4/75 Datsun 280Z; Leaf Green, CA market, 250K miles, Long Term Project 03/2023-

[HusseinHolland]

Got the rear strut brace done this afternoon. First I figured out the angle I needed to set the strut plate at

Probably 15º, I measured it closer to 16º with my rudimentary tools

 

I futzed around trying to make a card template, but my geometry skills suck, so I just clamped my angle tool to the support

Tacked both & checked the fit

then I welded them fully

Then I fitted them & measured the span at 29.75". I cut the 1.75" tube to just over that, then shaved a dip in the ends to fit snug on the vertical plates, checked that it is level (same as car)

After that I fully welded the tube to the supports. Deep socket still clears support wall

original caps still fit

Edited January 2 by HusseinHolland

[grannyknot]

Nicely done, the curved section, is it a piece of pipe you cut down or did you roll it out?

 

[HusseinHolland]

3 minutes ago, grannyknot said:

Nicely done, the curved section, is it a piece of pipe you cut down or did you roll it out?

Bar stock, I rolled it in the vice

Edited December 19, 2023 by HusseinHolland

[HusseinHolland]

On 12/17/2023 at 9:12 PM, Patcon said:

If it were me, I am a builder, I would run a sub fascia across the end of all the rafters. A 2x6 at a minimum or maybe a 2x8. I would add rafters at the window and door with out the braces. Fastened well on the building side and the sub fascia. I would then strap the top with 1x4's a 16"OC or maybe even 12"OC.

@Patcon - can't find the answer to this online - should I cut the subfacia @ 15degrees to match the rafter & set it at the level of the 1x4, or leave it be & align with the rafter top?

TIA

[Patcon]

We dont ever bevel them. We set the outside edge flush with the roof deck. Like your second sketch

[HusseinHolland]

Had time to add the sub facia, at least the 14" section. I used joist hangers on the 3 rafters without braces, at the header

@Patcon - wondering if I should add hangers on the same 3 rafters at the sub facia, for additional support. I have to add a 4' sub facia on the end - I figured I should add angle brackets to tie the 2 sub facia sections to the rafter, since they sit midway on the rafter end

 

Edited December 21, 2023 by HusseinHolland

[Yarb]

I’m definitely not a carpenter nor a builder like @patcon but what do you think about inserting 2x4 horizontally between the joists not only to strengthen but keep them from bowing. Just curious 

[Pat Carr]

Adding 2x4's between the joists won't be necessary as long as whatever decking he installs is adequately nailed to the joists.

[Patcon]

He is strapping the top of the 2x4s w 1x's so that will tie them all together.

Hangers wont hurt anything. Im not totally sure they're necessary but they're fairly cheap in the overall scheme. The most susceptible location is actually the top of the rafters that have kickers. The portion of the rafter that hangs out past the kicker will want to pivot down when loaded. The kicker will act as a hinge point putting a lot of load on the top connection

At the wall to roof transition, no j channel. Your flashing needs to preferably go under the siding and must turn out on top of the roofing. If not it will funnel water under the roof. They should offer a rubber weatherstripping for sealing the corrugation. You could use that under the counter flashing at the top if it needs closing up. If you cant get under the siding with the counter flashing You could seal it to the siding with some good sealant. Maybe a urethane with some 3d or 4d nails to hold it down

[HusseinHolland]

On 12/20/2023 at 11:16 PM, Patcon said:

He is strapping the top of the 2x4s w 1x's so that will tie them all together.

Hangers wont hurt anything. Im not totally sure they're necessary but they're fairly cheap in the overall scheme. The most susceptible location is actually the top of the rafters that have kickers. The portion of the rafter that hangs out past the kicker will want to pivot down when loaded. The kicker will act as a hinge point putting a lot of load on the top connection

At the wall to roof transition, no j channel. Your flashing needs to preferably go under the siding and must turn out on top of the roofing. If not it will funnel water under the roof. They should offer a rubber weatherstripping for sealing the corrugation. You could use that under the counter flashing at the top if it needs closing up. If you cant get under the siding with the counter flashing You could seal it to the siding with some good sealant. Maybe a urethane with some 3d or 4d nails to hold it down

Thank you again. I will scrap the J channel idea. I can't find flashing that is corrugated for steel panels, or foam 'wave' closure that conforms to the panel contour, which was the main reason I was considering the J channel. I did find a 1" foam tape that is meant for metal panels, so I'll get that to use under the flashing, over the panel at the siiding, and at the facia end . Finding angle flashing besides drip edge seems to be problematic. I'll have to see what I can find.

I got 1x4's along the top & outer edge of the rafters, along with another strip when the upper & lower roof panels will need to overlap. I still need to add another length of 1x4 in the middle of the span. I put tar paper along the outer 1x4 overlapping the sub facia. I will see if I can pry up the siding to tuck flashing under. I wedged tar paper up under the siding ridge as it stands, I can seal flashing up against that if not under.

Test fitting the lower section of the roofing, with 3" overhang. I found that the 4th rafter from the right is not 24" OC, so I need to add a sister(?) rafter at 24" OC. Still have to buy the gutter. I had bought 1x6 to use as facia, not sure I need to bother with that now I have the 2x6. I could add drip edge, but I don't know if that's a requirement with a guttered awning. 

 

 

Edited December 22, 2023 by HusseinHolland

[Patcon]

Tar paper won't hold up long term. Over time it gets very brittle.

The foam closure at the top is probably a good idea to keep insects out. The one at the bottom isn't really doing anything since the under side of the roof is open

"Drip cap"? As in a metal drip edge flashing or a small piece of running trim to force water off the fascia board?

[HusseinHolland]

5 hours ago, Patcon said:

Tar paper won't hold up long term. Over time it gets very brittle.

The foam closure at the top is probably a good idea to keep insects out. The one at the bottom isn't really doing anything since the under side of the roof is open

"Drip cap"? As in a metal drip edge flashing or a small piece of running trim to force water off the fascia board?

Yes - the metal 90 degree drip cap / edge flashing.

I'll ditch the foam at the bottom, didn't seem to make sense, just what I've seen looking online - probably referencing closed structures.

At some point I'm going to extend the garage footprint rearward, so all this really only has to last a few years

Edit- I do have the butyl type wide seal tape that I used for the frame openings on the new window installs I did some years back. I can use that instead of the tar paper, just have to heat the wood somewhat, it doesn't act very sticky in 30 degree weather 

Edited December 22, 2023 by HusseinHolland