5 hours ago, Yarb said:

You need the 1.5 coil without the ballast is their recommendation. On the website it’s pretty straight forward. Number 1 position on the 123 is in the 5 position on their cap. Different I understand but that’s how they set it up. Bring it to top dead center drop it in and turn it clockwise until the led lights and your set.

I need to install this to see where I end up when the engine is mechanically at TDC. I think I would modify this.

Bring it to TDC

Drop it in

Turn it until the light comes on. Lightly snug it down

the cap only fits one way. So when you drop it in, it will likey NOT be pointing at a wire contactor inside the cap.

Connect the app and set the advance to 0 degrees across the board. Turn off MAP readings entirely (No vac advance)

Try to start the car.

If it starts then whip out your timing light to see how far off you are from 0 degrees advanced.

Rotate the 123 until you have about 12 degrees or so at idle then lock it down.

YOu can then modify the curves from the initial 12 degrees of static advance.

This is my plan. I just do not see how it can be install and and play until you get the timing light and programmed advance on the same page.

You could set the start up advance to be 12 degrees, then get the engine started, then with a timing light make sure you have 12 degrees of advance.

Either way, I need to figure out if a stock 240Z tach needs a ballast resistor to work properly.

I have an old 1.5 Ohm Pertronix flamethrower.

I received my dizzy last night. It was well packaged and felt decently made. I played around with the cap and rotor and had some fitment issues (completely on me, I did not fully seat the rotor), so I called the owner Ed. Figured I may or may not hear back. Not only did he text me back at 7:30 PM, he sent me videos about how to properly seat the rotor and what to check for. Then we talked about 20 minutes about the install process and how to set it up. Ed was such a super nice guy, who was very willing to listen and offered great replies and made sure he understood what I was asking.

He confirmed that post dropping in the distributor and getting it running you have to throw a timing light on it, and turn the distributor to ensure the measured crank advance matches the advance in the app. Once the app matches the engine, THEN and only then can you begin to modify the curves.

So what does it mean: make the app match the engine. Well distributor degrees are 2x what crank degrees are. If you want 10 degrees of advance measured at the crank, you have to ask the app to give you 20. (double check me on that guys). Make the change, check the timing. Make any other changes, check the timing. A timing light is essential for this to work or else you will be chasing your tail.

4 hours ago, Zedyone_kenobi said:

If you want 10 degrees of advance measured at the crank, you have to ask the app to give you 20. (double check me on that guys).

The app does the calculation for you. "Degrees crankshaft".

https://123ignition.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Curve-Tabel.jpg

UPDATE: I got her running!!! New 123 is installed and at this point I can say it performs as advertised. Could not start it up for the first 10 minutes and was about ready to cuss as I spent so much time going over the manuals and ensuring all was hooked up properly. Made sure my grounds were good. Then I realized I had not hooked up the last black wire on the dizzy. Yeah, it fired right up afterwards into a steady 500 rpm lope. LOL

Will try to upload a movie of it running. I tried twice but its 17MB. But it is running.

Carbs are still not acting right. I have dead even flow through them, all the same across 6 carbs. Same jets, but my plugs are all over the place. I installed all new floats, float pins and needle and seats in all three carbs. Getting wildly different readings on float level using the Keith Franke clear acrylic tube method. I am 22mm, 25mm, 24mm from the top, which if I recall is to high on all of them. I have 29mm from the tip as the correct setting, but I have to go research it up again.

Excellent! Glad it runs.

I can't help with the triples

I can at this point wrap up this post. The 123 ignition has been a game changer for me. I can say at no point has my car may have never run this strong. The ability to tune and modify to try new curves instantly gives you a rolling dyno anywhere you are. (That is safe). Start up is much improves. Idle is rock solid. The webers, who I started from scratch tuning now respond properly to all inputs as now I have an ignition system that functions as it should. Perhaps my only fear now is what if 123 ignition goes out of business. LOL. Car drove into work today with a zest and smoothness that has been rock solid since for weeks. My Z feels predictable and reliable again like it was from 2010-2020. I cannot say enough about the customer service and quality of the product. Way to go 123~