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What about the timing mark on the front pulley? Are you certain it is accurate? I know you did alot of work and replaced the timing set & chain, but I don't think you ever mentioned if you checked the front pulley to see if it had separated which of course would affect the timing accuracy. Mine had slipped & the original owner had the timing retarded by 8 degrees, which produced a corresponding low vacuum reading. When I sold my turbo Z, I kept the boost / vacuum gauge & replaced the clock with it in my 77. I read about 19hg at idle when warmed up. In other (but possibly related) news .... did your replacement head solve your high oil consumption problem?

I think you are 'hoping' that the ECU handles these changes and adds HP, it might just turn out to be a headache. If you are familiar with tuning you might consider Mega Squirt or another to maximize your upgrades. Not too much that I have read that has gone your route with stock ECU and brags success, but maybe you can be one of the first. It is 40 year old tech!! Assuming header bolt on means HP is probably wrong. I would actually think that sticking with stock exhaust would keep the stock ECU closer to a proper tune. I think your formula p90/flat-top= (+HP), but you won't be able to tune it to it's optimum which will cause frustration. There is a member here that is creating a plug in ECU for your year, but it hasn't materialized yet. I have documented a MS install here and on Hybridz.

Can you order some springs and shocks for me? That's a great price! We use those wheels on our race cars and really like them. Chuck

Yes, that tube around the back of the block carried water that passed through the original manifold back to the water pump inlet. With your new manifold, I'm assuming there are no provisions for water heat? I'm no cooling system expert, but I think it's important to have a small amount of flow through the thermostat housing, even when the engine is cold. If that area is completely stagnant, then you run the risk of overheating because the thermostat won't be subjected to the hot water and could instead be sitting in a stagnant cold pool. I believe most thermostats have a small bypass hole built into them to allow for just this kind of issue, but I wouldn't completely block off all those path(s) without first confirming that is the case. Eventually heat will make it's way into that area through conduction and eddy currents, but if you don't ensure some flow somewhere prior to the thermostat getting hot enough to open, it may be too late by the time it does.

Hey guys I've decided to list my last pair of used kick plates on ebay at no reserve incase someone needs a decent used set. I'm local I'm in portland oregon. There is two 4.11 diffs at my local picknpull that I can pull off a 720 4x4 if anyone wants one. They are front diffs so miles are probably under 10k. They charge about 120 bucks for each diff. Pay me whatever you feel it's worth for me pulling the part. Just trying to help the z community.

Hi Bob, Common mod to get the CR up on the P90 in a N/A engine is to shave the head 2mm, shim the cam towers 2mm and use the valves out of the N47 head. You could do this to your P79 head if the bottom end is in good shape, this could be an alternative with the P79 head. Its not a perfect design with dished pistons, but the P79 is considered the better of the two heads. Chas PS: Might want to start a new thread if you are considering changing heads. It would be an interesting discussion.

My dash was in need of some love so I followed the dash repair techniques on this forum and I think it came out really good. Not perfect but 100X better than it was. I ended up spending about $100 on materials and a good week or 2 of working on it here and there.

Well, I finally got around to trying the dash repair process and I couldn't be happier. I followed the proceedure outlined in the thread with the exception of using the SEM Flexible Polyester Glaze. I also substituted the SEM Texture Coating #39853 with SEM Heavy Duty Chip Guard #39793. It had a little better texture I thought. I turned out great.

I recently repaired the dash in my '71 using the process initially described in this thread. I started by repairing the deepest cracks with fiberglass. I then filled the cracks and low spots with the spray foam and cut it down with a hacksaw. I began covering the cracks with the SEM bumper repair epoxy, but soon ran out. Too many cracks! I switched to the NAPA bumper repair kit. In my experience, I'd say the NAPA epoxy is easier to work with. The NAPA epoxy has a slower cure time, which allowed me to mix up bigger batches and cover more of the cracks at a time. Both products seem to provide a similar flexible coat when cured. I ended up spraying the dash with Duplicolor truck bed liner. It provided a grainy finish with a nice semi-gloss finish. There was no need to spray it with the SEM trim black afterwards. I think it turned out pretty good!