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Well some of you that I am now proceeding with my Mikuni install.When I purchased these carbs I got lucky and recieved a very complete kit. These look new right out of the box-infact the carbs came in a Mikuni box:) I even recieved an original 1985 catalog and service manual. I decided to post up parts of these Mikuni publications on here for all to view. Between the two publications I have part numbers and illustrations of the carbs and their parts. Let me know if there is anything in particular that you might want to see. I know folks buy these carbs with the intent to rebuild, but not much to go on. I hope this thread and pics will help. I'll start out with the some stuff from the catalog

I forgot about this post. Wow! I've done a lot since then, and I need to update this. Maybe later tonight I'll start. Funny, I actually reworked a lot of stuff shown here. For example, the home fabbed rocker front section I cut off and replaced with the front of a formed rocker repair panel. The flares... didn't like how I had done them. Took them off and started over (still in progress). The pink bondo on the dogleg? Stripped it off and redid it (right this time). The seam sealer is Eastwood's brushable seam sealer. http://www.eastwood.com/ew-brush-on-seam-sealer-quart.html I'm a big fan of Eastwood. They have some real nice stuff. Here are a few favorites: Their body filler is awesome. Sands really nicely: http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-contour-premium-body-filler.html These are worth every penny! http://www.eastwood.com/quick-mix-board.html Use this for places you can't reach http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-w-spray-nozzle.html

Cliff, I have a Nismo sprocket, but I believe the increments are the same -4 degrees each hole. I am 8 degrees advanced, but that's where it landed trying to match isky's card. Most cam profilers build in some advance on the cam, so guys that just install straight up are okay. I've shot for getting the intake to close on the numbers which builders like Racer Brown say is essential. My head has had about .030 shaved off so it's not surprising that I have had to advance it. My Schneider cam ran on #2 to get the numbers. The procedure is easy to change the timing and I've got it down to about a 20 minute job, so I don't mind trying new stuff. I haven't driven enough performance L's to compare, but I think going for low end(advanced valve timing) on the L24 with a bigger cam seems to give an overall good performing motor. And I don't know WTF is with the bullet points-must be my cheap computer- And yes Lumens, that's my Z.

Alright! All done. How's this?

A weld will always be more permanent and if you have the skills, then complete rust removal is preferred. What I've done on small unnoticeable places is after grinding/removing any loose material I would then neutralize the area with something like Mar-Hyde One Step. Then fill any small areas with POR 15 patch. I don't know about longevity though. time will tell.

Update: I thank everyone for their comments and wanted to update the post. It has been a long day, but the 71 Series 1 now lives in my garage!

It's already fixed. You drove it. Without knowing your plans all you're getting are reflections of what the people out here would do with it. The restore guys see lots of work to make it look like it came off the factory floor. The daily driver guys see a car that's ready to buy and go. Pick a plan, and ask worth relative to the the plan.

This is encouraging to me right now. The Datsun's ok but my old truck is a rust bucket with too good of a motor to get rid of. Wish I had a place to work and the welding skill to do it like that. But I don't so I'm stuck with phosphoric acid and fiberglass. Spent most of today fishing out chunks of rust with a magnet on a piece of wire.