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Duffy's 1/71 Series 1 240z build


duffymahoney

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Duffy,

Hope all is well. Please contact me directly at anwhiteford@att.net. Have a couple of basic wiring questions to the Haltech 750 ECU. Just need some confirmation before I turn the key.  

Thanks for your help. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Final touches on this new R35 coil bracket design. Next is laser cutting for final test fitment. Joseph Monti did a great job with this design, the boot angle was all his idea.  Previously the coil boots had a huge curve in them, which we both hated, this splits the difference (22.5 degrees).  I also disliked the coil head angle I had originally decided on.  This new coil head angle keeps the wiring nice and secured.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I figured out all my ITB issues. My fancy no contact tps sensor has this goofy huge 0 volt rest area. I had it clocked, but from 0-75% throttle the tps didn’t change at all. Then 75%-100% throttle it would move. Basically 0-1.1 volts at full throttle. 

So it would bounce .00-.15 volts and the ecu thought that was like 0-10% throttle. 

So clocked it 70 degrees. Starts around 2volts and goes to 4.3 volts. It’s super happy. Somehow this took forever to figure out. I can be so dumb. Now I can actually start to tune it.

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Well the day has finally come to use a heat shield. This is the one that came with my vintage SK ITB setup. How it installs originally didn’t protect my wiring to the firewall enough. So I shifted it down 2” and then slotted it. I hate the look of sheilds, but it was time.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Duffy,

Build looks awesome, great job. 

Working out ALL kinks on my EFI conversion is where I live right now. Our builds are similar but different. 

Did you experience any noise or magnetic issues messing with the Haltech 750 ECU connection? 

Running a single HEI coil, sequential fire distributor. All ignition components are resistor style (plugs and plugs wires) and continuity testing proved within spec. Engine starts and runs perfectly but the ECU will disconnect from the PC after a min or so, engine continues to run fine. I can reconnect while the engine is running, same result disconnect.

Added a Haltech CAN gauge in the dash the CAN will operate up to 1,000 RPM and then freezes. Will not come back up on until engine is shut off and ign switch is back to the on position. 

Much like your build the only wire spliced into the original harness is the black/white wire at the ign switch to the pink ignition wire to the Haltech harness. 

BTW- the stock 240z tach wiring in your log worked perfectly on this conversion as well. 

Where did you find the screens for your ITB horns? 

Thanks

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3 minutes ago, Blitzed said:

Hi Duffy,

Build looks awesome, great job. 

Working out ALL kinks on my EFI conversion is where I live right now. Our builds are similar but different. 

Did you experience any noise or magnetic issues messing with the Haltech 750 ECU connection? 

Running a single HEI coil, sequential fire distributor. All ignition components are resistor style (plugs and plugs wires) and continuity testing proved within spec. Engine starts and runs perfectly but the ECU will disconnect from the PC after a min or so, engine continues to run fine. I can reconnect while the engine is running, same result disconnect.

Added a Haltech CAN gauge in the dash the CAN will operate up to 1,000 RPM and then freezes. Will not come back up on until engine is shut off and ign switch is back to the on position. 

Much like your build the only wire spliced into the original harness is the black/white wire at the ign switch to the pink ignition wire to the Haltech harness. 

BTW- the stock 240z tach wiring in your log worked perfectly on this conversion as well. 

Where did you find the screens for your ITB horns? 

Thanks

The usb cable that came with my haltech would always crash.  I replaced it, and it don't have issues anymore.  Maybe try that first?  

 

Currently i have zero screens/ filters

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