sweatybetty

sweatys rebuild

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    I am thinking the same.

    I was originally thinking of painting the bottom of the car on the rotisserie, then installing suspension etc before dropping it back on the ground to do the remainder of the body work etc. Looking at it now, it makes more sense to paint the entire interior and engine bay while on the rotisserie then dropping it down.

    Sweaty's pics look very encouraging!

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    I did it the latter way. Sound deadened the interior and underside after priming, then "jambed" the car out on the rack (interior, ceiling, under the car, cowl area, door jambs, door interiors, hatch interior areas and engine bay). I am still working on finish painting the suspension. Then run all the lines under the car add suspension then put it on the wheels. Do most of the assembly then  finish paint. That means less chance to mess up the fresh paint, hopefully...

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    18 hours ago, wheee! said:

    Very nice! Did you stand in the engine bay to get all the nooks and crannies or just lean in? So many hidden areas I am concerned on getting good coverage when I do mine.

    not with the paint but i did when doing the primer. not a good idea. i managed to hit the fresh primer with the hose and my backside a few times.

    with this paint, i did it from the outside. it was a pain, but i came out ok. the rest of the car should be a breeze!

    Edited by sweatybetty
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    12 hours ago, Patcon said:

     Do most of the assembly then  finish paint. That means less chance to mess up the fresh paint, hopefully...

    i have been debating that very thing. i think im going to paint all the parts and then assemble. probably get some scratches and chips, but they can be fixed.

    my biggest worry is getting the majority of the car painted before it gets warm and the bugs start waking up.

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    I have a plastic paint booth sort of like you have with a fan and filter set up so bugs aren't normally a problem. I don't want to paint the car in pieces because I have been told the shading may not be right if I don't lay down the same amount of paint on all the panels. Since I don't paint a lot I have a better shot at painting the car assembled so the variations from panel to panel are minimized. So the car will be 90% complete when I spray the outside...

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    had a good day today

    for some reason, photobucket isnt letting me post links

    base coat first 3 pics, then clear. i do have a bit of dust that will need to be taken care of, but after that it is going to look pretty sweet.

     

     

     

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    Edited by sweatybetty
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    You did good! It's hard to do much better than that in a homemade booth. Because you just can't get it clean enough after doing body work. I am sure it will clean up and be perfect after some light polishing

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    its been a good weekend to be sweaty  :D:D

    first pic is the base and the second is the clear. i didnt get much dust at all today, but my clear has a little orange peel. i think it will sand out just fine

     

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    3 hours ago, charliekwin said:

    Nice work!  I'm so jealous of you guys with big garages :)

    thank you! my shop isnt really that big. the draped off portion is only 16x32. behind the plastic is another 8x32. i hope to build a new pole barn in the next couple of years. if i can, it'll be 60x40

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    Orange peel is another challenge for the DIY painter. We don't normally have the equipment or experience to avoid it. You can run a little more pressure so it atomizes better but you use more material when you do. We also don't tend to have professional level guns that lay down a better finish. The best thing to do is  lay down an extra coat or two of clear and wet sand it out.

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    6 minutes ago, Patcon said:

    Orange peel is another challenge for the DIY painter. We don't normally have the equipment or experience to avoid it. You can run a little more pressure so it atomizes better but you use more material when you do. We also don't tend to have professional level guns that lay down a better finish. The best thing to do is  lay down an extra coat or two of clear and wet sand it out.

    the tech sheet called for 2 coats. thats why i put on 3 ;)

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    Just be careful when you polish around sharp edges and details (door waste crease, door bottom, hood bulge). You can protect them with tape until you get the big areas done

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    hello all. i am now concentrating on things other than paint. wiper linkage was junk, but has now been fixed. if you would like details send me a pm. here are a couple of pics

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    Sweaty,

    Great thread.  Keep up the good work, I am definitely checking back in on this one.

    Clay

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    yesterday i started to repaint the brake booster and found that it had a leak. so a tear-down of that and some new paint and good as new! the hardest part was getting it opened up. once that was done, a couple of cans of brake cleaner, some sand blasting time, and everything looked like new

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    here is the rubber diaphragm the leak was between it and the black "piston"

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    a little black silicone sealer and the leak is fixed

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    all back together and fresh paint. i also added a vacuum check valve, this way i can eliminate the in-line factory valve. it is kind of hard to see, but it is on the lower right where the hose fitting was

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    Edited by sweatybetty
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    Did you check vacuum on the booster after rebuilding it? Many times the leaks is in the fold at the bottom of the booster. It is caused by brake fluid leaking into the booster from the master cylinder and degrading the rubber. Also were the seals around the center pushrods good. I have attempted similar fixes with mixed results. I found reassembly easier if you apply pressure to both halves, like in a vise or press before trying to rotated the upper half

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    1 hour ago, Patcon said:

    Did you check vacuum on the booster after rebuilding it? Many times the leaks is in the fold at the bottom of the booster. It is caused by brake fluid leaking into the booster from the master cylinder and degrading the rubber. Also were the seals around the center pushrods good. I have attempted similar fixes with mixed results. I found reassembly easier if you apply pressure to both halves, like in a vise or press before trying to rotated the upper half

    i did check it. 100 times better! the rubber was in great condition, and i had a new rubber seal for the pushrod. i did apply a bead of the silicone around the outer rim before putting it back together and used those bar clamps to hold everything in place. i do believe that there needs to be a small amount of leakage on the brake pedal side to allow the pedal to come back up. what i found is that when you press the pedal, it moves maybe a 1/16th of an inch before contacting the "piston" i think there is a rubber seal in there that seals when you press and opens when you let off. there is also a felt washer in there that i think is to make it quiet. im not 100% sure, but i think thats how it works.

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    I hope it works good for you. This is one of the parts I come across all the time that's needs replacing but the rebuild parts aren't really available. It would be nice if a DIY approach could be developed. You can buy them remanufactured but that is suspect too. The little early booster is sort of unobtainium now, so rebuilding is your only option for a purest...

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