S30.World I wouldn’t give it another thought. Many folks on this site have purchased tanks from them including myself and were very satisfied.

Submerge the sending unit in CLR (calcium, lime, and rust) for 24 - 48 hrs. It will come out clean and usable.

You can also bench test it before you reinstall it. Quite a few articles here on the site referencing that.

I've done two tanks and it's not hard. You have to get everything together and plan it out as things have to be done pretty quick. 10 years ago it was $50 for all the chemicals. The only thing is letting it cure for about a month, most important. So if your in hurry to get on the road buy a new one. If not clean and coat it yourself.

A gallon of acid, $5, couple boxes of baking soda, $5, gallon of acetone $10, quart of red-kote $30. Plenty of empty 5 gallon buckets and a leaf blower.

I borrowed ideas from these two guys and added a few of my own from past motorcycle tank plus the instructions from Red-Kote.

https://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm

https://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/240z-fuel-tank/

https://www.damonq.com/techsheets/red-kote.pdf

What would you say the success rate is. I’ve seen both results reported here. The overall condition of the tank is probably going to be the deciding factor. I had my tank redone at a shop, keep in mind you’re at their mercy as far as the job you get. At the end of the day my tank began to leak from minuscule rust pit holes. That’s when I decided to purchase a new tank. Again it’s all about what shape your tank is in and you really won’t know until you remove it.

1 hour ago, Yarb said:

What would you say the success rate is. I’ve seen both results reported here. The overall condition of the tank is probably going to be the deciding factor. I had my tank redone at a shop, keep in mind you’re at their mercy as far as the job you get. At the end of the day my tank began to leak from minuscule rust pit holes. That’s when I decided to purchase a new tank. Again it’s all about what shape your tank is in and you really won’t know until you remove it.

Mine were more crud from leaving old gas in them for too long. The tanks were good and solid after I pressure washed the outside of them. That muriatic acid made the inside like new but after sloshing around for 5 minutes I had to pour in about 3 gallons of mixed ahead of time baking soda and water to neutralize the acid then emptied that into an empty 5 and killed a lot of ant beds around my property. Then the acetone to remove the water, quick hit with the leaf blower and then the Red-Kote. Sloshed that around completely covering the tank and let that drain out into another 5 then direct sunlight for 30 minutes, then another round with the leaf blower. Then I put that bitch on a shelf and got drunk. It was very nerve wracking for this 'ol boy, but when all was said and done I was and still am proud of what I did. You see, I hate following directions.

Edited 1 hour ago1 hr by siteunseen

2 hours ago, siteunseen said:

I borrowed ideas from these two guys and added a few of my own from past motorcycle tank plus the instructions from Red-Kote.

https://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm

https://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/240z-fuel-tank/

https://www.damonq.com/techsheets/red-kote.pdf

These are gold!! Thank you!

I had considered trying to clean it myself, but i am in an apartment building for now and I'm not really keen on using that stuff and leaving it unventilated. Besides, I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to get the wheel well replaced before I can put the tank back in. I don't think there is enough metal left in that area to support it for long. I'm not far from Denver so there are a few restoration shops around and I'm sure they will have a better idea if its salvageable or not.