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1/71 #18720 a.k.a. Sakura


73str86

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3 hours ago, Zed Head said:

That's pretty high up there in RPM.  Curious about the hp/tq?  Usually they're reported separately.  Which is which?  And where/when?  The curves would be nice to see.

This dyno sheet is from 2018 at RPM Performance in Colorado Springs, CO. I edited the numbers. The cam was a lot weaker than I expected. Also my Mikunis and timing are dialed in much further than my previous setup. 

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2 hours ago, Marty Rogan said:

Ok, the suspense is killing me.  What kind of power did you get?   It sounds really good.

The dyno chart is on the previous page. 129 rwhp / 140 rwtq at 6000 ft elevation.

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Next up was filling the rivet holes made by the PO around the wheel wells. There were 27 holes total. I sanded the areas to bare metal with an 80 grit flap wheel. A local mobile welder filled the holes with his tig welder and sanded them smooth. All in all I am happy about my decision to save the wheel wells. I painted the wheel lips with 3 coats of grey primer and 2 coats of Rustoleum satin black. Some paint around the welded areas blistered, but I'm not too worried about that because the car is going to a paint shop this summer for an original color 901 silver respray.

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The flap wheels exposed the history of the car: the rear quarters were all original, no bondo, just the original paint and black respray. Neither front fender was original...they had red and teal paint under the black. Both had bondo but no rust was found. I think the PO (sadly) added bondo to the wheel lips to help the cheap flares fit better.

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13 hours ago, grannyknot said:

Your lucky the metal wheel lips were still there under those flares, usually it's all been cut away.  Yes, the exhaust note was beautiful on the dyno.

I agree. At the time of purchase I wasn't too concerned with the rivet holes. Hopefully the body shop can finish my core work successfully.

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A 1-1/8 inch hole saw is a perfect fit to ream out the front control arm bushings. All bushings will be replaced with polyurethane with the exception of the tension control rod bushings. Those will be a combination of rubber and the G-Machine kit from MSA.

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I have owned 3 240z cars previously.  All had the later style 4 speed.  I am putting together an early car with the series 1 transmission.  I hear they feel sloppy compared to the later version.  Is that your opinion?  Do you plan to keep the series 1 transmission?

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