On ‎3‎/‎17‎/‎2018 at 1:16 PM, siteunseen said:

I know if I leave my choke lever pulled back overnight the bowls empty until the level gets even with the nozzle's top.

I'm sure you probably already know why this happens, but just in case...

There are no real seals on the seam between the nozzle and the cylinder in which it slides up and down in the carb body. You don't really need a seal there as long as it's a good precision fit. Sure, it'll leak a tiny amount of air up through that seam when the engine is running, but not enough to matter.

Also, under normal circumstances, that seam never sees liquid fuel. But if the bowl level is high enough, and the nozzles are pulled down far enough, that seam will be exposed to liquid fuel. And it's not meant to be liquid tight. If there isn't engine vacuum to pull that fuel up, it'll leak down (as you found out).

Natural gas water heater?

On 17/3/2018 at 1:17 PM, Mark Maras said:

@jalexquijano Where are your mixture screws now and how is it running?

rear and front carbs at 3.5 turns clockwise.  Should i keep on closing the gap between the float and lid by bending the tang a little more? First 3 pictures are related to the rear carb, the last 2 to the front carb.

Edited March 19, 20187 yr by jalexquijano

13 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Natural gas water heater?

Yes!  It's a little scary some mornings when I first go down stairs.  I'm going electric when that one needs replacing but gas is so much cheaper and HOTTER. 

I need it air tight to keep out the humidity I'm fighting for about another $50 a month on the power bill.  My neighbor says a dehumidifier is nothing but a backwards air conditioner?  One day I'll be taking my weekly morning shower and the water heater will fire up and BOOM!

The front carb looks right to me considering they're 3.5 turns down and he's telling you 2.5 turns down.  I see a little overflow that would go away at 2.5.

4 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

The front carb looks right to me considering they're 3.5 turns down and he's telling you 2.5 turns down.  I see a little overflow that would go away at 2.5.

This is a picture of the level using clear sight tubes for the front carb.

Me thinks you got that one, congratulations. 

I would put that one to bed, in the winner's box, knocked out, homerun, touchdown!

 

17 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

Me thinks you got that one, congratulations. 

I would put that one to bed, in the winner's box, knocked out, homerun, touchdown!

 

Now this is the rear one at idle which i think still needs more bending of the tang. However i could be wrong.

Looks low to me but it's hard to tell looking at pictures of that one but if you're at 3.5 turns down there should be visible fuel on top of the nozzle.

15 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

Looks low to me but it's hard to tell looking at pictures of that one but if you're at 3.5 turns down there should be visible fuel on top of the nozzle.

 

@jalexquijano I agree with Cliff. Raise the fuel level in the rear carb to the same level as the front carb. Reset the mixture screws to 2 1/2 turns, check to be sure that fuel isn't pooling on top of the nozzles and drive it. When the engine is warm, if the engine seems like it lacks power under acceleration, SLOWLY pull the choke while accelerating. If the fuel mixture was too lean, adding choke will richen up the mixture and you'll feel the performance boost under acceleration. If adding a little choke improves performance, drop the mixture screws 1/2 turn and try it again.

@siteunseen Tick tock, tick tock! Time keeps on slip'n, slip'n, slip'n, into the future. Fly like an eagle.

So should i take out the rear float lid and bend the tang some more narrowing the gap between the float lid and the float?

 Yes. Then start it up, shut it down and check the fuel levels again in both carbs at 2 1/2 turns to be sure the fuel level isn't too high and pooling on top of the nozzles.