First off this is really long but please read, I need some help figuring out whats next.

OK so this whole mess started out in october when I first took over the Z fighting and fighting to get it running right it ran decent when it was first brought back from slumber. But I had bad tank issues which soon caused it to not run at all, then that led to a carb rebuild, and no matter what I couldn't get it to run right, run yes but never consistently, could barely make it up the driveway missed like hell and couldn't stay running with the choke on. And fouled back plugs in minutes, and the rest in hours. Seeing as it fouled the back plugs so quick I figured carb adjustment issue. So I started turning little carb screws trying to get it at least a little better, but it had no effect at all. So I got a better look at the points and they were black and green with corrorsion and burning. Finally got the new ones in today, start her up and she fires right up starts out around 1500 rpm then jumps up to between 2500-3000 rpm but one things she is actually running, and no misses, never ran like this before, not right but worlds better, you know when something is different and when its finally fixed even if its still not right. Ao I'm exstatic I know this was it, it was points this whole time. Now when I. Open up the choke idle drops a little but now I've got popping in the exhaust, and a consistent fireball out the exhaust. I set the the points at 0.19, I don't have a timing light and I've never set timing. I'm think either reset the point at a different gap, or maybe I screwed up the carb adjustment when chasing issues. But would that make it idle like this? If you read te whole thing, thank you, I could really use some help figuring out the next step.

then that led to a carb rebuild, ...

So I started turning little carb screws trying to get it at least a little better, but it had no effect at all. ...

Finally got the new ones in today, start her up and she fires right up starts out around 1500 rpm then jumps up to between 2500-3000 rpm but one things she is actually running,

Open up the choke idle drops a little but now I've got popping in the exhaust, and a consistent fireball out the exhaust. I set the the points at 0.19, I don't have a timing light and I've never set timing. ...

I'm think either reset the point at a different gap, or maybe I screwed up the carb adjustment when chasing issues.

You might have made the common mistake of adjusting things you weren't sure about without recording where the starting point was. Now you can't go back to where things were before you rebuilt the carbs and installed the points. You really need to start from scratch on both now. Borrow a timing light (and dwell meter if you can) and set the timing correctly, then tune the carburetors. There is most likely no single magic thing that you can do to get the engine running right.

At least the engine runs so that you can be in tuning mode instead of troubleshooting.

Yeah thats kinda where I'm at now. I was getting desperate to get it run right so I started scfewing with things I shouldn't have. Where do you keep your points set at when you have them?

What car are you trying to set the points on? Your profile says you have a 260Z. That car didn't have points in a stock configuration.

When you're finished with the electrical, adjust the valves & go through the basic carb cleaning, testing & tuning procedures. If you're not experienced with SUs, don't be afraid of them. They are the simplest carb I've ever worked on & you'll love the feeling of accomplishment when you're done. A quick compression test will set your mind at ease if you think it could be internal problems. Don't get discouraged, we all started out this way, these are learning experiences.

Mark in Portland.

What car are you trying to set the points on? Your profile says you have a 260Z. That car didn't have points in a stock configuration.

She's a very early 260z so still has points, I had to order points for a 240 tp get the right ones. She has dual DGVs the back one is fully rebuilt the front seems ok for now. Both need adjusted. Does anyone which way does what on the mixture screw of a weber DGV?

Interesting, I've never heard of that configuration. Go to the 73 FSM and get the gap & dwell settings out of the EE section.

Factory gap is 0.45 to 0.55 mm

Dwell is 35 to 41 degrees (manual) or 33 to 39 degrees (auto)

You'll need a tach/dwell meter to adjust the points properly in addition to feeler gauges. Here is the one I have Actron CP7605 Dwell/Tachometer/Voltmeter Analyzer : Amazon.com : Automotive

By the way, could you post a picture of the passenger kick panel area? I'm curious what it looks like. Also, what is the build date of your car?

I was actually wondering how to determine build date. I have a ten K dixco tach laying around if I could use that as a dwell meter. I'll post a pic of that for you, I think I'll have to thumb through both FSMs tonight and get to adjusting some stuff.

The build date should be on the plate on the driver's side door jamb.

I've got a set of DGVs at home. I'll look tonight and get back to you. Typically tightening the mixture screws will lean them out.

Mark in Portland