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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/27/2024 in Posts

  1. https://go.harborfreight.com/email/2024/05/e182731-61232/ Just an FYI these jacks went on sale for the holiday. Fantastic tool to have in your garage!
  2. Aaron on https://www.viczcar.com/profile/101180-specialp3/ is the member who created it, and has given me permission to share it here. Hopefully this Google Drive link works? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dm7zkrTTx32dWLz5s0uTlDR2IH2OeF3O/view?usp=sharing
  3. OK - I'm cautiously optimistic about the revised setup I made today. Pondering the factory diagram, and those of the several generations of Volvos I have owned, I surmised that my main mistakes were: 1) running the 1/4 vent hose below tank level 2) separating the 1/4 and 5/8 circuits. So, in my continued effort to NOT put the vent tank back, I revised the 1/4" vent line to connect with the 5/8 line. This way, if any quantity of liquid either makes its way up into the line, it will drain back into the filler neck connection, as it would with the factory setup. The 1/4 vent then continues in a loop, and goes back out to connect to the factory line up to the canister. The underside of the canister was still damp with fuel from the prior setup, however after I wrapped up & drove around for a bit, went to Home Depot, left it sit, came home, the canister was emptied of fuel condensate (bottom of canister felt dry to the touch). I'll check it again tomorrow before I reinstall all the hatch trim. Tank end, elevated the vent hose elbow coming out of cabin Tool for installing these fittings, makes it much easier 4 way connector is from a Volvo tank vent setup
  4. Throttle was milled from 10mm to 8mm. Its something they liked to do when he worked for electramotive. The picture , shining light up throttle shaft so you can see no light. So I feel the bearings are sealed for air leaks. I did move light around
  5. Been trying to recall exactly - now I'm thinking the fuel in the vent line at the charcoal canister was AFTER bypassing the vent tank, but before playing around with the charcoal canisters (when I saw the fuel) - this pic is from Monday, the day before. There was an elevated loop in the line, however it was isolated from the 5/8 filler neck / fuel tank vent. SO, I think it is fair to surmise that if the vent tank had been in place, there would NOT have been liquid in the line. Now I have the two circuits combined again (previous post), I'll know during the week if it is resolved.
  6. ZTherapy replaces the bushings with roller bearings. Including me I'm sure there's plenty of folks around here that are very happy with our roller bearing carbs. I'd guess you'll be happy with your bearing mod.
  7. So at the end of the day, here's what I did: - pressure tested all of the hoses/vapor tank (by taking them all off and blowing in one end while plugging the others with hands/fingers - replaced all of the original style clamps to gates belt clamps - replaced the short hose that makes a u-turn on the filler neck (no idea why this exists) - cut the ends of all the hoses off so they have a new tighter fit on the vapor tank - cut about 6 inches off the main large hose that comes out of the gas tank and bought some new hose, then joined the two with a plastic joiner (a straight piece that you cram both hoses on. Reason being that the hose held air when straight, but when curved (needed to plug in to vapor tank) there were small cracks One thing I noticed was when you blow into the metal rail in the engine bay, it becomes noticeably more difficult to do so after doing all the above. Hope that helps -chase
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