Jump to content

wheee!

1976 280Z Restoration Project

Recommended Posts

I think the 280z drive shaft flange is square no? If so, you need to swap the companion flange from the 280z diff onto the 3.9 r200 diff. That's what I did for my car.

 

 

Also, if you are thinking about media blasting your car, you gotta be careful going too hard because it will heat and warp the sheet metal on your car.  My car had so much bondo and crap on it, they had to take the remaining material off by hand.

 

If I were to do my car again, I would get it acid dipped....

 

I will check the companion flange. It may not be the same as your 260 though...

 

As for the blasting, I was thinking of doing soda blasting on sheet metal surfaces like hood and fenders and media (crushed glass etc) on more hidden structures like frame and engine bay.

 

Dipping is great, but I have strong fears that not all the solution would be removed from the vehicle and it would start to eat my paint after the car was finished. How do you prevent it from creeping out of seams etc? Can it be totally neutralized? Makes me nervous...

 

 

Sorry I missed this.  Yes, it should if the 3.9 came from a 280ZX NA engine.  The turbo cars with the "Borg Warner" transmission, used the 300ZX bolt pattern I believe, which won't work, but the NA pattern will.  The spline pattern and size of the slip yoke (the part that fits the trans.) is the same for all NA transmissions, way up in to the 1990 cars (71C transmissions)..

 

As I said, I have both a square and round flange differential in my garage.  One 1976, one 1978.  I've had them both in my car with the same driveshaft.

 

 

The 3.90 came from a NA 280ZX, correct.That is great news about the spline shaft! I have also heard that changing the flange is just a personal preference versus a necessity. The bolt pattern is the same.

 

Thanks for the input guys!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have all the tools you are talking about but would never attempt to straighten my own car. The frame rack gives a great datum line to work off of and has zero flex. So when you pull or push against it the measurements are correct. The welds you put into the car to do floorboards or sheet metal repairs are harder than the original metal. It is probably best to get the car checked and straight then do one side at a time. Be sure to put the transmission crossmember in so the tunnel doesn't move on you. I commented on how I did my floor boards on another thread. When they were done they looked factory. At the moment I don't recall which thread and am too tired to figure it out... ;)

C

This an old scool frame rack.

 

It gives you an idea of what is involved.

 

Casey

post-20199-0-54489800-1425351198_thumb.j

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Quick correction: engine was rebuilt in 92/93 by PO and his father. Changed it in original post too.

 

I'm hoping to get more details on what that entailed prior to my tearing it down.


Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

Edited by wheee!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Confirmed the build date today too. Apparently there was a change in the production run in 1976...

 

post-29917-0-93423400-1425514320_thumb.j

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Was disappointed to learn the remanufactured alternator was still an externally regulated version. Oh well. I will buy a new one with internal regulator.

3dccf8fcad53a838be13fda766d1eb89.jpg

Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just ordered EuroDats fuel and clutch line rubber insulator kit! These are getting harder to source, might as well get it now...

Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No where on the same level as your first start video, but i sure feel better knowing the major mechanical systems are all functioning before teardown.

The only system not giving me a reading was temp sensor and I didn't get a chance to check the electrical connection. Car stayed at around 1700 rpm at idle so some minor issues there. Heater controls, clock, voltmeter, alternator, lights etc all worked. Wiper motor struggled to move but failed so it probably needs some love too. All in all I have a solid baseline now.

Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did detect a small fuel leak on the fuel rail near an injector hose. That again is not big deal as I will probably install a pallnet rail during the rebuild.

Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just received my rubber insulator kit from Chas in the Netherlands! Thanks Chas!

 

msg-25317-0-24220300-1426187378.jpg

Edited by wheee!
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was hoping it would come with some awesome black licorice too but instead Chas sent me a nice engine inspection light lens as a bonus. What an upstanding gentleman he is!

Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yup. I bought a sandblasting cabinet and I will be ordering a caswell plating system soon. All the hardware will be redone in copycad.

Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Things are getting closer to teardown!

 

The gas line was installed to the garage yesterday which means I can insulate and finish the interior walls, install the furnace, and plumb the ductwork for the downdraft paint booth!

 

so excited!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

More progress...

Furnace in position.

ec85cec4c1038a51f6bdc8f7b6b4f48c.jpg

Lower in-line ventilation fan for down draft paint booth installed. Upper unit this weekend.

c609525aad7f64eeffcb931219f25a11.jpg

Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Paint booth??? Sweet! Do you do your own painting i assume?

I will be! This is a total project for me. I want to do as much as I can. I have taken a couple of classes on Autobody and paint and I am not afraid of the learning curve. The secret is patience and elbow grease! LOL

Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Hats off to you my friend!

 

Thanks Matt!

 

Looks pretty hardcore mark! Looking forward to see your progress

 

Soon.... Very soon...!

 

Speaking of progress... Where's your's at????

Edited by wheee!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My car is running and moving under its own power now. almost there. Sorting out all the gremlins.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Who's Online   15 Members, 0 Anonymous, 80 Guests (See full list)

  • Search Engine Meta Tags:
    classic, z, datsun, 240z, 260z, 280z, zcar, zed, s30, classiczcars.com, 240z.org, fairlady, 240, 260, 280, nissan, 240 z, 260 z, 280 z, zx, turbo, classic z, 280z cars, cars 240z, car forums, datsun, nissan, cars datsun, car club, 280zx, car, nissan zcar, classic z car,performance,300zx, car years, car raced, texas 350z, 300z, 350z, nissan racing , clubs car, zcca, club datsun
×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.