Timing cover removal without head removal?

[Patcon]

That's my kind of home décor!! I should see if my wife is good with me static displaying my triples in the living room. I bet she would go for it. Hmmmmmm????

Edited April 30, 2015 by Patcon

[Careless]

The timing cover is located on the block by two pins. Once you remove the necessary bolts, the cover must move forward about 1/4 " to free it from the pins.

BTW I strongly suggest you remove the water pump first. Several bolts on the pump actually go through the timing chain cover and bolt into the block. Looking at the pump from the front, the 6mm bolt at 11 o'clock is actually 75mm long. Being super long, it is subject to corrosion and freezing in position. On my engine, this bolt snapped off.

If the belly pan is off, all the better. If not, loosen its bolts enough to separate the pan gasket before removing the timing cover. Most timing cover gasket sets include a replacement section for the belly pan gasket.

All this said, the die cast finish is a smooth dull gray and apt to stain. During my overhaul, no amount of degreasing would remove the stains. Polishing would remove the stain but changed the surface finish. In the end I decided to paint it with Duplicolor high temp engine enamel in Cast Coat Aluminum DE1650. It doesn't match the original dull gray, looks more like a modern aluminum casting.

My overhaul goal was preservation as opposed to restoration, so your project may demand a different solution.

 

The engine has been completely overhauled, it was just painted with the silver paint.

I don't like the silver engine enamel because it turns yellow and flakes off. If I do pull the covers, I am going to have the aluminum vapor blasted and then I will treat them with sharkhide metal protectant. It will stay looking OE for at least a decade.

 

I would love to soda-blast in house, as I do have the equipment for it in my garage, but the place where this engine is located is not "media blast" friendly. there are too many other items in the shop, and I would not be able to get all the baking soda out of the engine.

 

Anyone who has soda blasted knows it gets everywhere... and it's not a good idea to do it near an assembled engine.... I could give it a shot, but I'm not sure if I want to go through that mess.

[siteunseen]

If the valve cover is painted the same as the front cover, take it off and test it outside.  The soda blasting might not give the results you're looking for.

[Careless]

Found someone who does vapor blasting that is somewhat "local".

 

When I send some items out, I will let you guys know of my experience- but here's the type of finish achieved:

 

BEFORE: 

 

 

 

AFTER:

 

 

 

Basically folds over the pores, rather than opening them with dry abrasive blasting. Soda blasting is close, but not quite the same. This comes out nearly "as cast". Similar to the inside of the timing cover. We'll see how she goes!