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Here's a chart that I whipped up showing the resistance vs. temperature function for the temperature sensors for the 280Z EFI system. There are a couple values in the manuals at a few temperatures, but this fills in the gaps. Note that Bosch used the same sensor curve for both the air and water temp sensors, so this chart applies to both water and air: And for those of you who care about the theory, this chart was created using the Stienhart-Hart Equation with coefficients derived from data points in the manual. Stienhart-Hart: I did the chart in Degrees F because that's what I use, but if anyone wants this in Degrees C, let me know.

hmmm... My car's VIN is 5/70 and the tab that came unsoldered was the lower pssgr side. I think that what we have here may be a process or material problem, rather than a worker problem. Fortunately, the fix is easy. And on the 'glass half-full' side of the equation, I can't think of too many other places on the 240Z where things just 'broke'.

The ad keep changing, Now the picture with the $8500 on the windshield has been removed. The ad does say it is a manual transmission. If I had the means I would have jumped on it when I first saw the ad. ($8500) Now that the price is going up I would have to pass too. There is a contact phone number. One could call and find out the VIN at least. If I call my internal voices might talk me into making an offer. Right Mark......

@Matthew Abate You're probably thinking of Just Dashes. They're actually about 30 minutes away from me. They seem to do nice work, but the price (~$1800) is, well, a non-starter, to put it mildly. @Captain Obvious I'm no expert on composites, but my limited understanding is that polyester resin might eat foam. It's also stronger and can withstand higher heat, but shrinks by about 10% when cured. Epoxy resin shouldn't eat any urethane foams and only shrinks ~2% when cured, but won't be as strong or able to take high heats (150F+). I'm using epoxy resin since those tradeoffs aren't a real concern, but yes, anyone who might be trying the same thing: test the resin first to make sure it doesn't dissolve the foam! The spacebag approach might actually work! Most of my prior fiberglass experience was on subwoofer enclosures and other audio parts and I didn't have a problem with bubbles. The dash has a substrate that's staying in place, so vacuum forming shouldn't be necessary there. I think vacuums are more useful if you're forming a part from a mold, like a center console. And Harbor Freight's not that bad...I wouldn't be able to do some of the stuff I can without them!

I'm reparing my Heater Center Console Panel, adding a New Fuse Box from MSA and installing a New Stereo on my 1973 240z. The prior owner messed it up pretty bad when installing the Stereo 12years back, so I decided to do some major repairs and restoration. Removal of the Heater Control Panel was easy! Thanks to a prior thread read post #5 by EScanlon: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4429&highlight=Center+Control+panel Once I started looking at the wires I noticed many issues and questions as I expected. I can use some help identifying several wires, connectors and recommended fixes of diagnostic approaches. 1) There is a 3prong relay (photo #000) on the driver that was unplugged. I plugged it in and the car runs fine. What is this and should it be plugged in? 2) There is a Red wire with Male bullet connector from the Fan/Blower harness (photo #001) that I believe was connected to a Blue Female bullet connector on the passenger side (photo #002). Is this correct? 3) There is a spare Blue wire Female bullet connector in the Fan/Blower harness (photo #2). What is this is for? Possibly an AC option? 4) There is a 3 Prong Female connector (Photo #003) with White/Black, White and Blue wires and is connected to the Fan Blower harness. What is this for? Possibly an AC Option? I have additional questions so see the #2 post below. I could not post more that 4 photos. Any help is very much appreciated.