7 hours ago, Patcon said:

@cgsheen1

Can you provide an example of a turn signal you used as a replacement?

I didn't replace the turn signal - just the switch. And it can only be done relatively simply in the '74-'78. 240Z switches have too many contacts and functions intertwined with the overly complicated hazard switch to be replaced by a simple three position rocker switch.

If I didn't have to take mine apart in the 100+ Arizona heat, I'd take a picture. I'll see if I can find the post that put me in that direction - it was not my brainchild.

Found a picture that I took in the "let's see if that would really work" phase. In this picture the "mounting plate" (thin piece of flat aluminum) wasn't trimmed such that it would fit the clamshell. That took a bit of further modification to the shape of that plate. But it did prove that the toggle switch would be actuated by the stock turn signal components. I do not have dimensions without disassembling it. I also think it required a bit of trim on the switch handle for the end of it to fit properly in the "plastic thingy" of the turn signal assembly. (plastic thingy - which happens to be on thingaverse as a 3d printable item...) I got this metal toggle at O'Reilly but they can be had everywhere.

You can see that the stock switch is much more compact and a little searching might find a smaller toggle than this one - and possibly with less protrusive electrical connectors... I wanted something simple and common.

Edited July 15Jul 15 by cgsheen1

On 7/14/2025 at 3:44 PM, cgsheen1 said:

For me at least, this has been an extremely common problem. On BOTH my personal car and many - if not all - the Z's that came through the shop and throughout the Z community here in Phoenix.

Yes, there may be too much amperage going though those contacts as resistance builds up in the wire and connectors BUT:

What I have found in every turn signal switch I've repaired (and that has been MANY) is - The original chrome plating on the solid contacts (non-moving) has worn off due to repeated electric arcing across the contact. When you clean the carbon off it leaves a nice brass contact surface that fouls MUCH more quickly. Therefore, depending on your use, you get another 6 months to a year or so before you have to repeat the contact cleaning process. Then your flashers work well enough for a time and have to be taken apart again. (and, you can only un-bend and re-bend those metal tabs that hold the switch together a certain number of times...)

My flasher switch (which I have absolutely no idea if it was original to the car) worked well for a few years before I had to take it apart and clean the carbon fouled contacts. Then it became a 6-9 month cycle. I finally got tired of that and bought a different turn signal switch assembly off the internet. I was delighted that it worked well and lasted for quite a few years. I'll remind everyone that I daily drive my 260Z so my T/S get a fair amount of use. (I got this Z running and back on the road Spring of 2009)

DROPPING THE AMPERAGE going through the switch will definitely help the contacts to last longer (foul less). But I don't think it's necessarily the ultimate answer.

In my case, that didn't last forever either, and I am done with taking the stock switches apart and cleaning, and cleaning, and cleaning the contacts. SO, I followed another dudes post somewhere and replaced the stock switch with a standard metal 3-position rocker switch mounted such that the arm of the rocker is operated by the stock turn signal arm mechanics. Did it about a year and a half ago and I've been very satisfied with the operation. I can buy another one practically anywhere if I ever need to replace it. Under the clam shell you'd never know it was swapped looking at it. That was my solution.

I will say too that MY 260Z IS HEAVILY MODIFIED and is not trying to be original in it's representation at all. In fact lately I have replaced my entire engine bay harness and replaced all the stock wiring connectors with Deutsch connectors. As well as a new engine harness built for a different ECU and sheathed with Raychem.

The SECOND thing I will mention:

IF you remove the actual switch from the turn signal assembly and push it's little "nubin" that sticks out from side-to-side you'll notice that it goes full motion and insures that the rocker piece(s - if you have a 240) inside will spring solidly onto the fixed contacts EVERY SINGLE time. Now screw it back onto the assembly and watch it's movement. Even when the assembly parts are NEW, they won't move the switch fully from side-to-side! That sliding piece of plastic with the hole moves enough generally to cause the rocker to fall one way or another, but NOT full motion. As that piece of plastic wears against the metal it makes that action more and more sloppy. It affects the action one direction MORE than the other. SO, your LEFT SIDE SIGNAL going away is common. Usually it won't just disappear - it'll become "finicky" and works sporadically usually requiring you to move the T/S lever again or wiggle it to get it engaged (and the V-shaped bar to teeter all the way to one side). I may have pictures of the turn signal switch disassembled but I'm sure they can be found on the interweb.

I tried a few things to combat that problem as well, but in the end moving to a new toggle switch solved both problems.

It was nice to see truthful information about this issue from another experienced person to cut through the character assassination that passes for knowledge from some of the members of this page.

On 7/12/2025 at 1:42 PM, jfa.series1 said:

Thanks Guy, but I am disinclined to follow someone else's work in this case. In his ebay post I noted that he "modified" plastic connectors and the metal base. With all of the switches I have refurbed I have not yet found a need to modify the OE components - sometimes replaced with new or from the parts bin but never modified.

That is because you do not completely disassemble your switches before restoration.

You also have not unlocked the hidden performance upgrade in your turn signal switches due to certain modifications.

Edited 10 minutes ago10 min by dpar

On 7/11/2025 at 4:15 PM, Terrapin Z said:

Daniel Parsignault is Datsuniverse and he's been an eBay player for a long time.

I have sold him things and have bought a few things. I liken him California Datsun for "rebuilt parts" That is just my opinion of course.

On 7/10/2025 at 7:14 PM, z3beemer said:

When i did my restoration project on my 73Z I purchased a rebuilt turn signal switch from datsun universe. It worked great for about a year. The other day I started having problems with the turn signal on the left side. It would not lock in or illuminate. Everything on the right side worked fine. After checking all the obvious potential culprits, I contacted datsun universe and he told me to send it in and he'd check it out. Below is his response as to what he found and a potential long-term fix. My question is: does anyone know who may sell this modification or how to fabricate one. By the way, the guy at datsun universe is a great guy, very helpful, and fast turn around. I also bought a reconditioned headlight switch from him as well. He does all the rebuilding himself.

Datsun Universe reply to me.....

"Hello Paul, the attached picture illustrates what your switch issue is; too much voltage coursing through the switch and fouling the contacts. This is a normal issue for a 240z. When I measured continuity on the left side turn signal switch it fluctuated between 35.xx ohms and 65.xx ohms. Anything over .19 ohms is going to start causing problems for switch operation.

I knew I was going to find something like this when I opened the turn signal switch up. The long term solution for this issue is to invest in a 240z aftermarket plug and play turn signal relay harness. It only sends something like 2 amps through the switch as opposed to the 13 or so that comes from the stock direct battery hook up.

I cleaned the contacts and changed the spring plate and turn signal switch housing and the freshly painted turn signal lever will dry overnight.. You have a good switch here;

The turn signal geometry and parts thereof are good, the stroke of the turn signal lever is good. the lever locks in place like is supposed to, the switch return function still works etc.

I would invest in that relay harness or learn to clean the contacts yourself ( s30 ZCAR switches are made to disassemble for maintenance) as my switch warranty is voided by vehicle electrical causing switch damage so that is the end of my commitment concerning repair of your switch".

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Here's the start. Notable that there's no way for too much voltage unless there's a problem with the voltage regulator. I think he meant current.

The best way to handle disparaging comments is with postitive comments. Take the high road.

On 7/10/2025 at 9:20 PM, Zed Head said:

But, the cure for the headlight and running lights problem is a relay so if your switch works and you want to avoid the problem in the future a relay would be a good idea.

1 minute ago, Zed Head said:

Take the high road.

On 7/12/2025 at 4:30 AM, Diseazd said:

Can’t understand why these things don’t work properly….they’re only 54 years old.

My comment was about the headlight power supply switch. This thread is about the turn signal part of it.

Your best path forward is to address the comments of the very first post.

It's business, not personal. Ba da beep... Good luck.

Have a nice day, people!

Edited 13 minutes ago13 min by dpar