Good advice, just got home from work, will go put the alternator in.

I assume I should see continuity from the alternator output wire to the positive battery cable?
Will check that before I hook up the battery and see if there is 12 volts on the "T" connector with the key on.

Ok, got it back together

Check for continuity between the alternator output post wire and positive battery cable, which it did.

Started it up, and got 14.8V at the battery........ so that's a good sign.....

I did leave off the positive wires for the circuits that were hooked up to the positive battery cable:

1. Headlight Relay Upgrade

2. Parking Lights Relay Upgrade

3. Driving Lights

4. Stereo

I will work and check those circuits this week.

I suspect now that either the alternator was/is flaky, or one of the wires coming off the alternator might be flaky. I will start it up with and wiggle the wires with a meter connected.

Not sure if I am happy or confused.......

Any other advice on what to check?

Edited yesterday at 08:36 AM1 day by 70z4fun

Maybe the spade connections at the adapter plug just lost contact. "New" connector in to old connector. Would have showed up with the T pin voltage check. Next time...

Might explain the "meltiness" of the adapter also. Poor connections can produce heat.

Edited yesterday at 07:58 PM1 day by Zed Head

I did check out the other four circuits that I did not hook up yesterday, they seem fine. I will get a picture of the diode plastic melted on Thursday.

Tried it again today, and got over 14v at the battery and at the output terminal of the alternator. I wiggled things and did not see a difference. Might remove the output wire on the alternator to see that is frayed or loose......

Also might look at the battery negative wire to the firewire, thinking it might install a threaded post there so that it's a good ground.

You could buy a cigarette lighter USB adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C9DLDN19

It has a built in voltmeter. If you see it dropping below 13VDC while driving, you have a good clue that the alternator isn't putting out current or your battery is going bad.

Not trying to be snarky, but isn't that what the ammeter is for?

Seems like the cause of the problem was a bad connection that got fixed while disconnecting and reconnecting connections. I almost replaced a starter once because of that, and diagnosed a T connector problem at my alternator after I learned that lesson. Examination and adjustment with a pair of pliers (give the female side a squeeze if it's loose) is probably worthwhile on everybody's vehicle.

Good point, I may not of noticed the Ammeter reading negative while driving ( operator error ) but as I recall, it was not in the positive area after I jumped started it.

I did replace my cigarette lighter many moons ago with a USB charger that had a green hue to it. I think I might replace it with something like this, since I can charge things and see what the battery voltage is.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZRRK7ZZ?smid=A177NFKYPJ1LIQ&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp&th=1

I use a similar thing in a boat, nice to see a digital voltage reading.

I am correct in thinking that if the wires were bad at the ammeter, the car would not run? I have not seen issues with

that gauge in the past, but do they fail?

2 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Not trying to be snarky, but isn't that what the ammeter is for?

Seems like the cause of the problem was a bad connection that got fixed while disconnecting and reconnecting connections. I almost replaced a starter once because of that, and diagnosed a T connector problem at my alternator after I learned that lesson. Examination and adjustment with a pair of pliers (give the female side a squeeze if it's loose) is probably worthwhile on everybody's vehicle.

The ammeter doesn't really have good resolution, especially the ones that range from -60 to +60. Also I have no idea whether or not the one on @70z4fun's car has been zeroed out properly. Also consider the first test in the FSM for the alternator is to check the voltage. Why not make it easy and use a digital meter in the car?

Also, one other thing I just remembered. Sometimes people add additional electrical loads to a Z and connect on the battery side of the ammeter. That could give a false indication of a failing alternator.

Edited 1 hour ago1 hr by SteveJ

57 minutes ago, 70z4fun said:

Good point, I may not of noticed the Ammeter reading negative while driving ( operator error ) but as I recall, it was not in the positive area after I jumped started it.

I did replace my cigarette lighter many moons ago with a USB charger that had a green hue to it. I think I might replace it with something like this, since I can charge things and see what the battery voltage is.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZRRK7ZZ?smid=A177NFKYPJ1LIQ&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp&th=1

I use a similar thing in a boat, nice to see a digital voltage reading.

I am correct in thinking that if the wires were bad at the ammeter, the car would not run? I have not seen issues with

that gauge in the past, but do they fail?

An ammeter can fail, but that would also cause the car not to run. Bad wires at the ammeter would also cause the car not to run.