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sweatybetty

sweatys rebuild

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On 9/5/2016 at 4:15 PM, Diseazd said:

Does anyone else think that those hone cuts look awfully big? I think if it were me, I'd have another machine shop do another hone cut.....wouldn't cost much....good insurance. BTW, I think you can still get Nissan 73 Pistons at your local dealer. The flat top without reliefs are NLA........and I also believe if I remember correctly, ITM pistons come fly cut for the L24 motors. SB.....can you look and see if the Pistons that came out are ITM or Nissan? And Siteunseen....can you take a pic of the chambers in that E88? Just curious. Love your dog....looks as crazy as my pooch;)

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Guy I'll get those photos ASAP.

"Crazy" is very kind way to describe mine, I normally use different words. LOL

He's almost a year old so I've got one more to go. He has recently figured out I'm the one that turns the door knobs. 180 from my female that passed away, not necessarily bad but completely different.

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Here's those pics.  I hope they make sense @Diseazd @madkaw

 

The later E88 has a straighter edge on the plug mound towards the intake valve, the best I can tell, it's the top one in this photo and has been shaved .040" by a machine shop, the dirty one is untouched early E88 with a bigger plug mound reducing the overall volume of the combustion chamber.

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Here are the stamps.  Later version has the sloppy looking E88, it's the cleaner one on top.  Notice how close the "NISSAN JAPAN" is after being cut by the machine shop compared to the lower dirty one.

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My E31.  Notice there is no overhanging material above the plug mounds like the E88 have.  I didn't grind that off, I think that is why the E31 has a higher CR than the E88s.

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Here's Nutty Buddy.  Waiting on a command from me.  The only one he can't seem to understand is "GET!".

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getting a few little odds and ends done. took the tail-light surrounds in for powder-coating. very tight wrinkle finish in flat black. i like it

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anyone know what this hole is for? there is one directly behind it also.

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i got the valve cover painted today. it came out looking pretty good. VHT wrinkle finish paint, and a redneck oven bake took about 2 hours. i didnt have an oven big enough for the cover, so why not put the oven under the valve cover! what ever works......

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end result

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new fuel pump block-off plate from 1/4'" aluminum ready for powder-coating

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Edited by sweatybetty
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The valve cover is rattle can? It looks fantastic.  Licence plate screw hole?

Please tell me there is a least jack stands on the front of your car and the parking brake is on, I can't even look at the pic without cringing. Sorry, it's none of my business.

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12 hours ago, grannyknot said:

The valve cover is rattle can? It looks fantastic.  Licence plate screw hole?

Please tell me there is a least jack stands on the front of your car and the parking brake is on, I can't even look at the pic without cringing. Sorry, it's none of my business.

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Edited by sweatybetty
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i hadn't noticed this until yesterday, but it looks like the pistons are right at .5mm out of the hole. this changes things a bit. i took the head in yesterday to have it checked and if everything is good, bigger valves installed. should find out next week.

im wondering what he PO had in mind when he had this block rebuilt.......

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The piston pop-up is normal.  About 020", or 0.5mm.  The observation crops up here and there, for stock engines.  Doesn't seem to be spec'ed out anywhere but many people see it.

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On 9/5/2016 at 8:16 AM, madkaw said:

More importantly I would measure deck height of Pistons . Unless they are waaayyyy out of the top of the block I would go with what ever cam you want. I'd say with reliefs you could go 550+


Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

what is waaayyy out? these are at .5mm

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13 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

The piston pop-up is normal.  About 020", or 0.5mm.  The observation crops up here and there, for stock engines.  Doesn't seem to be spec'ed out anywhere but many people see it.

this has me wondering about piston-valve clearance if i go with a higher lift cam. just trying to wrap my head around it all. sooner or later it will click

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My take on your cam question is based on the cam I had reground.  The lobes are much smaller now, almost round.  So I don't see how they could push any of the valves further down than stock. They just stay open longer.

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Not sure I agree with your explanation Cliff :)
There's guys running 500+ lift cams with flat tops with no issues.
Everything comes at a risk with performance parts . Things do get closer to clashing, but if installed correctly you should be okay. There are methods of measuring.
I actually shaved another .007 off my block so the Pistons are now .025 out of block- but I'm willing to take that risk ;)


Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

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so in the mean time while waiting on parts and stuff, i made a new alternator bracket and modified the tensioning strap. this is a 90 amp nipon-denso. car-quest #13185. i have one of these on my old power-wagon. it puts out 14+ volts at low rpm's

(650-700)

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Never mind.  I checked out some Google images.  Looks plenty.  Why'd you install it on the AC bracketry instead of the original spot?

Edited by Zed Head

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it was kind of cluttered there with the oil pump and radiator hose, and making a mount for this side was easier than modifying the original. and i like different

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i have been waiting on parts to get the work on the cylinder head finished, so in the meantime........

voltage regulator  mid 80's Chrysler

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temperature/oil psi gauges. i kind of like them here. i do trust mechanical over electric

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new flame thrower coil

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aluminum. gotta love it

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intake all cleaned up with new linkage, just looking for a home

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header sand-blasted, painted and wrapped. looking for a home

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pcv valve connection welded onto the header. we shall see if this works. i also plan on o2 sensors

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new differential straps. cost $6 for 6 feet of seatbelt material. the guy says this is good for around 2000 psi. we shall see

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getting ready to drop the engine back in place

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new centerforce clutch

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it has been a good week-end! getting a lot of little stuff done.

finally home again

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new ebay radiator

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$360 for the rad, shroud, fans and electric stuff. everything looks good so far. we shall see

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Looks good.  One thing you might want to consider....  Inphoto 2.JPG the last photo with the shroud installed I can see you have it bolted directly to the radiator.  The lip on the top will be metal to metal and eventually will damage the radiator.  Put some spacers in there.  I made mine out of fuel tubing.  You can see one in this photo:

 

 

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its there, just hard to see B) i put it on the edge of the shroud where it meets the tanks. no metal to metal contact

Edited by sweatybetty

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Haha! Like the diff straps! Reminds me that I'm still running the original "temporary" one I made up before ZCON.

I need to finish up that project and make a better one. At this point, I guess I'll just wait for the off season.

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1 hour ago, sweatybetty said:

its there, just hard to see B) i put it on the edge of the shroud where it meets the tanks. no metal to metal contact

Good idea!  I think you'll find that a good cooling setup.  You won't need the second fan much.  I actually took the fuse out when I was troubleshooting some alternator issues to reduce the load and never felt the need to put it back.  Some day I'm going to put it on  a thermostat.  

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