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Not funny - not even close to funny. Once the head is done, it'll be: "the trans bell housing looks like a$$ next to the head..." Before I know it I'll be polishing the moustache bar. Gonna have to join polish-aholics anonymous...

yes it is now below 3 ' deep. Hopefully it will be melted in a week. Temps forecast to be above freezing

Cliff's neighbour's kid used to dump gravel through the filler door when he wasn't around.

Pennziol GT Performance Racing Oil 25W-50. Highest zinc of any available engine oil at 1,968 PPM. Our oil analysis reports zinc levels over 2,100 PPM and its all we use in air cooled Porsche engines.

it's clear from the fact they built a multiple alloy assembly for the rockers that they were trying to utilize properties of different materials in different areas. I don't have rockers laying loose anymore to inspect, but I suspect the pad that contacts the cam was brazed into place similar to how they attach carbide bits to a saw blade. I also suspect it's properties run pretty much the same through the whole pad. By that, I mean I bet a couple thousandths down into it is pretty much the same as at the original surface. If there were issues, I would expect them to surface (get it?) at the lash pad end. I believe surface hardening runs deeper than .001" so if they did something like that at the factory, you shouldn't be through it at just .001. And there's no way I would try to home heat treat those things! I've done a little hardening with my oxy-acetylene torch and a can of quench oil, but there's no way I'd try it on something like that! Not nearly consistent or predictable enough. As for how good the workmanship looks... I've heard stories of the training of the old school European machinists and their apprentice days. One of the stories is that some apprentices spent their first year or two doing nothing other than hand filing. Maybe not even with a goal in mind other than to spend time filing. I'm clearly still an apprentice and with that in mind, I just spent a bunch of time hand filing a Z project yesterday. Turned out fantastic...

Thank you for the great write up, I now have a step by step.

nice! i thought about trying that on mine when i was in the middle of my rocker dilemma, but went with delta. yours look just as good. it would be interesting to see how they wipe on the cam - cover in sharpie and see what kind of pattern you get. would be a good measure of surface trueness in relation to the cam.

You mentioned shiny not holding oil. When I got my rockers and cam reground I noticed a mildly rougher finish on both. Now I know why. They will smooth themselves together.

I love my electric pump & its so much more reliable than the mechanical one. Here's my write up for reference: http://jarvas240z.blogspot.com/2013/01/electric-fuel-pump-installation.html

Seems to me, that based on each individual's research and experience, and recommendations by those whom we know and trust, each person has their "favorite" oil. I built plenty of "L" series motors in the 70's and didn't pay much attention to oil other than we used non detergent oil to break in a new build (so the rings would seat properly). However, if oil producers were adding ZDDP then, and then were forced to remove it, I think I want that in my oil now (just me). I still think that the most important aspect in breaking in a new valve train is plenty of flow and an oil that clings to pressure points. Make sure that all t's are crossed and i's dotted to make sure that happens. Fill your oil pump with oil before installing it and liberally coat the pressure surfaces with a quality prelube (which most contain zinc supposedly because it clings and coats metal better) and make sure you have oil flow. If you want to use something other than ZDDP additive oil, more power to you.....you may be fine or you may not. Your choice......my choice is VR1.

The degreaser is for greasy or oily bolts. I usually clean the oily bolts in thinner, let them dry, then do the wire wheel. You don't want to get your wire wheel oily or dirty. After the wire wheel and orange wheel finish, I acid bath for 15 mins, then plate for 10-15 mins. I spray rinse with RO water after the zinc plating then blue dip for 30 sec, yellow dip for ~2mins or so. After the yellow dip, I rinse in bucket of warm water for 15 secs then usually blow dry with high heat (yes, my wife's old hair dryer) till dry. This process works very well for me.