New Fuel Tank

[Bonzi Lon]

Part number for the O-Ring is 17342-18000.

 

Bonzi Lon

[EuroDat]

If decided to try and get my sending u it working properly if possible. I am looking for the resistance specs. Just a quick check and I seem to be getting readings from 140 down to 16. Not sure if the higher resistance is full or empty setting. Any help finding resistance numbers would be great. Unit looks a little rough but may just need a little cleaning.

Thanks.

The higher resistance is the full reading. It seems high IIRC mine was something like 90ohm and the low reading was a little under 10ohm. It should be in the fsm in the body electrical or fuel and exhaust. Im on a smartphone so I can't look it up atm.

[bhermes]

Got it. I have a copy of the fsm and will check. I thought I remembered 90 to 10 but wasn't sure. I will try and clean up and maybe the resistance will drop.

I will check on getting the o ring.

Thanks.

[EuroDat]

I think I might have some photo's on my tablet somewhere otherwise I have them at home. Mine was in a shocking state. I wanted to buy a new one, but the price was 4 times that for a 240Z. I removed the protection clip on shield and cleaned it with a toothbrush. It didn't make the resistance any better or worse.

The problem was in the end of the wiper arm that contacts the resistance wire. The little round ball section was loose and had extra resistance. I was so happy I found my wonky fuel gauge problem and ball fell out and I lost it. 30 minutes searching and after saying several beep words I was ready to give up on it and buy a new one.

As a last resort I use the end of a pop rivit nail and soldered it in the wiper arm.

It now works ok now.

I calibrated it by filling the tank in steps.

Started filling it until I could suck fuel out the pump outlet through a clear hose. Used a foot pump for pumping up and deflating air beds and stuff to keep sucking until fuel came out.

Then played with the arm and lower tab to get it reading E on the guage. Also checking the it would also reach the full position.

Filled it with five liters and adjusted the sensor for the low fuel warning light.

Filled the tank with jerry cans until it was full. It was full before the last 6-8 liters went in. That was ok, empty was more important for me.

Ill post some photo's when I find them.

Chas

[bhermes]

Found spec in FSM in FE section.  States between 10-80 ohms when dry/no fuel.  I think I also read that it should read 32 ohms when half full but not sure.

 

I am going to try and clean and see if resistance values decrease.  I will also look at advice above if soldering is needed.

 

I found one for sale in my area which is rare for $25.  Not sure if it works either but will be checking this weekend with a meter.

 

If both end up working I will have one for sale soon if anyone is in need.

 

Thanks.

[bhermes]

Finally got everything back together but car will not start. Turning over no fuel I think. If I reversed the wires to the pump would it not work?

Thanks.

[siteunseen]

On the original pumps the post are different sizes to prevent switching poles. If you have them backwards on an aftermarket pump it would seem to me it would reverse the flow. Just guessing.

I would pull the inlet line off the filter in the engine bay and see if gas shoots out. Maybe put in a gas can, 30psi coming out would be dangerous.

[ramsesosirus]

Don't forget that most shops will remove the in-tank "screen" when cleaning a tank.  (depending on the year) 

Mine was completely rusted shut, therefore causing my car to die often. (they showed me the part they cut out)  I think they have to cut it out, it's not replaceable or anything.  I just added a G3 filter between the tank and pump, my replacement fuel pump had no inlet screen.  No problems with car dying since doing this.