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@Yarb Made a little progress today. I got the reverse lights fixed with the help of Yarb and my little helper was in town too. Yarb sent me a new switch he had. It's longer than the one I ordered Yarb, do you know the part number for that switch?

Im in good company!!

I have some OEM, two used and one NOS.

Never mind! Coffee kicked in. 3 outer and only 2 inner shims. I read back through that and this doesn't make sense. Diseazed do you know how many valve spring washers Eiji uses? I don't know him like you do and kinda scared to call and ask a bunch of questions until I am actually ready to do mine. I know he's a busy man. Because .080" longer valves are now in the head the springs must be shimmed up to from the bottom to retain the same spring tension. The washers are hardened steel and are there to prevent galling of the aluminum head...don't get them from the hardware store. The stock head came with only one shim under each per spring is exactly .040" in thickness. So just add 2 more under each outer spring (total fo three) and you can achieve the desired increase of .080". Washers used to be available at MSA and were inexpensive. The single stock washer under the inner spring is also .040" thick. But you can only add a total of 2 washers under the valve seal instead of 3, as it won't let the valve seal lock-ring seat properly. The inner spring is more of a "helper" spring and won't be adversely affected, I've had no problems using only 2 washers here and I rev my engine to 7,300.

Have you read datsungarage p79 modification? You shave 80 off, shim cam towers 80 higher and use the valves from the N head. https://datsunzgarage.us/p79/

I do, I ordered another from Nissan to replace mine. When I get back in town from Boston, I’ll post the p/n. Can’t remember if it was superseded.

Provide some details about the car. Is it a California car with a converter or is it a Federal car without? There will be a sticker on the door jamb that says Catalyst or No Catalyst. I found the patent describing the concept. If the system follows the patent there will be some hardware attached to the air intake system after the AFM. Attached below. If it was mine I would disconnect it and get the wiring back to factory stock in order to simplify things until you get the engine started. There are numerous reasons that it might not be starting. Start with the basics - power to the coil, spark, tach signal, etc. Download the 1980 EFI book and do the electrical tests. Try starting fluid if you have spark. Make sure the fuel pump is working, etc... I'd also start a separate thread where everything you try is contained. Sometimes people start multiple threads and you can't tell what's been done. It can take a while to get things right after an EFI car has sat. https://patents.google.com/patent/US5163412A/en "Pollution control system for older vehiclesAbstractA pollution or emission control system for retrofitting on older vehicle engines includes a catalytic converter with an in-built oxygen sensor for mounting in the exhaust line, and a supplemental air input line containing a control valve for connection to the engine intake manifold to control the amount of air supplied to the engine. A computer monitors the oxygen sensor output and the engine speed, and controls opening and closing of the control valve according to the detected conditions. The computer also controls the speed at which the valve is opened or closed dependent on the engine speed and optionally the engine temperature, so that the valve can be closed faster at slower engine speeds and opened faster at higher engine speed. The computer is additionally capable of producing diagnostic telemetry, both digital and analog, to assist installation of the invention and test for proper operation once installed."