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I doubt that hairline crack is the source of your problem, That crack probably doesn't go very deep. Hopefully it's just a surface feature. So, the first thing I would check are the nuts on the top of the strut insert (down in the recess in the top center of the strut insulators). If one of them has worked their way loose (or were never tight to begin with), you would get a noise like what you describe. And you can't just "check for play" with the strut assembly off the car. That spring will extend to take up any available play. There would only be play with a load on the strut that has partially compressed the strut insert. So was this noise always there, or is it something that has developed over time?

Did you replace the factory diff mount? When you use a bumper with the RT mount it essentially just replaces the strap. It reduces upward movement but the diff can also move downward if the stock mount is worn. Also, the bushings and bumpers on the ends of the mustache bar look worn. If you crawl under the car and grab the mustache bar end with your hand you'll be surprised at how easily it can be moved up and down. New bushings might help, although sometimes they can bring some diff whine in to the cabin. Z Car Depot IncMustache Bar Bushings Poly Differential 240Z 260Z 280ZMustache Bar Bushings Poly Rear Diff Mount S30 - 800-172 (). New Energy Suspension black polyurethane bushings for 1970-78 Datsun 240Z 260Z 280Z mustache bar.

Zed, i've seen it in my 280ZX serv.man. ! It says something like if you get the tank completely empty you have to fill it for at least 2/3 !! The pump will otherwise not prime! (I often get the impression that you people don't read your service manuals.. except Zed ofcourse..) It seems to have to do with communicating vessels.. so to be sure it works i have 50 ltr of fuel standing with my car as the fueltank is empty at the moment (280zx).