Seems like you're stuck in the classic "what happened" versus "make it run right" dilemma.
Cliff's EGR suggestion might not cause a vacuum leak but might cause full-time EGR. Diluting the fuel-air mixture, lowering power. Might explain the lower idle RPM.
Also not clear if your focus on the gauge reading is coloring your impressions or not. Trying to tune to the gauge instead of the actual performance. No offense, the human brain is a strange thing. You're discounting people's suggestions, but aren't showing that you fully understand the source of the problem. You're in the nope, nope, nope regime. If running without the vacuum hose helps power then using the potentiometer should also.
Does the engine still "front-fire" if you try to accelerate at a moderate rate? Off of the full throttle area of the TPS? You're saying it has low power and lean gauge readings. How is power if you just go full throttle? When, exactly, do you feel that it has low power compared to before?
Maybe all of the chaos broke some junk loose and clogged some injectors. My engine still ran well with these, below, after I replaced the AFM. Those injectors came with the car. But it ran a lot better with new injectors. I probably never needed a new AFM.