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some jobs are like that. my buddy spent $25K replacing his old galvanized steel plumbing w/copper, and would always bemoan the fact that nobody every noticed or seemed to care that water came out of the faucet since it was simply expected, yet if he'd spent $25 on a gallon of paint for the front hallway everyone would say "wow!" as soon as they walked in... but YOU will know

“A good machinist is a like a good lawyer, you don’t know one until you need one” For anyone that has had to get quality machine work done knows good machinists are in demand and Glenn is no exception. He had everything from a race ready BMW 4 cylinder w/dual Weber carbs in the dyno room to numerous SBC, BBC, BBF, and BBD blocks and heads he was working on. However, the biggest attraction in the shop was a crankshaft for a Duesenberg Straight-8. The pistons to it can be seen in the background of the picture above. He took the time to tell me about it and explain all the unique characteristics of it. The silver barrels bolted to the front are filled with liquid mercury to aid in balancing it while running in the car. Glenn's passion for his work is second to none so it is no surprise that he remains a very busy man.

been reading your thread with great interest, as i've recently installed a set of su's on my 78 280. i set float levels on the bench running the fuel pump into shot glass bowls, then re-set them on the car with a sight glass but i was still lean on both carbs, significantly more at the rear carb. this site: http://www.zcarz.us/technicalinformationpagecarburation.htm had some good info re setting fuel level at the nozzle vs. focusing solely on the float bowl - makes sense since the the fuel actually draws from the nozzle. his measurement shows 1 cm down from top of the bridge, so 10 turns down and the fuel should be right at the top of the nozzle. remove domes & pistons and look straight down and you can see it. i would keep it at 8 turns down, adjust the float, run the pump to fill the bowl, then dial in the last 2 turns to see if i had it. when it's right, the meniscus should hit the top of the nozzle at 9 turns and the fuel just flows over the top at 10 turns. this method worked for me and when i was done the float bowl levels, measured with the sight glass, were pretty different (both higher than 23mm, the rear quite a bit more than the front) but the nozzles were dead on and it runs well in the 2-3 turns down range.

Here's how to do it:

More progress... Furnace in position. Lower in-line ventilation fan for down draft paint booth installed. Upper unit this weekend. Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

Finally got my MN47 back from the machine shop. Didn't expect the guy to tell me he took .012 off-eek! The CR is going up as we speak. Looks like I need to get that burret on order and start taking measurements. I want to know exactly where I'm at on this. The really good news was that everything cleaned up nicely. The one exhaust valve that was bent didn't ruin the guide! Now rusty looks better than warpy. I had the warped head tanked so I could play around with a clean head. I still plan on trying to straightening it.

I'd pay $100 for that. I've spent $100 on some things I don't even remember the next day. LMFAO!

Some engine bay pics