For the rocker install:

1. Turn cam so that the problem lobe is up.
2. Install the lash pad.
3. Place the rocker beside the lowered adjuster and fit the other end into the lash pad.
4. Rotate the rocker toward the adjuster and try to lift its end up onto the adjuster's ball cap.
5. If the pressure is too much, you can stick a very large screw driver between the spring retainer and the cam. Pry the retainer down by using the cam body (not the lobe) as the fulcrum.

Obligatory WW image:

 

If she were a president, she'd be Baberham Lincoln.

Edited December 6, 20177 yr by 240260280

I just pulled apart a head and took photos for the above procedure. I'll post here tomorrow.

 

Lash pad is back-ordered for 3-4 weeks....oh well. I got time now that the snow is piling up outside right now. 

On 12/6/2017 at 10:22 PM, 240260280 said:

I just pulled apart a head and took photos for the above procedure. I'll post here tomorrow.

 

Here is a photo of how to pry valve down so that you can slide rocker in place or out:

 

So I ordered my lash pad from MSA (.170")....which was then backrordered...but now they said they no longer carry smaller than .175". Just my luck. Anyone have a 170? Or know where to get one? I don't want to change all 12 to 175 if I can help it. 

 

You can mill it down.  My cam kit came with all .190s.  They're getting scarce I guess but a machine shop could get it down to size.  Or for just one you may can get it down with a flat file.  Is it flat on bottom or have the dimple like the originals?

They are flat on the bottom. I supposed I could get the 175's and maybe have the metal shop here at work knock them down for me. 

 

As easy as they are to get off I'd take one with the new one to get exact size.  If you do get another intake or exhaust, whichever your replacing.  shouldn't be any problem but better safe than sorry. Cliff

This thread has been a wealth of great knowledge and great research. I hate to say developemment because the only developement being done is developing a smoother and more responsive engine. I find this thread interesting because before school lets out for the summer the plan is to install the SK 47mm triples on mine. This is actually the first thread where someone even remotely mentioned barometric pressure and density altitude in the testing, which are two very important calculations that should not be overloooked during testing of this type. Maybe this could be a factor with inconsistent readings. BLODI if your software will allow you to insert the current local altimeter setting before your next pull. Having done a road trip across the Rock Mtns with the SU's, the effect high elevation and thin air was drastic, almost to the point of causing starting difficulties and then the effect was reversed and performance returned the closer I got to Los Angeles, (sea level). Perhaps without the correct local barometer you are tuning IN & OUT of the window. JUST A THOUGHT. I had no idea what my baseline would be and your testing has narrowed the window for me. THANX, keep up the good work.

In

 

Edited January 12, 20187 yr by esmit208
Misspeling

 Agreed!  I've been reading this fantastic thread all along because I have/had a set of triple Webers, sold now so I'm out but still enjoy reading. 8^)

Blodi's observations and 240260280 (Blue) too and the way they figure things out amazes me.  Keep up the good work guys, maybe one day I'll have the confidence to buy another setup. 

You guys just read it for the Wayne's World pictures