I am holding back in the turns... I don't want to get too close in the twisties... you can hear me short shifting and feathering the throttle... The second lap is a little faster... but the other cars are braking early and just plain in the way in the twisties...

There is a definite pattern to plugs in a fresh engine run on track for 30 minutes at a time...SUs and any factory manifold have poor distribution... but the N36s are better.... I am now running triple weber DCOE 45s on a TWM manifold... with a cold air intake box quieting the Webers.. the engine has a totally different exhaust note... same cam, same engine.. Equal length intake runners make the whole thing smoother... It sounds more like a European sports car... and I brought up power in the mid range as well as top end.