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How to : Removing the dashboard in a 1975 280Z ?


Killain

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Well the A/C is working and fuel tank is back in and again, all system up and running, but now the straw that broke the camels back so to speak, I need to replace the speedometer, and the other two gauge pods. What is the best way to remove the dashboard and replace the gauge pods and speedometer ?

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If all you're doing is removing one or more of the gauges it isn't necessary to remove the dash. Refer to the factory service manual. Don't have one - get one!! Best tool you'll ever buy.

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Why are you concerned with dimming the bulbs? I haven't found a need to dim the gauge bulbs in any car I've driven since I can't remember when. If you REALLY want to be able to dim the lights, you can use a PWM or search for dimmable LEDs.

Just throwing in brighter incandescent bulbs can give you other issues. The power for the dash lights comes from the same circuit as the running lights. It's not difficult to burn up the connector on the headlight switch for that circuit. You need to minimize the current flowing through it to extend it's life. 

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Ok, I've never worked on a 280Z so I'm feeling my way through the list of issues I have in front of me. Just not too sure that LED's are the right way to go, but. . . .   Thank you for your help !

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I used these:

Amazon.com: QasimLed Bayonet BA9 BA9S 53 57 1895 64111 T4W Super Stable and Bright Led Bulbs Exterior Marker Indicator Interior Reverse Side Corner Light White 12V DC 10pcs : Everything Else 

They are dimmable and work with the stock rheostat. But like SteveJ said: "I haven't found a need to dim the gauge bulbs ... since I can't remember when." But then I live in Phoenix and don't get out driving in the country at night much. Lotta "light pollution" here.

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3 hours ago, cgsheen1 said:

I used these:

Amazon.com: QasimLed Bayonet BA9 BA9S 53 57 1895 64111 T4W Super Stable and Bright Led Bulbs Exterior Marker Indicator Interior Reverse Side Corner Light White 12V DC 10pcs : Everything Else 

They are dimmable and work with the stock rheostat. But like SteveJ said: "I haven't found a need to dim the gauge bulbs ... since I can't remember when." But then I live in Phoenix and don't get out driving in the country at night much. Lotta "light pollution" here.

Hay, These are different, but will they fit into the small lens that is inside the different gauges ? On my fuel gauge, once you remove the bulb is a small green lens it looks to me, But they are very different than most everything I'm finding ?  Thank you,

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Mine have been in since September, I daily drive my 260Z, and I've actually driven quite a bit using them at night (I have LED replacements for my H4 bulbs in my headlight housings now and they are BRIGHT) - even a couple of 3 hour night trips up in the mountains.

After changing all the gauge bulbs, I replaced all my turn signal and brake lamps with LED bulbs as well. Probably should do the same in my side markers...

20 hours ago, Killain said:

Hay, These are different, but will they fit into the small lens that is inside the different gauges ?

The ones I bought are "short" enough to fit well inside the green lenses of the gauges. 

If you remove your gauges, it pays to disassemble them and re-paint the inside of the gauge body with flat white paint. I tape over the green lens and shoot the inside of the "can" - that bounces a lot more light out of the can and onto the gauge face and needle. Made a big difference even while I was using incandescent bulbs.

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Posted (edited)
On 8/3/2022 at 4:06 PM, cgsheen1 said:

Mine have been in since September, I daily drive my 260Z, and I've actually driven quite a bit using them at night (I have LED replacements for my H4 bulbs in my headlight housings now and they are BRIGHT) - even a couple of 3 hour night trips up in the mountains.

After changing all the gauge bulbs, I replaced all my turn signal and brake lamps with LED bulbs as well. Probably should do the same in my side markers...

The ones I bought are "short" enough to fit well inside the green lenses of the gauges. 

If you remove your gauges, it pays to disassemble them and re-paint the inside of the gauge body with flat white paint. I tape over the green lens and shoot the inside of the "can" - that bounces a lot more light out of the can and onto the gauge face and needle. Made a big difference even while I was using incandescent bulbs.

Hay Thanks cgsheen1,, I was gone for the last few days, I got a chance to get some time in an old Bell 47g and it was better than I expected. New and modern is great, but there is nothing compare to a open cockpit 54year old Bell helicopter, no doors, no bell or chimes, just you and the machine. I sent my gauges out for cleaning, maintenance and a calibration. I'm going to need to locate a locale Z club and maybe a shop who can do the semi dash removal and install my new restored gauges. I suffered a back injury 13 years ago, and there's no way I can work the dash out far enough to remove the gauges on my own. This This is the last item on my list for this 280Z. I've done a number or things like removing and having my locale upholstery shop who striped and installed new foam and I was able to find a Vinyl material manufacturer and got a yard of material damn close to the worn out spot on the drivers seat and you would be very surprised how well the whole job finished. It is the seat below and the side left bolster section that was replaced, pretty good for a 47 year seat fabric ?  And on my trip down south, I gave a lot of thought to s 5 speed swap from the 4 speed, and the benefits from the swap are truly marginal all things considered. If it were a complete change of gears and ratios, and that is really bordering on the semi-impossible and the gain is marginal. The only thing other than that is I need to give it a major tune-up. I did the valves earlier this years, but a complete change of plugs wires and timing check is in order. It is a early built 1975 280Z and it has no rust at all, that alone is remarkable on it's own. Here's the resewn driver seat I install last April.

SANY0003 (10).JPG

Edited by Killain
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