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1972 240z Stalling after a few minutes of driving.


mckennar

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I'm experiencing the same exact issues with stalling and braking. Just thought i'd chime in to offer my help as i troubleshoot and figure it out.

On mine, there are some plugs in the intake and the car is pretty modded up so it could be anything.

My first assumption was fuel, the electric pump died and i replaced it as well as the filter and the filter before the mechanical pump. I'm going to drain the tank and go from there.

The vacuum leak idea is good though, i'll have to check that out but like you said, mine idles really well so i don't think that's the culprit.

I'll have to see how my brake booster responds to what you did to yours as well.

Update - blew out the lines w/compressed air, drained and filled the tank, replaced the brand new fuel filter with another brand new fuel filter... drove 3 miles, stalled again. Waited 10 minutes, drove 1.5 miles, stalled. Waited 10 minutes, drove 1.5 miles, baaaaarely got it into my driveway and it stalled again.

I'm thinking I have about 20 different issues to tackle, not the least of which are vac leaks, exhaust leaks, etc. Realized these things have power brakes yet I have to apply about 80lbs of force on the pedal in order to initiate braking. Thought it was like my Demon and '66 Mustang w/o power assist brakes. Guess not. Applied shop vac to master vac, magically brakes became easier to press (engine off). Started engine and put my thumb in the line to the master vac, it barely had any suction at idle at all. All signs are pointing to a massive vac leak... which is weird because it idles rock solid at 500-600rpm when warm. I must have missed something when I pulled the air injection equipment.

I'll update this thread when I get this thing running properly.

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Mine ideled great in the garage but when I got away from home, too close to call a wrecker, It would quit. I could change out the filter up front and blow back through the supply line and it would get me home. It is a '72 tank that was crusted with crap. I took the sending unit out 1st, get your tank below half full, and it was rusted pretty bad. So I put a camera in the hole and barely could see rust in the picture. Dropped the tank and couldn't beleive what was there. You could stick a magnetic parts picker upper in there and probably get some thing but most of the 12 ounces in mine wouldn't stick to the magnet, CRUD.

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Edited by siteunseen
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Wow, that's nuts. I just got a usb boreoscope so i'll be having some fun with that. i'm about to drain the tank and go from there but i think it's still almost full so we'll see. Probably wont complete it today.

Did you re-seal the tank, get a shop to do it or just scrap the tank and get a new one? I'm not sure what will be the best rout for me if i do find a bunch of crap in mine.

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Did you re-seal the tank, get a shop to do it or just scrap the tank and get a new one? I'm not sure what will be the best rout for me if i do find a bunch of crap in mine.

I dropped mine and cleaned it then coated with Red Kote, replaced all the hoses to the evap tank too. It was a jobbie job!

Here's the thread, half is the tank work the other half is about our shoes, we have fun on here.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/funnybone/52471-developing-story.html

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  • 1 month later...

@siteunseen & SheWantsTheZ, I wanted to update / close out this thread with the conclusion:

Bit the bullet, drained & dropped the tank and while not quite as bad as yours, it was by far the absolute worst I've ever seen on a running car. Anyways, long story short, sent the tank out to be cleaned and re-sealed. Put it back in a few weeks ago, replaced both of the vent lines while I was at it and what a difference! I've driven over 200 miles so far and no stalling, no high idle, nothing. Runs like a top.

So, bottom line, if repeated blow-outs of the fuel lines and in-line filter changes don't do it for you, bite the bullet, drop the tank and clean it out.

Many thanks to everyone here for making that suggestion.

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  • 2 years later...

I'm going to revive this topic 3 years later lol....

So, thanks to some of the forum's heavy hitters, I was able to get my 240 awake and out of the garage. I'm now having the exact same problem. 

Only difference is, I'm running a 2 gallon gas can as my fuel source for the time being until I can get the tank dropped and cleaned. I've replace all of the rubber lines up front, adjusted the bowls, etc. I was thinking it could be due to a vacuum leak of some sort. Any ideas?

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1 hour ago, kayinsunz said:

It's running great actually. I adjusted the floats (again) and it hasn't stalled out yet, I think the needles were closing to early. I'm going to keep toying with the carbs and see, in the mean time I'll drop the tank

I see that link in my post #30 is unavailable now for some reason. When we went to the waaay better version Mike's got now somethings didn't make it. No big deal I still have all my photos and remember the threads that were most helpful. 

We're supposed to get some much needed rain on Monday.  If so I'll be able to spend some time on my laptop and can, hopefully, put up some helpful info and tips/tricks that helped me out a lot. That is a weekend job and the tank liner should be allowed a week to cure. It's a PITA but if you do it right you'll never have to worry about again.

Cliff

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3 minutes ago, kayinsunz said:

What do people usually use to coat it after cleaning it? I'm assuming some sort of rust prev coating from an aresol can.. If so, how do they coat it?

thanks

Real basic run through.

Clean it with hardware store muratic acid. Rinse with denatured alcohol.  Pour in a quart of red kote tank liner. Let it sit until you can't smell the chemicals, cured. Replace the evap hoses during that week. Reinstall the tank.

Google "red kote instructions" and read that to sorta see what to do. Cost me $100 for everything. $50 on chemicals and another $50 for evap hoses and clamps. I already had the plastic retainers you'll need to replace the interior panels in the hatch. $10 from Nissan. Have the part numbers for those too. Takes my local dealership a couple of days to get them.

I'll be more thorough with my next post. 8^)

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in addition to sites advice

make sure all the solid lines coming out of the tank are clear of rust. the main fuel line on my tank was 90% plugged. i used a short piece of 1/8" aircraft cable chucked up in a cordless drill to clear the crap out

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On 6/18/2017 at 5:40 PM, kayinsunz said:

What do people usually use to coat it after cleaning it? I'm assuming some sort of rust prev coating from an aresol can.. If so, how do they coat it?

thanks

Sorry I'm a little behind but I did find the threads that should cover all my "Tips" :D

If I can help in any way let me know.  Cliff

PS, here's some more on cleaning the tank.  A lot of reading but it's best to be prepared, acid and the red-kote are time sensitive so get a plan together and write it down.  Four empty 5 gallon buckets and some baking soda added to your list.

 

Edited by siteunseen
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