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motorman7

We're bringin' back the Flat Tops!

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Got the rear quarter windows cleaned up and installed.  Also have the rear panel finisher temporarily installed with some small screws (Yes, I think that is my finger).  Waiting for my small rivets to come in.  Started work on the front firewall as well.  It's starting to look like a car.  Will probably get going on the doors next.

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Rich.....I don’t know what you charge, but I’m sure it isn’t enough!!!!!    Very, very nice.

Edited by Diseazd
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2 hours ago, Diseazd said:

Rich.....I don’t know what you charge, but I’m sure it isn’t enough!!!!!    Very, very nice.

 

Thanks Guy!  The profits are used to support my Z habit......I probably need to go to rehab.

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19 hours ago, Diseazd said:

Rich.....I don’t know what you charge, but I’m sure it isn’t enough!!!!!    Very, very nice.

I agree. Motorman ought to raise his rates.... AFTER he gets done with this car!  <grin>

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Made some more progress this week.  Got the soundproofing in on the doors, firewall and the front floors.  I used the Noico mat because I like the weight and flex of the material.  It makes a huge difference in the interior sound level when the car is running.  I also like the feel and sound of the doors when they close with the Noico mat.  Without the mat, the doors have that tinny 'tink' sound when you open and close them (drives me up the wall).  With the Noico mat installed, the sound is like a modern car.  You get the solid, deep 'thunk' when you close the door.  On my yellow Z, I have the mat in the drivers door and nothing in the passenger door just for demo purposes.  People are pretty amazed at the the difference in sound.
   Started the heater and fan install, got the shifter installed along with a new rubber boot.  Also got the handbrake installed.  Cleaned and installed the speedo cable and then disassembled the seats.  That was a task.  The lower bolts were rusted in pretty good and I had to drill the head off of three of them.  After that, used the vise grips to thread the 'headless' flat head' screw out the far side of the fitting.  The rear frame of the seat was pretty corroded, so I will drop that off at the powder coater tomorrow along with the stock rims that I picked up last week.  I removed the old interior vinyl around the door pillars and roof headliner.  All the new vinyl is in along with the seat foam and vinyl.  I was tempted to install the headliner today, but will wait till I am a little bit farther along.  The snow white interior will probably pick up marks pretty easy so I will definitely be careful with it.  Here are a few pics.. 

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Got the radiator re-cored with a heavy duty 3-row core.  Installed radiator, fan clutch and fan.  Also cleaned up fuel pump and installed that.  I am picking up the hatch tomorrow, so figured I would put in the hatch weather stripping.  My favorite part of dointg the weather stripping is peeling the glue off of my fingers afterwards....very entertaining.  Ordered the engine compartment braided hoses from Jay at jdm-car-parts.com.  Those should arrive in the next day or two.  Also cleaned up the electrical harness.  Will install that once I get the new harness firewall boot.

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Got the electrical harness cleaned up and replaced most of the connectors.  Got the new elec harness firewall boot on.  You will never guess how I got the boot on (there is a hint in the picture).  All those large connectors have to fit through that 1 inch diameter hole.  You can't slide it over from the opposite side because there is a very large connector near the voltage regulator.  Will post details on that tomorrow. Car is a bit dusty in the pics.

 

Got the vent air ducts and braided hoses in from Jay at jdm-car-parts.com.  They look awesome as always.  Now to look for some wire clamps on ebay.   Got the heater housing cleaned and painted and installed that along with the fan.  Also got the bottom seat frame back from the powder coater.  Will post pics of those later.  

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Edited by motorman7
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1 hour ago, motorman7 said:

Got the electrical harness cleaned up and replaced most of the connectors.  Got the new elec harness firewall boot on.  You will never guess how I got the boot on (there is a hint in the picture).  All those large connectors have to fit through that 1 inch diameter hole.  You can't slide it over from the opposite side because there is a very large connector near the voltage regulator.  Will post details on that tomorrow. Car is a bit dusty in the pics.

 

Got the vent air ducts and braided hoses in from Jay at jdm-car-parts.com.  They look awesome as always.  Now to look for some wire clamps on ebay.   Got the heater housing cleaned and painted and installed that along with the fan.  Also got the bottom seat frame back from the powder coater.  Will post pics of those later.  

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You cut the rubber boot half way and slid it over the wire harness?

Edited by hiyabrad

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So glad to see proper black ignition wires.

No red, green, yellow, or blue for this one! LOL

Lookin' great Mr. Rich!

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9 hours ago, hiyabrad said:

You cut the rubber boot half way and slid it over the wire harness?

Good guess.  Believe me, I was very tempted to do that and then wrap the boot with tape, but that never turns out well.  Eventually the tape gives way and the split shows. 

So, to get the boot on, I was able to slide the blue connector and the white connector through the boot by turning them sideways and sliding/pushing them through. I also applied a little heat with a hair dryer to make the rubber a bit more pliable during this operation.  At this point, the number of wires now passing through the boot will not let the other large connectors fit through the hole.  So, next I put all the smaller connector wires through the boot which left just the large black connector and large green connector remaining.  At this point, starting with the black connector,  I removed each wired terminal from the connector housing and passed the wire through the boot, then re-inserted each wire terminal back into the connector housing.  I did this for all the wires starting with the black connector then finishing up with the green.  the last few wires of the green connector were pretty snug passing through the boot, but eventually I got them all through.  Such a pain, but much better than cutting the boot.

 

8 hours ago, Zup said:

So glad to see proper black ignition wires.

No red, green, yellow, or blue for this one! LOL

I know, It looks so much better with the black.   There is also some small writing in gold on the wires but I will rotate the wires so they are on the underside and not highly visible.   Thanks!

Edited by motorman7
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1 hour ago, motorman7 said:

Good guess.  Believe me, I was very tempted to do that and then wrap the boot with tape, but that never turns out well.  Eventually the tape gives way and the split shows. 

So, to get the boot on, I was able to slide the blue connector and the white connector through the boot by turning them sideways and sliding/pushing them through. I also applied a little heat with a hair dryer to make the rubber a bit more pliable during this operation.  At this point, the number of wires now passing through the boot will not let the other large connectors fit through the hole.  So, next I put all the smaller connector wires through the boot which left just the large black connector and large green connector remaining.  At this point, starting with the black connector,  I removed each wired terminal from the connector housing and passed the wire through the boot, then re-inserted each wire terminal back into the connector housing.  I did this for all the wires starting with the black connector then finishing up with the green.  the last few wires of the green connector were pretty snug passing through the boot, but eventually I got them all through.  Such a pain, but much better than cutting the boot.

 

Excellent work!  I knew my answer was too easy and not good enough. But what was the clue in the pic?

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9 minutes ago, hiyabrad said:

Excellent work!  I knew my answer was too easy and not good enough. But what was the clue in the pic?

The small red pack of Starrett precision screwdrivers.  I use a very small screwdriver to release the terminal from the connector block.  There are probably 'official' tools for doing that, but the small blade screwdriver does the trick, lifting the locking feature of the terminal.

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3 hours ago, motorman7 said:

The small red pack of Starrett precision screwdrivers.  I use a very small screwdriver to release the terminal from the connector block.  There are probably 'official' tools for doing that, but the small blade screwdriver does the trick, lifting the locking feature of the terminal.

 Vintage connectors sell this tools for the 6mm and 3mm connectors.

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15 hours ago, motorman7 said:

Got the electrical harness cleaned up and replaced most of the connectors.  Got the new elec harness firewall boot on.  You will never guess how I got the boot on (there is a hint in the picture).  All those large connectors have to fit through that 1 inch diameter hole.  You can't slide it over from the opposite side because there is a very large connector near the voltage regulator.  Will post details on that tomorrow. Car is a bit dusty in the pics.

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Could you give us more detail on how you cleaned up the electrical harness? Did you rewrap, rewire, etc., etc. Also, can you tell us where you bought the parts (connectors, tape, wire, etc.?). Thank you.

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27 minutes ago, hiyabrad said:

Could you give us more detail on how you cleaned up the electrical harness? Did you rewrap, rewire, etc., etc. Also, can you tell us where you bought the parts (connectors, tape, wire, etc.?). Thank you.

I cleaned the electrical harness first with Windex to remove most of the dirt and then with a rag that had paint thinner on it to remove oils.  After that, I re-wrapped the harness over the original wrap as the wrap was in fairly good condition.  (I have also done harnesses where I have removed the original wrap because it was in bad shape or had a short and I had to re-route wires).  I used Hi-temp black electrical tape over the original wrap.  I started at the small end and finished at the large end.

I replaced all of the engine area connectors with new connectors from vintageconnections.com .  For the singe blade and bullet connectors, I clipped off the old terminal as close to the back of the terminal as possible and replaced with new crimped on terminals and covers.  For the 2, 4 and 6 pin connectors I did pretty much the same.  So essentially, all the terminations are about an 1/8" shorter than the original with the old terminals clipped off, but that really is not noticeable when the harness is in place.  The process on the larger connectors involves unlocking  the terminal from the connector and sliding it out of the connector body.  I then clip off the old terminal, then strip a small part of the wire end and crimp on a new terminal.  I then slide that terminal into the new connector making sure I keep the same location.  It's easier that way.

 I don't think the headlight connectors are available at vintage connections so these were not changed, but these were in pretty good shape anyway since they are inside a cover.

Also, the fuseable link was pretty bad so I just re-created it with a new larger diam stranded wire.

1 hour ago, munters said:

 Vintage connectors sell this tools for the 6mm and 3mm connectors.

Will have to get one of those someday.  Just always used the Starretts. Thanks

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1 hour ago, motorman7 said:

......snipped..cjb......."Also, the fuseable link was pretty bad so I just re-created it with a new larger diam stranded wire."

????????   did you thus eliminate the useable link? ie.  re-created it  vs replaced it  ??

 

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That is an odd statement.  It, in essence, removes the fusible link, since a fusible link is a smaller diameter wire.

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16 minutes ago, Carl Beck said:

????????   did you thus eliminate the useable link? ie.  re-created it  vs replaced it  ??

 

Hi Carl, good to see you here!  I re-created the detachable portion. New connector, terminal and wire.    Installed new connector housing and cleaned the blade connection on the main harness side.  It's actually visible in the top harness picture except for the eyelet part is clipped off on the right side of the pic.  

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3 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

That is an odd statement.  It, in essence, removes the fusible link, since a fusible link is a smaller diameter wire.

Ahhhh....perhaps this is a part that needs to be bought then to get the correct wire gauge.  The old wire did not look very good....outer jacket was burned through in the middle and wire exposed.

Edited by motorman7

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4 minutes ago, motorman7 said:

Ahhhh....perhaps this is a part that needs to be bought then to get the correct wire gauge.  The old wire did not look very good....outer jacket was burned through in the middle and wire exposed.

It was working...

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4 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

It was working...

Yes, perhaps a little too hard.  Thanks for the feedback.  Will have to order that part then and shelve my pretty re-creation.

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32 minutes ago, motorman7 said:

Will have to order that part then and shelve my pretty re-creation.

http://www.zzxdatsun.com/catWiring.php

You would have found it Rich, but thought I'd give you a link to it.

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Started a little upholstery work.  Funny thing is that I actually enjoyed it.  Never thought I would say that about upholstery.  Of course,  I only did the easy stuff today.  Got the two bottom seat cushions done.  Also got the headliner in and the window frame foam.  Working with White, so need to keep the hands very clean. 

Seat cushion base was just $15 to powdercoat.....such a deal.

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Just an FYI - follow-up on Fusible Wire Lengths.  The Rule of Thumb is that you use a Fusible Wire that is 4 gauges smaller than the wiring you want to protect. So if your wiring is 14GA you would use an 18GA Fusible Wire link. Fusible Wires Lengths are Color Coded.   Good tips on Fusible Links on the AutoZone Web Page. Note the function of the insulation on them.

https://www.autozone.com/repairguides/Circuit-Protection/Fusible-Link/_/P-0900c1528026a7fd  

Edited by Carl Beck
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