On 10/18/2025 at 10:23 PM, Patcon said:

Do you have a 510 door or trim with any remnants on it?

Let me take a look. I only have a 2 door, not a wagon. I have some NOS outer stainless strips. And I may have the inner strips as well. I will try to get some pictures for you.

The first two pics are some 510 4 door outer door/window trim pieces. The second two are 510 2 door outer door/window trim pieces. The rubber looks to be the same shape to me for each of them. The next two pics show the groove on the inside top edge of the door where the inner rubber w/s goes. It is a simple u channel. The last three pictures are of NOS inner rubber weather strips for the 2 door. The front and rear doors of the wagon should use the same inner and outer w/s from a design standpoint, right?

Cody continues to make progress on his car.

Thanks to SteveJ for helping us sort the engine bay harness @SteveJ

He has the harness in and has started sorting out the electrical issues. There are quite a few

We think we have a solution for the throttle control. It's loosely based on Ken Firch's cable system. His bracket won't work but we are working on making a heat shiel that will also hold a throttle cable and hooks for the throttle return screws. It will mount to the two lower studs on the SU's. The smaller SU's only have two studs and they are set diagonally.

We are planning on using the the mounts at the balance tube to add a different 10mm OD tube with a donor part from a 240z. Which will supply a ball end for the cable to connect to

I worked on a template for the heat shield today. I don't have a good way to brake the sheet metal so we will need to sort that out. We are leaning towards using 1mm stainless sheet...

I have a 30" Harborfreight brake. What kinds of electrical issues are you finding?

44 minutes ago, SteveJ said:

I have a 30" Harborfreight brake. What kinds of electrical issues are you finding?

He didn't have license plates lights. He found that one. It was an unconnected ground up by the hatch torsion bars.

His reverse lights have him stumped. One works; the other doesn't. It shows voltage and continuity but won't light up.

He added LED's in the gauge pod but they flash slowly and we don't know why...

I told him to text you... He hasn't yet

8 minutes ago, Patcon said:

He didn't have license plates lights. He found that one. It was an unconnected ground up by the hatch torsion bars.

His reverse lights have him stumped. One works; the other doesn't. It shows voltage and continuity but won't light up.

He added LED's in the gauge pod but they flash slowly and we don't know why...

I told him to text you... He hasn't yet

Make sure the reverse lights have continuity on the ground side.

For the gauge lights, make sure the rheostat is at full bright.

13 hours ago, Patcon said:

I don't have a good way to brake the sheet metal so we will need to sort that out.

I've seen good results achieved by hammering the metal over the long edge of a length of 6" structural I-beam. Use Vise-Grips to clamp the metal to the I-beam. Then hammer from one end to the other, making 3 to 4 passes to get from flat to fully bent.