Leaderboard

I also don't think there would be a problem. Stich weld if necessary. And as suggested... Don't clamp your ground wire onto the rotating portion. Clamp the ground onto the same side of the bearings the weld will be located so the welding current doesn't have to go through the balls. It's never good to send welding current through the balls.

yes the cap is vented Ultimately it was always vented through the gas cap. The vapor tank was sealed into the same system when it was in place, it didn't have a vent either. The whole idea of the vapor tank was to accumulate gas vapor, allow it to condense and drip back into the fuel tank instead of venting glacier killing vapor into the atmosphere. I have nothing against the system but it was broken and I prefer my interior not to smell like gas. I'm no engineer but I think running gas fumes through the interior of the car is also a terrible idea and potential safety issue.

Oh geez! Take the bearings and hubs off the spindle - the rotor and hub will get in the way when welding the strut tubes. You don't have to buy new bearings or races when putting them back on, just repack.

I'm guessing he means to seal the vulnerable area of led's. Wouldn't it be best just to find & replace the missing lens or the whole assembly?

Part number ZT-30 New in stock as of last month. $30 each

Pulled dash and started putting 'new' dash together. Feeling a little conflicted about the AFR location. Between the 3 or 4 clocks I have I'm sure I can get one working. Any recommendations for an AFR mounting location, other than DS vent?

My judgement was made based on what I saw on my AFR gauge using SM needles. I still believe stock needles are more than adequate for stock L motors.

While the L28 is running fine, the spare L29 was yearning for some attention. Upon teardown, #1 cylinder had a bunch of scoring from detonation. :( The PO warned me it had low compression.. Luckly enough the VO7 crank survived along with the head. An L31 is in the works...

No - that is not normal. The Fresh Air Vents in the Dash should not have air coming though them, when the selector lever is moved to "HEAT". They should have fresh air coming in only when "VENT" is selected. Fresh air comes in though the cowl - and there is a "flap" or "door" that opens/closes to control the fresh air flow. If you have cold air coming in - something is not allowing that door to close when it should - or the seals on that door are shot, or the cable that controls it may not be adjusted correctly. It may be time to remove the Blower Assy - clean and reseal the air flow control flaps/doors. FWIW, Carl B.