Jump to content

IGNORED

Haltech wiring ignition basic questions


Blitzed

Recommended Posts

If it's a Standard, it's "in spec".

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1973,240z,2.4l+l6,1209170,electrical,voltage+regulator,4884

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=45627&cc=1209170&pt=4884&jsn=844

https://www.rockauto.com/genImages/154/GF10221B.pdf

MECHANIC'S SERVICE TIPS (MECHANICAL VOLTAGE REGULATORS) TEMPERATURE COMPENSATION FEATURES All VRs are designed to compensate for changes in temperature, matching the output voltage to the needs of the battery. They produce higher voltage in cold weather and lower voltage in warm weather, especially the electromechanical type. This in turn affects the voltage calibration, therefore you should always operate a voltage regulator for 20 minutes to stabilize the internal heating effects before checking the voltage setting. Voltage specifications of regulators after 20 minutes warm up (at 70 °F) are 13.5 - 15.0 volts for alternator output currents between 3 - 21 amp.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Haltech has a separate PDM module or the new Nexus unit is all in one. Really designed for race applications, running different fuels, NOS and boost.

Purchased the Elite 750 good fit for a straight 6.  Internal MAP sensor, wide band O2 is a separate module. 

The PDM  would be nice for my in-tank fuel pump and injectors but overkill for the amps drawn on my application. Will just replace relays and fuses when they burn. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Hi All,

Hope everyone is healthy. EFI conversion is moving forward. Upgrading the alternator to MSA 60 amp kit with wiring harness connector.  Config now: 1973 240Z fuel pump delete. Understand the fuel pump is connected to the VR or the alternator on 73. 

Question how do I terminate fuel pump connection with the new connector? The ECU installed has a 12v fuel pump wire through a relay and 15 amp fuse. So the fuel pump wire on the existing harness serves no purpose would prefer that is was not active.  Already upgraded the fuse box. 

Thanks,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's been a long time since I removed the piggy back harness for the fuel pump relay. I'm not sure whether or not I trashed it. Anyway, I believe the piggyback harness is between the voltage regulator and the engine bay harness. You should be able to identify a yellow wire that should branch off the harness to the passenger compartment. It goes to the fuel pump relay in the kick panel.

The easiest way to defeat the factory modification is just to unplug the relays in the passenger kick panel.

image.png

Are you looking at connecting the new fuel pump power wire to the old factory wire running back to the fuel pump?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Steve J,

Yes will run a new fuel pump wire to the pump to the ECU wire . Goal is to disrupt the existing harness as little as possible. So would like to leave the fuel pump wire at the alt in place just disconnect.  

My kick panel does not have either relay. So if the relays do not exist does a FP wire to the VR exist?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Blitzed said:

Steve J,

Yes will run a new fuel pump wire to the pump to the ECU wire . Goal is to disrupt the existing harness as little as possible. So would like to leave the fuel pump wire at the alt in place just disconnect.  

My kick panel does not have either relay. So if the relays do not exist does a FP wire to the VR exist?

There was never a wire from the VR to the fuel pump. The yellow wire from between the alternator and the VR is the neutral from the alternator. It had enough voltage and current to energize the coil for the fuel pump relay. If the relay is gone, there is no circuit to control. You have two open circuits.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A typical battery has WAAAAYYY more than 60 amps available.  "Strain" is initiated by the load not the availability.  You might only run in to problems if you tried to charge a dead battery with the alternator, the charging wire might get hot.  Even then you've only added 10 amps of capacity.  No concerns seen.

image.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi All,

Progression on the EFI install. New larger fuel line required (out). Running a return line set-up regulating the return side. 

Question: can the or has anyone used the crank PCV valve vent line running on the driver side to the vent tank (rear) as fuel line? 73 240z. Believe this hard line is 5/16?

Planning on running a crank vent can so the vent line will be terminated and removed. 

Thank you. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

See pic, steel line at bottom of the pic runs from the driver side to the rear vent tank (rear pillar) . two vacuum line connectors (top of pic) one for the crank vent tube the other to the air cleaner. 

Question: can the or has anyone used the crank PCV valve vent line running on the driver side to the vent tank (rear) as fuel line? 73 240z. Believe this hard line is 5/16?

73 240z.

Vent line.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Hi All,

Searched brake lines fittings, could not find the answer. Brake line fitting tread size and pitch? Ton data on the hex size (11mm or 10mm) but not the actual thread size and pitch for the fitting. Need to build a single brake line.  

Thank you, 

73 240Z 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

47 minutes ago, Blitzed said:

Hi All,

Searched brake lines fittings, could not find the answer. Brake line fitting tread size and pitch? Ton data on the hex size (11mm or 10mm) but not the actual thread size and pitch for the fitting. Need to build a single brake line.  

Thank you, 

73 240Z 

https://www.zcar.com/threads/brake-line-size.58963/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Blitzed said:

Hi All,

Searched brake lines fittings, could not find the answer. Brake line fitting tread size and pitch? Ton data on the hex size (11mm or 10mm) but not the actual thread size and pitch for the fitting. Need to build a single brake line.  

Thank you, 

73 240Z 

Most auto parts stores have a selection of pre-fitted brake lines of various lengths.  You can take your old parts in and compare and test fit.  Use a piece of wire or string to run down your old line to get the length.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...

Hi All,

Hope all is well. Question on proper crankcase venting on a L28 NA . In the home stretch (positive thoughts) on the EFI /ITB conversion. Final issue to address is crankcase venting with the stock pcv valve removed from the manifold position.

Is the stock config a open or close system? Would the stock hose and PCV valve to the manifold be considered a close system? as the PCV valve will open and close only under pressure changes.

If pressure escapes to the valve cover and the vent hose is connected to the back of the air filter housing, wouldn't this be considered an open system?

So is a duel catch can set-up required or will a single vented can work? 

Maybe over thinking this issue, this is a lower HP engine (NA) non boosted. 

Thanks for your help. 

itb pic.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, Blitzed said:

Is the stock config a open or close system? Would the stock hose and PCV valve to the manifold be considered a close system? as the PCV valve will open and close only under pressure changes.

If pressure escapes to the valve cover and the vent hose is connected to the back of the air filter housing, wouldn't this be considered an open system?

The original system is considered a closed system. By "closed" they mean that there are no running conditions under which the crankcase vapors are released out into the atmosphere.

PCV theory says that pressure escaping out of the valve cover nipple would only occur under high blow-by conditions. And in a healthy engine, that would only occur at high throttle high load conditions. If that's the case, your carbs are sucking a lot of air and anything that gets pushed out into the air cleaner box turns around and gets sucked into the carbs and is burned in the engine.

PCV theory also says that under low blow-by conditions the crankcase vapors are pulled into the intake manifold through the PCV valve.

The vapors never escape out into the atmosphere, and hence is a "closed system".

If you're running one of those little air filtery thingies on your valve cover nipple, then its not a closed system anymore. If you're running catch cans with little filters on them, it's not a closed system anymore.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.